how to shop for Fuchs?
#1
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how to shop for Fuchs?
I have a 1969T roller.
Looking for Fuchs to complete the build.
What Fuchs should i be looking for to be period correct?
Where there many different types offered for long hood cars? Dish? size? offset? etc...
What would be the opinion of aftermarket Fuchs compared to restored Fuchs?
Looking for Fuchs to complete the build.
What Fuchs should i be looking for to be period correct?
Where there many different types offered for long hood cars? Dish? size? offset? etc...
What would be the opinion of aftermarket Fuchs compared to restored Fuchs?
#2
Drifting
For a 69 correct fuchs wheels would be a set of deep 6's, not cheap but pretty wheels. Car may have been delivered with steel wheels. You don't want after market fuchs- none of them look right. There are quite a few period correct cool looking wheels minilite etc.
Phil
Phil
#4
Addict
I see 14" fuchs on craigslist all the time that are dirt cheap. How big are your brakes? How wide do you want to go?
For example:
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac...037695206.html
For example:
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac...037695206.html
#5
Rennlist Member
Look at the part number. Deep six part numbers start with 901 and the Flat 6's start with 911.
Deep 6's start with:
901.361.012.06
Flat six part number is:
911.361.020.00 (3-pronged centre cap)
911.361.020.10 (ring type centre cap)
The early deep six with 06 part number can either have heart shape cut out or flat shape cut out at the valve stem. That change of deep 6 heart to non-heart was around 9/10th month of 1970 and then to flat 6 Fuchs around 3/4 1971.
Deep sixes are more valuable than flat sixes due to rarity. Get deep sixes as correctness would add value to a car beyond the value of the wheels, especially if the deep sixes had the matching date code for the car in question.
Deep 6's start with:
901.361.012.06
Flat six part number is:
911.361.020.00 (3-pronged centre cap)
911.361.020.10 (ring type centre cap)
The early deep six with 06 part number can either have heart shape cut out or flat shape cut out at the valve stem. That change of deep 6 heart to non-heart was around 9/10th month of 1970 and then to flat 6 Fuchs around 3/4 1971.
Deep sixes are more valuable than flat sixes due to rarity. Get deep sixes as correctness would add value to a car beyond the value of the wheels, especially if the deep sixes had the matching date code for the car in question.
#6
Rennlist Member
I used to just run a 15X7 w/ 225/50s all the way around on my non-flared cars. Even way back when the idiot squad was out with hoarding the "deep" 15X6 wheels.
Not period correct, but 16X6 w/ 205/55 worked pretty well for the guys who didn't want to go to the extra effort in making 7s work.
And date codes? I'd rather be be run over by my 911 than worry about that. I only hope I live long enough to see the pendulum swing back to, you know, enjoying driving the cars.
Not period correct, but 16X6 w/ 205/55 worked pretty well for the guys who didn't want to go to the extra effort in making 7s work.
And date codes? I'd rather be be run over by my 911 than worry about that. I only hope I live long enough to see the pendulum swing back to, you know, enjoying driving the cars.
#7
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Look at the part number. Deep six part numbers start with 901 and the Flat 6's start with 911.
Deep 6's start with:
901.361.012.06
Flat six part number is:
911.361.020.00 (3-pronged centre cap)
911.361.020.10 (ring type centre cap)
The early deep six with 06 part number can either have heart shape cut out or flat shape cut out at the valve stem. That change of deep 6 heart to non-heart was around 9/10th month of 1970 and then to flat 6 Fuchs around 3/4 1971.
Deep sixes are more valuable than flat sixes due to rarity. Get deep sixes as correctness would add value to a car beyond the value of the wheels, especially if the deep sixes had the matching date code for the car in question.
Deep 6's start with:
901.361.012.06
Flat six part number is:
911.361.020.00 (3-pronged centre cap)
911.361.020.10 (ring type centre cap)
The early deep six with 06 part number can either have heart shape cut out or flat shape cut out at the valve stem. That change of deep 6 heart to non-heart was around 9/10th month of 1970 and then to flat 6 Fuchs around 3/4 1971.
Deep sixes are more valuable than flat sixes due to rarity. Get deep sixes as correctness would add value to a car beyond the value of the wheels, especially if the deep sixes had the matching date code for the car in question.
The wheels have 911 part numbers so they are flat sixes.
Dates appear to be 73, 76 and 78.
For the right price i may just take them.
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#8
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I used to just run a 15X7 w/ 225/50s all the way around on my non-flared cars. Even way back when the idiot squad was out with hoarding the "deep" 15X6 wheels.
Not period correct, but 16X6 w/ 205/55 worked pretty well for the guys who didn't want to go to the extra effort in making 7s work.
And date codes? I'd rather be be run over by my 911 than worry about that. I only hope I live long enough to see the pendulum swing back to, you know, enjoying driving the cars.
Not period correct, but 16X6 w/ 205/55 worked pretty well for the guys who didn't want to go to the extra effort in making 7s work.
And date codes? I'd rather be be run over by my 911 than worry about that. I only hope I live long enough to see the pendulum swing back to, you know, enjoying driving the cars.
Date coding is interesting, but for a non numbers matching car I can do without given my intended use. Driving the snott out of it.
#10
Addict
Go with 15's then. This is one of several sets for sale right now.
http://ventura.craigslist.org/pts/4988813881.html
Actually I know where a couple hundred are squirreled away.
http://ventura.craigslist.org/pts/4988813881.html
Actually I know where a couple hundred are squirreled away.
#11
Drifting
Hearts vs non hearts only applies to deep sixes not the flat sixes, the heart is a little bump by valve stem. I'm with Ken put some good wheel on car and drive the **** out of it. The cookie cutters are decent wheels as well- a set runs about $350-500.
Phil
Phil
#13
Nordschleife Master
Only reason to worry about a date code is if you are restoring a numbers matching car. Then you get a COA, see which of several wheel options came on the car new, and then getting something in the right production range of when your car was originally built.
Otherwise just put on what you like. My '67 has 1974 6x15s on back and 1970 6x15s on front. They were just what I had at the time.
Otherwise just put on what you like. My '67 has 1974 6x15s on back and 1970 6x15s on front. They were just what I had at the time.
#14
Rennlist Member
Glad we got this far without a discussion of 911R 7s.........
My friend has Minilites on his Gemini Blue '72 T that was a pretty stock restoration before anyone didn't hack them into faux RSRs, but I'm sure pictures are easily found in a search.
And sometimes you can find weird offset multi-piece 15X6.5 or 7 (BBS, etc.) that were left over from the '80s. Bonus points for the BBS that didn't have a drop center, so you had to disassemble the wheel to change tires.
My friend has Minilites on his Gemini Blue '72 T that was a pretty stock restoration before anyone didn't hack them into faux RSRs, but I'm sure pictures are easily found in a search.
And sometimes you can find weird offset multi-piece 15X6.5 or 7 (BBS, etc.) that were left over from the '80s. Bonus points for the BBS that didn't have a drop center, so you had to disassemble the wheel to change tires.