Shannon123

Already did that.....sorry, did not include it in my wrap-up comments.

rusnak

WUR controls the fuel pressure on a 3.0, which has continuous injection.

I thought about your pressure regulator, which is why I say to check fuel pressure. But I think a lean condition is a possibility. One way to check this is to open the oil fill cap while idling, and see if the engine speed changes or nearly dies. Or you can try to run without the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator (on the left side of the motor) and see if it runs better. This will make it run very rich.

theiceman

i found adjusting my base Co did WAY more for my idle than anything else. i would have that done before doing anything else.

Shannon123

I took oil fill cap off and idle speed decreased and got rougher.

Fuel regulator vacuum: I assume I'm looking at the correct thing (far back drivers side corner of engine). I tried to pull the vacuum line off and it seemed to be on very solidly, consequently I didn't want to tear the rubber.....so I did not perform this test.

Shannon123

Ice....did you do this yourself ? If so, what tools / equipment did it require. I think that is a logical next step.

rusnak

When you remove the oil fill cap, you introduce a large vacuum leak. The DME should see this and recover fairly quickly (within a second or two). If the idle stays rough, then you either have a bad O2 sensor or wire, or bad DME, or you're already outside of the ability mixture-wise for the DME to handle.

That's why the next thing is to measure the air fuel ratio, fuel pressure, and check even more for vacuum leaks. There is no short-cut, or ignoring those steps that you dont or cant do. It is what it is.

Adjusting the CO% or air fuel mixture, is done with a measuring device that measures the exhaust gas. As I mentioned, these can be either rented or purchased. You MUST have one operating before you attempt to adjust the mixture. A tiny adjustment makes a huge difference.

Shannon123

All.....you have been exceptionally forthcoming with ideas for my situation. I will try and post a VID a bit later, but need to give the techron and new gas a chance to work through the system. I'm headed out for some spirited driving and burn some gas through this thing.

Rusnak....I've been reading alot of your stuff on Pelican, seems as if you have been troubleshooting this stuff for many people for a long time and I sincerly appreciate it. Hopefully, I can become a worthy contributer down the road. Anyhow, after many of the things you have instructed me to do, you seemed to point toward checking plugs, distributor etc......this was pointed out very early on and think I have to start considering this as well. Anyhow....lots of ammo here, thanks again to all.

As for the CO adjustement, I think I will leave that for later if needed. Seems like something the DME should be taking car of it working properly. I should note....that when I took the oil cap off, it did result initinally in decreased idle, which did recover.

theiceman

i did it myself but i used an LM-1 gas analyser. You also have to do something special because you have an O2 sensor. I have no such beast.

If you are going to do that you may as well do a valve adjustment first as it is not unusual to do it after.

Shannon123

Well....just got back from a very long and exceedingly fun/spirted (hey, its hard not to drive less than 80 on North Houston freeways) road trip. Pulled into the garage, shut her down, opened the hood and adjusted the airflow bypass screw and got the idle pegged at 900 rpm......AND it was smooth as silk.

I'm hopeful she does the same in the AM......fingers crossed it was some bad gas that has passed with the help of the techron I put in her.

rusnak

Hmm, Ed may have called this one. Nothing special with an LM-1, other than a second bung welded into the exhaust.

dshepp806

I'm with Ice on this,....I've a faint taste of cold start hunting,..never had a problem for 5 years until I decided to adjust the idle upward, more closer to 880, one day.....then it started to raise it's head intermittently....I thought (and have read here) that there should be no correlation B/W idle RPM base setting and mix setting (obviously I didn't DARE touch that mix screw!!!). Now, I'm thinking that I should have the mix checked,..then go from there.

Maybe someone could comment on how a idle RPM adjustment could affect an untouched idle mix?

Best,

Doyle

rusnak

Idle speed and mixture are not really adjustable on a 3.2. You're actually centering baseline value toward a more acceptable range so that the Motronic system has more usable range of control. That is why people buy custom chips and/or mess with the clock spring in the AFM.

Shannon123

I'm going to fine tune my idle a bit further base on this procedure, which was a result of many of you guys input.

Question I called every auto store in my area and nobody sells or rents a CO meter/analyzer (or I am asking them the wrong question?)......any help on hunting one of these down would be greatly appreciated.

Brett San Diego

For this initial "baseline" tuning, I'd recommend taking it to a knowledgeable professional. Get a valve adjustment (or do it yourself), put in new plugs, cap and rotor, then take it in for a solid baseline tuning job (timing, mixture, idle). Then, maintain it yourself from there.

Brett