Contemplating '89 Turbo purchase
#1
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Contemplating '89 Turbo purchase
Looking at a low mileage '89 Turbo and would appreciate your input as to what I need to be on the lookout for.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
I sold my 89 about a year ago and regret it to this day. As much fun as it is, The Boxster just ain't the same. Oh well, enough about me.
PPI, PPI, PPI. Can I say it one more time- PPI. Definitely have it inspected by someone who knows 930's. And Check it's history on carfax.
A good 930 is a joy, a dog is a nightmare money pit.
The big difference in an 89 is the clutch and transmission.
Being hydraulic, the clutch should be smooth to operate and and exhibit little lash between gears. One with a bad rubber center will clunk between shifts. That would require a new clutch, which is a slightly more expensive because this is a setup unique to the 89.
The Transmission is the G50/50 and although they are tough as nails they can be an expensive repair if there is a problem. Some exhibit a sound like a chain dragging when the rpms are under 2000 and you accelerate, most often in second or third gear.
To test, get the car up to about 20-30 mph in second gear and try to moderately accelerate by just pressing down on the throttle, if it is a noisy one, you'll hear it now load and clear. Even if you hear the noise, it isn't always a real problem as long as it's mild and goes away as RPMs rise above 2000. But it is something to watch.
Be careful NOT to put it reverse when you think you put it in first gear while waiting for that traffic light to turn green. They are too close to each other, I know many who have done it..
Otherwise it is essentially the same as any late 3.3 930.
Minor trouble spots I ran into during my ownership,,, the voltage reg in the alternator can fail resulting in an erratic tach. The CD Ignition unit is a frequent failure point, causing a complete and sudden engine shutdown at any speed . Also the cam covers can leak oil.
They are great cars and an absolute blast to drive. Good luck in your search, I hope you find a good one.
PPI, PPI, PPI. Can I say it one more time- PPI. Definitely have it inspected by someone who knows 930's. And Check it's history on carfax.
A good 930 is a joy, a dog is a nightmare money pit.
The big difference in an 89 is the clutch and transmission.
Being hydraulic, the clutch should be smooth to operate and and exhibit little lash between gears. One with a bad rubber center will clunk between shifts. That would require a new clutch, which is a slightly more expensive because this is a setup unique to the 89.
The Transmission is the G50/50 and although they are tough as nails they can be an expensive repair if there is a problem. Some exhibit a sound like a chain dragging when the rpms are under 2000 and you accelerate, most often in second or third gear.
To test, get the car up to about 20-30 mph in second gear and try to moderately accelerate by just pressing down on the throttle, if it is a noisy one, you'll hear it now load and clear. Even if you hear the noise, it isn't always a real problem as long as it's mild and goes away as RPMs rise above 2000. But it is something to watch.
Be careful NOT to put it reverse when you think you put it in first gear while waiting for that traffic light to turn green. They are too close to each other, I know many who have done it..
Otherwise it is essentially the same as any late 3.3 930.
Minor trouble spots I ran into during my ownership,,, the voltage reg in the alternator can fail resulting in an erratic tach. The CD Ignition unit is a frequent failure point, causing a complete and sudden engine shutdown at any speed . Also the cam covers can leak oil.
They are great cars and an absolute blast to drive. Good luck in your search, I hope you find a good one.
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The five speed is worth the cost of admission on these. G50's tend to be a little noisy, especially at low rpms due to gear rattle. As turbopop mentioned the clutch is a bit more expensive, but mine went 75K and 14yrs before the rubber-centered clutch disc gave out(the rubber went, still a good amount of meat on the disc). The new disc is a spring-centered one(currently doing my clutch this week). Be prepared, a low mileage '89 is still 14 years old. As I have my engine out, I've found my motor mounts and other rubber parts look new, but the rubber has hardened with age. Many of the electrical problems and oil leaks are standard 911 stuff. Check Panorama, I've seen quite a few for sale in there recently. Happy hunting!
#4
89 930 Great car
Yes I do have one Cabriolet and almost problem free after 60,000 miles of good maintenance which is key for Porsche
If it is maintain properly they go like hell and without problems
I also had to replace CD unit but because I went with 12 plug system other than that changed the fan and outer pulley and that was about it
Running with Lubromolly syn oil and I hardly ever have to had oil and in the summer I drive this daily
Good luck
If it is maintain properly they go like hell and without problems
I also had to replace CD unit but because I went with 12 plug system other than that changed the fan and outer pulley and that was about it
Running with Lubromolly syn oil and I hardly ever have to had oil and in the summer I drive this daily
Good luck
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Only to reiterate what SoCal Mike said - rubber parts - now that the '89 930 is 15 model years old, you'll want the mechanic doing the PPI to thoroughly check belts, hoses, and pulleys. I'd also have the mechanic check brake rotors and give you an opinion on remaining clutch life. If things need replacing, use that info in your price negotiations.
As a data point, oil changes for me ('89 930 3.4) every 3,000 miles (or so) were about $150. My mechanic did them because I wanted him to do a visual and driving check of the car to make sure everything checked out.
"Majors" (valve adjustments) are much more expensive. Cost is also dependent upon whether or not the mechanic drops the engine. I wanted my mechanic to drop the engine so that everything could be thoroughly inspected. "Majors" cost me a minimum of $1500. Parts that needed replacing push that amount up depending on what was being replaced/fixed.
These cars do tend to leak. When the engine is out, leaks are much easier to re-seal.
I maintained the car rather well, I would think. Because of that, I never had significant failures or issues. The '89 930 was a great car. I miss mine too! :-(
Enjoy!
Dan
'97 993tt
As a data point, oil changes for me ('89 930 3.4) every 3,000 miles (or so) were about $150. My mechanic did them because I wanted him to do a visual and driving check of the car to make sure everything checked out.
"Majors" (valve adjustments) are much more expensive. Cost is also dependent upon whether or not the mechanic drops the engine. I wanted my mechanic to drop the engine so that everything could be thoroughly inspected. "Majors" cost me a minimum of $1500. Parts that needed replacing push that amount up depending on what was being replaced/fixed.
These cars do tend to leak. When the engine is out, leaks are much easier to re-seal.
I maintained the car rather well, I would think. Because of that, I never had significant failures or issues. The '89 930 was a great car. I miss mine too! :-(
Enjoy!
Dan
'97 993tt
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What can one expect to pay for an 89 930 that is in very good condition?
Also, would you not buy a modded 930 (my sole intention is to buy one and make it blistering fast). The 930 will be my track car but also must remain street legal. I've looked at an E30 M3, E36 M3, and the STI thus far (I have one more year of payments on my Bimmer) and for the longest time I thought the 993 was the car for me....until my neck snapped in a 350bhp 930. Just gathering information right now, as I finally think I found the P-Car that is right for me. I'd like to keep car purchase under $35k is possible (although maybe I'll be making more money this time next year ). Suggestions?
Also, would you not buy a modded 930 (my sole intention is to buy one and make it blistering fast). The 930 will be my track car but also must remain street legal. I've looked at an E30 M3, E36 M3, and the STI thus far (I have one more year of payments on my Bimmer) and for the longest time I thought the 993 was the car for me....until my neck snapped in a 350bhp 930. Just gathering information right now, as I finally think I found the P-Car that is right for me. I'd like to keep car purchase under $35k is possible (although maybe I'll be making more money this time next year ). Suggestions?
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Optimo: I'll offer my two-cents worth on your questions.
1) '89 930 price. Depends on miles, condition, location, options, mods, etc. A stock, low-mileage '89 930 could fetch mid-to-high $30's, perhaps even low $40. If it is modified, it depends on what you think the modifications are worth.
I value modifications by determining how much the mods would cost today to do. I then take between 50%-60% of that price and add it to the value of a stock 930. I'm sure everyone has their own method of valuing modifications, so I'm not looking to debate my method - I only offer it because you asked.
2) Would I buy a modified 930? It depends on a) what modifications were and b) if I was planning on getting those modifications anyway.
If the answer to "b" is yes, then if the PPI checks out, why not consider purchasing it.
If the answer to "b" is no, then I would be less interested in buying the car. I might still make an offer, but I wouldn't put much value on mods I really didn't want. The seller will probably not accept the bid, but you'll never know unless you make an offer!
3) Turbo for under $35K? Sure, there's a lot of them out there. You may not be able to find the best example of an '89 930 at that price, but you'll be able to find a very nice ride for $35K. There may be primo examples of an '86 or '87 at that price.
Just be patient and enjoy the search process.
Dan
'97 993tt
1) '89 930 price. Depends on miles, condition, location, options, mods, etc. A stock, low-mileage '89 930 could fetch mid-to-high $30's, perhaps even low $40. If it is modified, it depends on what you think the modifications are worth.
I value modifications by determining how much the mods would cost today to do. I then take between 50%-60% of that price and add it to the value of a stock 930. I'm sure everyone has their own method of valuing modifications, so I'm not looking to debate my method - I only offer it because you asked.
2) Would I buy a modified 930? It depends on a) what modifications were and b) if I was planning on getting those modifications anyway.
If the answer to "b" is yes, then if the PPI checks out, why not consider purchasing it.
If the answer to "b" is no, then I would be less interested in buying the car. I might still make an offer, but I wouldn't put much value on mods I really didn't want. The seller will probably not accept the bid, but you'll never know unless you make an offer!
3) Turbo for under $35K? Sure, there's a lot of them out there. You may not be able to find the best example of an '89 930 at that price, but you'll be able to find a very nice ride for $35K. There may be primo examples of an '86 or '87 at that price.
Just be patient and enjoy the search process.
Dan
'97 993tt
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#8
Thinking outside da' bun...
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Id say the avg stock 930s (coupes only) with avg to lower than avg miles are as follows:
Low end is a very so-so car, high end is a sure-fire ribbon winner:
1986 $24-32K
1987 $26-34K
1988 $28-36K
1989 $31-39K
These are just off the cuff ballparks in my head. There are always a few examples that will fall above or below it.
Low end is a very so-so car, high end is a sure-fire ribbon winner:
1986 $24-32K
1987 $26-34K
1988 $28-36K
1989 $31-39K
These are just off the cuff ballparks in my head. There are always a few examples that will fall above or below it.
#9
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The 89 is certainly the best of that run. If you consider the cost to buy a 930 tranny based car and do the conversion to the G50 you will find that the cost offset is much better by buying the 89. They are truly wonderful cars.
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Originally posted by PorschePhD
The 89 is certainly the best of that run. If you consider the cost to buy a 930 tranny based car and do the conversion to the G50 you will find that the cost offset is much better by buying the 89. They are truly wonderful cars.
The 89 is certainly the best of that run. If you consider the cost to buy a 930 tranny based car and do the conversion to the G50 you will find that the cost offset is much better by buying the 89. They are truly wonderful cars.
Considering I plan on running more than a couple track events every year, which one will be less strenuous on the wallet to maintain? I have no problems doing simple things like brakes and fluid changes, but other than that I'd rather leave it to someone who knows these cars inside and out.
c$35k will get me a 1989 (my favorite year) in good condition - more appealing to rawness, learning the limits, and output potential
or a 95-96 C2 also in good condition - more appealing in styling, the engine is also a treat but it takes big $$$ to break the 300bhp limit.
It should also be stated that the majority of the interior will be ripped out, seats replaced and if lightweight composite parts aren't too absurdly expensive, I plan on going with those as well. I'm a big fan of losing weight as I have found in the past that it's one of the best mods to handling.
I've been lurking in the 993 forum for over a year now and I've actually attended one of the South Beach drives. Those guys are great but I want to eventually have a car that will suit me for the next 10+ years. The E30 M3 is a treat to drive but doesn't have the power I'm looking for (but what a treat to drive).
Sorry for the lengthy post, it's Friday morning and I'm ready for the weekend.