BJJones

Has anyone taken any pictures of the front sway bar install they could pos please?

ZCAT3

Barry - I still have the front end apart as I am repairing some rust I found on the edge of the fuel tank. I can post some pictures later today.

ZCAT3

O.K. - here you go. You can almost make out the stamp in the fender sheet metal that marks where the holes is drilled. I htink I drilled a 1.25 inch hole on each side. Also note my advanced method for marking my spring height (magic marker).

ZCAT3

Her is a view on the drop link - note the bolted on U-tab mount on the A-arm. You have to cut/grind off the stock sway bar mount.

ZCAT3

This is the sway bar mount inside the trunk - I did pull the gas tank, but I suppose you may be able to do this with the tanl installed - it would not be easy though.

ZCAT3

This is the other side. Note the U-clamps that hold the bar in place laterally. You can also clearly make out the round stamp in the sheet metal. If the gas tank was still in place threading the bar through all the wiring would be a challenge.

ZCAT3

Here is a picture of where the battery sits. I had an battery split open on me a few years back and it spilled some acid. You can see where the undercoat is missing. That area had some good surface rust going so I wired brushed it off and then repainted it. Amazingly I found some grey metallic Rustoleum that matches pretty good.

ZCAT3

Here is a close up on the side of the gas tank. The tank has a spongy weather strip that seals the bottom. Unfortuantely this strip appears to have soaked up the battery acid / water and caused the edge of the tank to rust - even though I spent many hours cleaning out the trunk with water and baking soda after the battery leaked. I took a wire wheel and cleaned up the edge until all rust was gone. I have already applied new rubberized undercoat to the top edge and painted it with another color Rustoleum that also closely matched the tank color. I still need to rubberize the bottom edge, paint it, and then reapply the weather strip.

BJJones

Bill

Thanks again you have been very thorough with your pictorial step by step guide.

Barry

ZCAT3

Barry - one more note - you can just make out the washers and bearing underneath the coil spring. I got these from TRG and would suggest you install these as well. It allows the spring to turn eliminating coil over "thunk" -

LukeSportsman

I must agree with Bill, the washer/bearing is great. It not only reduces suspension binding/noise, but allows the coil overs to be adjusted easily without bind. Different source, but same conclusion...they are nice.

A930Rocket

ZCAT3,

Excellent pictures.

Your hardware and parts make my Weltmeisters look like they were made in Taiwan. Which they probably were.

Jim

ZCAT3

Hey guys - TRG sent the parts I was missing (notable the rear mount spacers) and I finally finished the install. I will be taking the car out for a drive to tune in the sway bars once we get some decent weather. Could one of you who have done this before give me some basic tuning tips. For example, if the car has too much rear body roll do I want to move the rear drop links forward in the sliders or push them backwards? And for the front, which way do I move the drop links to reduce push?

Thanks for all the help - it is amazing that the online community is often more helpful than the product manufacturers.

jhunt@huntinter

For body roll it probably won't matter where you set the bars you won't see any. What you want to do is use them to adjust the oversteer/understeer for the track (and that occassional mountain rode). The goal being to get the car to neutral or maybe a little oversteer. I forget which way you go with the bars for oversteer/understeer. Rear tighter front looser = more oversteer I think. Opposite for understeer.

Regards,

John

PT

John is right... Loosen the front/stiffen the rear will provoke more overstee. Reverse for more understeer.

HTHs.