SC Starts Fine, Stalls until Warm and has no High Start-up idle
#1
SC Starts Fine, Stalls until Warm and has no High Start-up idle
Hi:
81SC, starts up after maybe 1-2 seconds of cranking cold, but wont stay lit unless foot on the gas a little. Revs just fine above 1000rpm, but if I take my foot off the gas, it shuts right off to 0 rpm. When its warm, it runs just fine and doesn't stall. Car was just smogged and CO checked and warm it is about 3%. But seems not nearly enough to be so rich the car should die like it does (since the symptoms seem like they could be a rich condition). AAR stuck closed perhaps, I need to check but I have never heard them stick closed, only open.
New airbox, injectors, injector seals, rebuilt distributor, new O2, idle pretty spot on when warm. Runs great warm.
Any thoughts I should look at before I start bench testing everything?
Thanks
81SC, starts up after maybe 1-2 seconds of cranking cold, but wont stay lit unless foot on the gas a little. Revs just fine above 1000rpm, but if I take my foot off the gas, it shuts right off to 0 rpm. When its warm, it runs just fine and doesn't stall. Car was just smogged and CO checked and warm it is about 3%. But seems not nearly enough to be so rich the car should die like it does (since the symptoms seem like they could be a rich condition). AAR stuck closed perhaps, I need to check but I have never heard them stick closed, only open.
New airbox, injectors, injector seals, rebuilt distributor, new O2, idle pretty spot on when warm. Runs great warm.
Any thoughts I should look at before I start bench testing everything?
Thanks
#2
Team Owner
you absolutely need to get a set of CIS fuel gages on it , you need to know your cold control pressures, sounds like it could be the WUR acting up if it cant keep it running cold.
This would certainly be a place to start.
This would certainly be a place to start.
#3
Racer
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Along a road in South Carolina
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Fuel pressures are important and it can show you if the control pressure regulator is working. Your new airbox could have also been installed with the wrong plastic flange. They come with 2 and one has the air port for the AAR; the second being blocked off for the flow. This is a hard problem to find if you did not know about its existence.
#4
I have a Bosch pressure tester, just havent gotten to put it on yet. Feels like it is running too rich, I mean it just dies without even a stumble when you take your foot off the gas. But once warm it idles fantastic.
That is a very interesting thought Houpty. So on the cold start valve the fitting you mean?
That is a very interesting thought Houpty. So on the cold start valve the fitting you mean?
#6
Team Owner
pics for the masses ?
when i did my air box he asked what year car it was and told me a needed a special plug and seal washer to seal off the unused port. Is this what you guys are talking about ?
when i did my air box he asked what year car it was and told me a needed a special plug and seal washer to seal off the unused port. Is this what you guys are talking about ?
#7
The t shaped flange in front of the red CSV. The bottom part of the T should flow into the CSV port and allow for extra air. The one supplied with the airbox was close off inside there so the T goes to nowhere. Cant really notice it though at a glance.
Separately though, my idle is actually decent now, but I am not getting a warm up high idle and settling down. I can adjust the idle with the idle screw up to 1500rpm+ no probably and it will idle at 950rpm no probably too thought 1500 seems a bit lean given exhaust temp and 950 seems a bit rich given smell.
But I have taken off the AAR and tested it and it working just fine. Freezer opens it up, a light torch from far away closes it up. But yet I get no change in idle. Any thoughts?
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#8
Team Owner
i keep coming back the the WUR
have you checked the resistance of the heater coil in it at least ?
when you get your pressure gages you will see the control pressure start at one value , and when you turn on the ignition it will slowly begin to change ( changing your idle if the car were running ) . As the car warms up . Thats why this is a must as you have no idea if this is happening.
have you checked the resistance of the heater coil in it at least ?
when you get your pressure gages you will see the control pressure start at one value , and when you turn on the ignition it will slowly begin to change ( changing your idle if the car were running ) . As the car warms up . Thats why this is a must as you have no idea if this is happening.