Dyno results!
12-20-2005, 05:48 AM
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Dyno results!
Ok guys now I'm upset. I was expecting to see somewhere near 430-450fwhp.
Hyper Power Dynamometer
CO set at 3.7%
Ambient correction :3%
Room temperature about 30 degrees celcius
1st run
a/f:14.294@6189rpm
367.4fwhp@5747rpm
483nm@4721rpm
2nd run
a/f:14.266@6168rpm
369.2fwhp@5731rpm
479nm@4887rpm
3rd run
a/f:14.016@6113rpm
I turned up the Andial FEC to the last/5th step as I am running to lean but still got 14.016
375.1fwhp@5871rpm
491nm@4815rpm
Now I know for a fact that this dyno is very accurate as 2 of my freinds dynoed their stock mk2 GT3's and they both got between 370-380fwhp which is what the factory claims on paper.
Now as we can see I am running way too lean, will turning up my CO to lets say 4% bring it down to the low 12's for the a/f? Or do I have to just go EFI or fuel head mod? I rather just turn up the CO and run safely for now. Pls advise.
Will post dyno charts tomorrow as my scanner is at work and I'm home now.
Hyper Power Dynamometer
CO set at 3.7%
Ambient correction :3%
Room temperature about 30 degrees celcius
1st run
a/f:14.294@6189rpm
367.4fwhp@5747rpm
483nm@4721rpm
2nd run
a/f:14.266@6168rpm
369.2fwhp@5731rpm
479nm@4887rpm
3rd run
a/f:14.016@6113rpm
I turned up the Andial FEC to the last/5th step as I am running to lean but still got 14.016
375.1fwhp@5871rpm
491nm@4815rpm
Now I know for a fact that this dyno is very accurate as 2 of my freinds dynoed their stock mk2 GT3's and they both got between 370-380fwhp which is what the factory claims on paper.
Now as we can see I am running way too lean, will turning up my CO to lets say 4% bring it down to the low 12's for the a/f? Or do I have to just go EFI or fuel head mod? I rather just turn up the CO and run safely for now. Pls advise.
Will post dyno charts tomorrow as my scanner is at work and I'm home now.
12-20-2005, 07:59 AM
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Since you are running your car on a chassis dyno, your numbers should be listed in rwhp, not fwhp, right?
What I'm saying is are you sure you've got that right? There's really no way for a chassis dyno like that to compute an accurate fwhp because each type of car's drivetrain loss is going to be different.
If you look at your dyno sheets and it says 367-375 rwhp, I'd say you are doing quite well (although lean).
But I just can't imagine that dyno would be printing out numbers for you that would calculate fwhp. Sure, it could give an estimate, but each car's drive train loss is different.
I'm also assuming that in Singapore, like the U.S. that fwhp=flywheel hp, and rwhp=rear wheel hp.
What brand of dyno - looks like a Mustang Dyno.
Brian
What I'm saying is are you sure you've got that right? There's really no way for a chassis dyno like that to compute an accurate fwhp because each type of car's drivetrain loss is going to be different.
If you look at your dyno sheets and it says 367-375 rwhp, I'd say you are doing quite well (although lean).
But I just can't imagine that dyno would be printing out numbers for you that would calculate fwhp. Sure, it could give an estimate, but each car's drive train loss is different.
I'm also assuming that in Singapore, like the U.S. that fwhp=flywheel hp, and rwhp=rear wheel hp.
What brand of dyno - looks like a Mustang Dyno.
Brian
12-20-2005, 08:57 AM
#6
It is possible that "fwhp" = four wheel, because that looks like a 4 wheel Mustang. Looks like those numbers are wheel numbers.
Did you hear secondhand from your 380 fwhp GT3 buddy? Or did you see the sheet?
You really CANNOT run full load on the dyno at 14.2 on an airhead 930 once - doing it 3 times is unthinkable.
You are going to be removing your piston rings with a chisel and muratic acid.
Did you hear secondhand from your 380 fwhp GT3 buddy? Or did you see the sheet?
You really CANNOT run full load on the dyno at 14.2 on an airhead 930 once - doing it 3 times is unthinkable.
You are going to be removing your piston rings with a chisel and muratic acid.
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12-20-2005, 10:27 AM
#8
Rennlist Lifetime Member
WHOA!! You are WAAY out of fuel. I would suggest backing the boost down today and not run it again until you know where you are at. At 14 anything you are going to melt that engine. You should never see more than mid 12s, maybe and that is a big maybe on race gas.
12-20-2005, 11:14 AM
#9
Burning Brakes
Join Date: May 2005
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OMG - and it still runs.
Just think what it would do with correct amount of fuel to the cylinders.
Sameer - no boost for you! You need to adjust the WUR before anything else. Brent930 or I can help you get more fuel before you do ANYTHING else. You MUST have a fuel pressure test kit before you start.
Just think what it would do with correct amount of fuel to the cylinders.
Sameer - no boost for you! You need to adjust the WUR before anything else. Brent930 or I can help you get more fuel before you do ANYTHING else. You MUST have a fuel pressure test kit before you start.
12-20-2005, 11:33 AM
#10
Race Car
Thread Starter
Guys,
Thanks and yes I'm running way to lean. Tomorrow I'm going to turn up the CO to 5%. I dont mind running rich below but just want to make sure I dont lean out top end. What do you guys think? Is jumping up from 3.7% CO to 5% CO going to make a lot of difference? Than afterwhich I will dyno it again.
I'm pretty sure the readings are accurate because both the mk2 gt3 owners I know personally and they showed me their charts last week. Both cars are stock and produced between 370-380 fwhp which is what the factory says it should. So the dyno is pretty accurate.
Thanks and yes I'm running way to lean. Tomorrow I'm going to turn up the CO to 5%. I dont mind running rich below but just want to make sure I dont lean out top end. What do you guys think? Is jumping up from 3.7% CO to 5% CO going to make a lot of difference? Than afterwhich I will dyno it again.
I'm pretty sure the readings are accurate because both the mk2 gt3 owners I know personally and they showed me their charts last week. Both cars are stock and produced between 370-380 fwhp which is what the factory says it should. So the dyno is pretty accurate.
12-20-2005, 11:56 AM
#11
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by Sameer
I'm pretty sure the readings are accurate because both the mk2 gt3 owners I know personally and they showed me their charts last week. Both cars are stock and produced between 370-380 fwhp which is what the factory says it should. So the dyno is pretty accurate.
12-20-2005, 12:04 PM
#12
Race Car
Thread Starter
What I also dont understand is that why should I be running lean with the Andial FEC turned to the last step and CO at 3.7% when all I have is bolt on mods with cams and 3.4 P&C's. My intake manifold and heads are stock/have not been ported.
Below are the engine mods for power gains:
Kokeln long neck intercooler
Ruf Group B cams
Ruf 3.4 P&C's
Airtek induction
B&B headers
Fabspeed muffler
Ruf K29 turbo
0.9 bar boost spring
How can my fuel distributor with Andial FEC not be enough to support the mods above?
Below are the engine mods for power gains:
Kokeln long neck intercooler
Ruf Group B cams
Ruf 3.4 P&C's
Airtek induction
B&B headers
Fabspeed muffler
Ruf K29 turbo
0.9 bar boost spring
How can my fuel distributor with Andial FEC not be enough to support the mods above?
12-20-2005, 12:06 PM
#13
Race Car
Thread Starter
12-20-2005, 12:09 PM
#14
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by Sameer
How can my fuel distributor with Andial FEC not be enough to support the mods above?
12-20-2005, 12:16 PM
#15
Race Car
Thread Starter
38D,
I doubt that as the rest of the cars dynoed fine but will check with them on my next dyno run tomorrow after increasing the CO to 5%. If still runs lean, than I'd just have to go EFI rather than spending more money on the fuel head mod.
I doubt that as the rest of the cars dynoed fine but will check with them on my next dyno run tomorrow after increasing the CO to 5%. If still runs lean, than I'd just have to go EFI rather than spending more money on the fuel head mod.