Who still has original paint?
03-12-2013, 08:26 PM
#46
Instructor
A little touch-up paint on some of the bad chips and a solid once-over with a decent cutting compound and you will be shocked by how great your paint looks. As for perfect and original, pick one. My paint looks great but even up close on it, you can see some of its age in the normal places. You can't eliminate the small nicks and chips if you actually enjoy it.
03-12-2013, 08:48 PM
#47
Three Wheelin'
It's not nearly as intimidating as it sounds. Just even pressure and deliberate motions and you can't go wrong. Most modern orbitals make it next to impossible to burn your paint.
03-12-2013, 09:33 PM
#48
Or, a stop at a really good detail shop is worth the money too. Have the car buffed once (for probably the cost of buying that orbital, pads and products) then keep the paint up with proper washing and waxing techniques and the car will look great for years.
03-12-2013, 09:38 PM
#49
My paint is heavy with swirl marks. I'm unsure if it's from a cover flapping around on the paintwork or poor detailing techniques (the records I have from new to current day show the car was detailed twice a year since new).
It probably needs a decent, professional wet sanding, but I'm leaving the car as is since the paint is probably getting relatively thin in it's old age. It looks good from a few feet away and only **** retentive people like me would notice anyway...
The 964 is near flawless though...probably from proper care from prior owners and from it being in a garage since new.
It probably needs a decent, professional wet sanding, but I'm leaving the car as is since the paint is probably getting relatively thin in it's old age. It looks good from a few feet away and only **** retentive people like me would notice anyway...
The 964 is near flawless though...probably from proper care from prior owners and from it being in a garage since new.
03-12-2013, 09:38 PM
#50
Three Wheelin'
Case in point: The Griot's process (one buffer choice, one pad choice and 4 simple polish choices) makes it pretty easy to really clean up the paint without fear of ruining your paint. There also are other good orbitals and products that are easy to use.
Or, a stop at a really good detail shop is worth the money too. Have the car buffed once (for probably the cost of buying that orbital, pads and products) then keep the paint up with proper washing and waxing techniques and the car will look great for years.
Or, a stop at a really good detail shop is worth the money too. Have the car buffed once (for probably the cost of buying that orbital, pads and products) then keep the paint up with proper washing and waxing techniques and the car will look great for years.
03-15-2013, 01:53 AM
#51
Intermediate
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My paint is original w/some stone chips and scratches. I'm pretty sure the car was driven on fire roads. It's too nice to repaint, but not as nice as Ians. I'll have a pro look at it and see what can be done after my suspension upgrade.
Dean
Dean
03-15-2013, 07:27 AM
#52
Three Wheelin'
Dean,
What are you doing with the suspension? I'm planning on refreshing mine soon too and I can't decide between doing the ball joints, tie rods, and all of the major bushings or just going all out with new torsion bars and shocks as well.
03-15-2013, 12:10 PM
#53
Rennlist Member
Original paint except for hood, which had some road damage. 1985 3.2 , 104,000 miles. My car is base black--not matellic--and paint has held up exceptionally well. Garaged, kept clean and waxed twice a year with Malms.
03-15-2013, 02:40 PM
#54
Burning Brakes
All original paint on my '85. 130k+ miles. Always garaged so it stays in good shape. Mine (Grand Prix White) has no clear coat. I think most of the colors back then had clear coat, but am not sure. Does anyone know?
03-15-2013, 05:29 PM
#55
Rennlist Member
Mine (89) has survived ~24 years and now she gets to be new again. There comes a point where the patina is no longer "patina",..and needs "fixin'!!!! SOON!
Beautiful BLUE colors rendered here.
BEST!
Doyle
Doyle
Beautiful BLUE colors rendered here.
BEST!
Doyle
Doyle
03-15-2013, 06:13 PM
#56
Intermediate
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I'm doing the whole enchilada. My parts inventory so far: turbo tie rods,
ball joints w/related hardware, zimmerman brake rotors and Fuchs wheel set 7s and 8s. Elephant Racing: hollow 22/29 torsion w/rear quick change inserts, quick change spring plate splined hub pair, strut top bushings and trailing arm bushings. Rebel Racing front and rear bushing set. Smart anti-roll bars. Almost 2 years worth of parts collecting.
Essentially all I have left to do is get the car on jack stands and get it apart. I can then send out the shocks and struts out for modification and revalving. The brake calipers will be sent out for restoration also.
Craig's got a great suspension upgrade thread on pelican.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...n-rebuild.html
He's really been an inspiration to alot of us.
Dean
03-16-2013, 08:04 AM
#57
Three Wheelin'
Nice, Dean. I'm looking to do something similar. I'm probably just going to order one of Elephant's total packages. I've been following Craig's thread as well. Lots of great information and details there.
03-16-2013, 04:59 PM
#58
Drifting
Original paint on my 82 Targa
118,000 miles
Has a clear coat per the factory sticker near the door jam.
Includes the usual road rash of chips on the front bumper, hood and by the headlights.
118,000 miles
Has a clear coat per the factory sticker near the door jam.
Includes the usual road rash of chips on the front bumper, hood and by the headlights.
03-16-2013, 06:40 PM
#59
Drifting
Thread Starter
Very Nice, love that rare color. Was that exclusinve to the SC or did it make it into the 3.2 line?