fastdiablo

Hello, I"m and air-cooled neophyte and I've been looking for a 3.2 for a couple months now mostly in the 87-89 range, some older. I notice that there are lots of cars for sale right at the 100K mile range -it's uncanny. Is there something to be aware of when these cars hit 100K? I believe a transmission rebuild and top end rebuild need to happen somewhere around there, but would love to hear from the experts from a buyers perspective. When does a full rebuild typically take place?

Second, I notice some engine photos show an airbox (i think) in the upper right corner, and some others show an open air filter element. Any implications either way from a maintenance, performance, or engine wear perspective etc? Is this a good DD mod, or more a hot rod mod? Seems the filter might get wet in rain via the tail?

Third, I see a what I think is called a tower brace in the frunk going across from the top of the shock to the other. I assume this is a stiffness thing, but would like learn more about why this is done and how it impacts handling? If I see this, is this likely a car driven hard or often tracked? Track use doesn't bother me, just looking to learn more.

Another question while I'm at it. The 89 Anniversary cars seem to command a bit of a premium. What is the right way to think about that premium with regards to interior condition and mileage? It seems the premium is only warranted if the example is very low miles and in excellent condition, otherwise it seems like it's just another high mileage 3.2. Curious how the smart guys think about this topic as I'm looking at an Anniversary car tomorrow w 110K miles on it, but the interior looks a little rough and would need work possibly negating the uniqueness of the limited edition car (?).

Thanks for the help gents! Very excited to get my first air-cooled car.

Spyerx

Hello, I"m and air-cooled neophyte and I've been looking for a 3.2 for a couple months now mostly in the 87-89 range, some older. I notice that there are lots of cars for sale right at the 100K mile range -it's uncanny. Is there something to be aware of when these cars hit 100K? I believe a transmission rebuild and top end rebuild need to happen somewhere around there, but would love to hear from the experts from a buyers perspective. When does a full rebuild typically take place?

======> this is very maintenance and use depndant. Usually around 100k you're going to see a top end done. Bottom end on these can last a long time. Locate a car with records and have a leak down and compression test done. This will tell you a lot of the when. More common is valve guides wearing and causing oil consumption but this generally won't affect performance if compression is good.


Second, I notice some engine photos show an airbox (i think) in the upper right corner, and some others show an open air filter element. Any implications either way from a maintenance, performance, or engine wear perspective etc? Is this a good DD mod, or more a hot rod mod? Seems the filter might get wet in rain via the tail?


======> the stock air box is better. Those oiled filters don't filter that well.

Third, I see a what I think is called a tower brace in the frunk going across from the top of the shock to the other. I assume this is a stiffness thing, but would like learn more about why this is done and how it impacts handling? If I see this, is this likely a car driven hard or often tracked? Track use doesn't bother me, just looking to learn more.


======> it stiffens up the front end to help with chassis flex. Not an indicator of track use a lot of guys have these on their street cars they are easy to remove.

Another question while I'm at it. The 89 Anniversary cars seem to command a bit of a premium. What is the right way to think about that premium with regards to interior condition and mileage? It seems the premium is only warranted if the example is very low miles and in excellent condition, otherwise it seems like it's just another high mileage 3.2. Curious how the smart guys think about this topic as I'm looking at an Anniversary car tomorrow w 110K miles on it, but the interior looks a little rough and would need work possibly negating the uniqueness of the limited edition car (?).


=====> personally I see no value in the anniversaries cars. The interior colors are light like white or linen and are going to show wear.

Bottom line: shop condition and pay for the clean car. Your wallet will thank you later. Don't be scare of miles for a well maintained cars. These machines love to be driven. And I think those with miles are often the better running cars.

sugarwood

Cone cold air intake is a snake oil mod. Can be corrected with $300/
Strut bar is also snake oil mods. Look up monoball.
Anniv. not worth the premium unless you're a collector.

fastdiablo

So I saw the anniversary car in question this morning. Great condition, but when looking through the service receipts I was shocked to see "odometer inoperable" in 2013. Sure enough, years of service receipts showed the same mileage number. Wow. Then I went back to 2001 service receipts and the mileage had changed by just a thousand miles or so. The car is being represented as 110k miles, but who knows what the real number is. Had to walk from an otherwise seemingly nice car.

r911

I wouldn't worry much about mileage; I WOULD pay close attention to maintenance, including WHY the odo was not fixed for several years.

dgrollo

84-89 911 is the best - let the argument begin - you can buy - 100k miles is not a reason to rebuild engine or transmission - I have a 2002 town car with 100k and still running great - my 84 911 coupe is leaps and bounds a better built car - don't worry about 100k get a good ppi and change the oil don't abuse it and worry about a rebuild around 200 - 300 k miles. I have about 63k - I do my own mechanical work mainly because I have not run into any major system problems - also I have the 915 trans - meaning its not hydraulic - learn how to drive the car and shift the transmission properly and the car will last - also don't be shy of turning a wrench and working on the car yourself - because you can - unlike the computerized monsters they have today where you can't even see the engine. Some people put a K and N air filter in place of the stock unit - thinking they are getting more horsepower - not true it sounds louder - ok maybe you'll get 2 more hp but run the risk of not caring for the filter in the proper way and causing engine problems - unlikely I agree but why do it Porsche has a rather good rep for engineering I'd trust them. Tower brace bar is ok does not hurt anything does it help who cares with your 84 - 89 you are not going to compete against Vettel or Hamilton. PPI from a good Porsche shop - not a dealer probably at this point they have forgotten how to work on these cars.

911Dave

Mileage is not the issue, condition is. And odometers do break on these cars. Further, very few Carreras need top ends done at 100k. Most can go much longer. The premature valve guide wear problem that is notable with these cars only affected less than 10% of the cars, and almost always resulted in rebuilds in the neighborhood of 50k miles. Any car that survives to the 100k mile point in fine health is not one of the affected cars, and you can expect normal wear from them. That said, of course, the health of the engine is directly related to how the car was driven and maintained. Some can go to 200k or farther. A PPI, including compression and leakdown tests, will give you a good indication of its health. That and maintenance records. The fact that the owner(s) kept maintenance records at least as far back as 2001 is an indication that they understood the importance of regular maintenance and documentation. From what you've said so far, I see no reason to walk from this car.

r911

Agree with above, but why was the odo not repaired?

The OP walked away, but can always walk back with a lower offer, citing that.

re the strut brace - the degree of snake oiliness depends on the design - a pic would help

you can always use a strut bar as a towel rack too

Spyerx

or a place to mount canisters for adjustable dampers. :-)

I don't have one on my 89, but I do have one from Rothsport on my 964 that is modeled after the 964 cup cars. Unless you're using r comp or slicks, I can't see really feeling the thing anyway.

fastdiablo

I hear ya, all good points. My issue is the odo has been broken for over 10 years and is currently showing 110k miles. The service records showed 110k back to 04 I think it was. The car could have 200k+ on it for all I know, which to me is material regardless of maintenance or condition.
Also, it was odd the seller has owned for just 3 months and is trying to sell already. He's not a flipper. I'm pretty conservative in this regard and prefer a "no stories" car.
appreciate all the great info!

sugarwood

10 years is a deal killer. Like you said, could be 200k miles. If the seller owned for 10 years and drove 2000 miles a year and then the odo stopped in year 8, then I'd safely conclude another 4k miles and adjust the odo. But your case is way bigger of a gap to predict. It's probably fine, but I'd walk, mainly since this will be an issue when you resell. You have to be getting a killer deal to consider this.

sugarwood

What was the reason given for selling after three months?

911Dave

i took this to mean that the odometer BECAME inoperable in 2013, and that the "years of service receipts" was 2013-2016. If it was 110k for ten years, that's an entirely different ball game.

fastdiablo

He said he had a neighbor who talked him into building a track car, and he didn't want to hot rod the Anniversary car. The asking price was $55k. Decent price if the mileage was correct..
He also said the car did not burn any oil, but did drip a few drops when parked.

r911

These aren't rare cars, so keep looking. Prices tend to drop in the dead of winter.