Engine Mount Removal Tips **HELP**
10-05-2005, 04:58 PM
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
I'm attaching this thread from Pelican in case anyone else has the same troubles. My next plan is to order a new crossbeam from Rennline (thanks for the info, Brian) to have on hand in case this f_cker breaks. I'll keep on with the Parts Blaster for the next couple of days and then I plan to take a hammer to a breaker bar (or possible a lug wrench that I have) with a few quick blows.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=209774
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=209774
10-05-2005, 08:00 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
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When I broke mine (while driving), I got a new one from Porsche, but before installing it, I had a guy add a big piece of steel to each end and weld it all up. It aint going anywhere now.
10-05-2005, 08:37 PM
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
Okay, the new crossbeam has been ordered. Looks to be a lot more stout than that OEM thing. It's also got the large "weight savings" holes cut into it like the old RSR would have had. I got the brushed stainless instead of painted black. Funny, this started out to be a simple motor mount upgrade...now look at where I am! GAD! Can't wait to see what surprises the tranny mounts provide...I'll probably be ordering a berillium-oxygen-infused-hydrogen-alpha-tango-charlie-flux-capacitator beam after I break something on that f_cker!
10-05-2005, 09:57 PM
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
Okay, last question for the night...I'm pretty sure these mounts aren't coming off without breakig the beam. FINE...WHATEVAR! Can anyone tell me if the broken rear engine support beam can be removed and the new beam installed without removing the engine? For those who don't typically post here, this is a turbo engine...I don't think the rear engine tin is easily removed with the turbo installed. I've dropped the tin before, but I can't remember if I had the turbo removed from it's manifold. Maybe it can...jsut can't remember. I guess what I'm looking for is someone to tell me that there is (or is not) a way to angle the beam into the engine compartment from up above. Might have to look at what's involved in a "partial drop". I might actually be at a partial drop once the mounts are totally loose...carefully lower (tilt) the engine a little. I'm just trrying to keep it simple...don't want to re-invent the wheel if it's not necessary!
10-06-2005, 12:37 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Sandman,
I am new to this board...I had the the exact same thing happen to me a few months back. I wanted to replace the engine mounts and the crossmember broke. And I am thinking, "did I really have to change these mounts?" I removed the broken section of the crossmember with the 19mm bolt attached to it by removing the 13mm nuts and bolts. Luckily, the driver side 19mm broke loose without much trouble. Obviously, you must support the engine through the entire process and it much easier with the a/c compressor out of the way. You can remove and replace the crossmember without removing the engine. I know becasuse I did it. Once you have all the parts out and get the new crossmember, it all goes in pretty easily. Take your time. Oh, the joys of working on our cars. PS I don't have a impact gun, but plan on getting one.
I am new to this board...I had the the exact same thing happen to me a few months back. I wanted to replace the engine mounts and the crossmember broke. And I am thinking, "did I really have to change these mounts?" I removed the broken section of the crossmember with the 19mm bolt attached to it by removing the 13mm nuts and bolts. Luckily, the driver side 19mm broke loose without much trouble. Obviously, you must support the engine through the entire process and it much easier with the a/c compressor out of the way. You can remove and replace the crossmember without removing the engine. I know becasuse I did it. Once you have all the parts out and get the new crossmember, it all goes in pretty easily. Take your time. Oh, the joys of working on our cars. PS I don't have a impact gun, but plan on getting one.
10-06-2005, 12:45 PM
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
You da man Stevie 77 930!!! Thanks for the input and ...WELCOME! When you installed your beam, was it from underneath the engine compartment or or on top?
10-06-2005, 01:35 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
sandman,
with the intercooler and hoses removed from the left side and the a/c removed from the right there is enough room to drop in from the top. I did drop the engine an bit and that made it whole lot easier. With the new engine mounts, cross member and some new hardware, the engine compartment cleaned up nicely. Not bad for a 27 year old car. I got the OEM cross member and not the cool looking (and lighter) piece you have.
with the intercooler and hoses removed from the left side and the a/c removed from the right there is enough room to drop in from the top. I did drop the engine an bit and that made it whole lot easier. With the new engine mounts, cross member and some new hardware, the engine compartment cleaned up nicely. Not bad for a 27 year old car. I got the OEM cross member and not the cool looking (and lighter) piece you have.
10-06-2005, 01:45 PM
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Sameer
sandman,
Isit a direct bolt on the cross beam?
Isit a direct bolt on the cross beam?
10-06-2005, 02:00 PM
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Sameer
sandman,
So the engine has to be dropped?
So the engine has to be dropped?
10-06-2005, 02:01 PM
#29
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The Rennline beam has threaded ends. Its made identical to the stock beam, other than its nicer looking.
The sad part is, that with the engine in the car, you can't even see the thing hardly. But since Sand_man needs a replacement, this is a better option than a stock unit.
Brian
The sad part is, that with the engine in the car, you can't even see the thing hardly. But since Sand_man needs a replacement, this is a better option than a stock unit.
Brian