pad and rotor recommendations...
#1
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Thread Starter
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Hi all,
I'm getting ready to order parts for a few winter projects. I'm going to be replacing my rotors and pads and need some recommendations for a package that fits my needs -- mostly street with a few track days a year. I'd like cross drilled rotors and low dust.
Recommendations?
I imagine I should replace my brake lines while I'm at it... any recommendation there are greatly appreciated.
thanks!
Jim
I'm getting ready to order parts for a few winter projects. I'm going to be replacing my rotors and pads and need some recommendations for a package that fits my needs -- mostly street with a few track days a year. I'd like cross drilled rotors and low dust.
Recommendations?
I imagine I should replace my brake lines while I'm at it... any recommendation there are greatly appreciated.
thanks!
Jim
#2
Team Owner
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i think Steve W may do pads and rotors.
yup definitely do the lines.. i found it extremely helpfull to get the car on stands about a week before and PB blast the connections to the hard lines and work with an old tooth brush twice a day. This was the first replacement lines for me. Also make sure you use a good line wrench for taking the connections off.
Also take a big syringe and suck the crap out of your reservoir, dont push it through the master. then take off the reservoir and wash it in warm soapy water. you can let it sit over a running dehumidifier to dry it out or use a bit of rubbing alcohol in it to get all the moisture out.
then use a good quality fluid such as ate gold or blue.
As for pads and rotors i will let others comment.. im just the mechanic .. i dont drive the thing
. a lot will depend on your use, budget and willingness to clean your wheels.
yup definitely do the lines.. i found it extremely helpfull to get the car on stands about a week before and PB blast the connections to the hard lines and work with an old tooth brush twice a day. This was the first replacement lines for me. Also make sure you use a good line wrench for taking the connections off.
Also take a big syringe and suck the crap out of your reservoir, dont push it through the master. then take off the reservoir and wash it in warm soapy water. you can let it sit over a running dehumidifier to dry it out or use a bit of rubbing alcohol in it to get all the moisture out.
then use a good quality fluid such as ate gold or blue.
As for pads and rotors i will let others comment.. im just the mechanic .. i dont drive the thing
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#4
RL Technical Advisor
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Hi Jim,
JMHO,......but I would not used cross-drilled rotors in these sizes for track use due to cracking problems. Use either plain or properly slotted ones.
Regarding pads,...there are several options, however you will need track pads along with street pads so you have braking at elevated temperatures since street pads will fail when doing DE events.
Don't overlook brake lines if yours are 10 years old (or more). I prefer SS ones for track use, but they are NOT all alike.
With good fluid, proper pads and rotors, you'll be very pleased.
JMHO,......but I would not used cross-drilled rotors in these sizes for track use due to cracking problems. Use either plain or properly slotted ones.
Regarding pads,...there are several options, however you will need track pads along with street pads so you have braking at elevated temperatures since street pads will fail when doing DE events.
Don't overlook brake lines if yours are 10 years old (or more). I prefer SS ones for track use, but they are NOT all alike.
With good fluid, proper pads and rotors, you'll be very pleased.
#5
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I have first hand experience with cross drill rotors cracking on the race track! My spec 911 does very well with plain rotors.
#6
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Stick with stock rotors. They will serve you well and are readily available from a variety of sources. As far as pads go, you said the car will be driven mostly on the street, with a few track days. For now I would stay with a street oriented pad. The Hawk HPS is a nice street pad that will take light track use (if you are a beginner on the track). They don't make as much dust as other street compounds. If you start doing more track events, and the car starts seeing less street use, then you should consider a more track oriented pad.
Like others have said, definitely replace the brake lines, and flush the brake system. ATE Gold is a good choice, and also reasonably priced and readily available.
We do have rotors and pads for your car in stock at OG Racing and would love to assist you if we can. if you have any questions, shoot me a PM, or give us a call at 800-934-9112.
Kind regards,
Mark
Like others have said, definitely replace the brake lines, and flush the brake system. ATE Gold is a good choice, and also reasonably priced and readily available.
We do have rotors and pads for your car in stock at OG Racing and would love to assist you if we can. if you have any questions, shoot me a PM, or give us a call at 800-934-9112.
Kind regards,
Mark
#7
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Just a little more infor to ad to the maze. I used Pagid Black in the fron and Performance Friction 967 pads in the rear on my dedicated 911 SC track car. Balnce was perfect for me