Shannon123

Hey guys....back in the hunt. My father was taken from us recently after a 14 month battle with Leukemia and my focus has obviosly been with spending as much time with him as possible.....to all those who are mid-aged, please, go hug your parents, you just don't realize what it means to them.

I have located a car that meets my fancy, however, I would appreciate any advice on further questions I should ask seller.

The car does have the tensioner upgrade, however, apparently the value cover ? pop-off was never done. It has 50k miles and only 1200 over past 8 years with current owner. It does have welded turbo look (i like) appearance, rust free, no oil leaks, clean interior (8 out of 10) and exterior w/original paint (8 out of 10) and sport seats.

I have PPI pending....but wanted to get feedback on SC precautions. I know a car with low milage can be oil leak problems. I am awaiting list of upgrade items as I type. No, I don't like the wheels on it either.

I've tried to include a few pics...hope they upload.

Shannon123

PICS

500

Hey, I am sorry to hear about your father’s struggle. That sort of situation is hard on all, but you did the right thing.

That car certainly looks decent in pictures, so if the price range is where you think it should be, then it definitely could be a PPI candidate.

Here are some things I would be thinking about (not an exhaustive list, just the main ones):

1) Make sure that whoever does the PPI removes the valve covers and checks for broken head studs (this will add cost – replacement gaskets and hardware etc). However, broken head studs are a potential issue in this model/year.

2) Carefully inspect for rust. I assume the car is a Texas car, so corrosion is likely not rampant, but it can happen. Pay particular attention to the battery area, the kidney bowls and the area above the front bumper shocks (hard to see, but worth it to scrutinize).

3) 50K is very low mileage, however, it is also not hard to roll back the odometer on these cars. Do not assume that mileage is correct, ask the mechanic doing the PPI if the car’s condition justifies the low mileage. Not suggesting that it won’t, but something to consider just-in-case. Don’t pay a low mile premium if it is not appropriate.

4) 1200 miles over eight years is not ideal sounding, but it may not be the end of the world either. For example, if this mileage was made up of three equally-spaced 50 mile trips with solid highway running per year, with the car stored in a dry area (and regular oil changes), then that would actually be pretty good. However, if it was fifteen 10-mile trips per year, with the car put away wet with infrequent oil changes, that would be pretty bad. I would try and suss out of the current owner how he/she used the car (in casual conversation). The PPI should give you an idea about the overall leakiness of the motor…

5) Ask about oil consumption. Obviously someone can lie, but if they give you a precise answer and come across as honest, then that is a good sign. Also, do the engine braking test described by Peter Zimmermann in his PPI sticky at the top of this forum to get an idea whether there is a significant oil burning problem on the way.

6) Assuming the flares were done “aftermarket” then I would want to have the bodywork quality critically assessed.

7) Despite low mileage, assume that all rubber suspension bushings will need to be replaced. Budget a few thousand dollars extra over and above the purchase price for setting things in order after purchase.

ron mcatee

If you do buy it, I'd take the smog pump off completely and put it in a box...Texas doesn't require it like California or some other states. also, replace old cumbersome York compressor with a smooth rotary compressor. Plus all the other stuff previously mentioned.

Shannon123

Thanks for the input so far.

As the story goes, thru casual conversation, the car was orginally an east coast car owned by an older gentleman who had done quite a bit of work to it. The current owner (62 years old) who lives in Boise bought the car sight unseen and said he was very happy with what he got, however, work got in the way of pleasure and he just rarely drove it and now his toys are for sale. So, both owners basically treated the car as a GQ. Nonetheless, I am still trying to gather documentation of what has been done with the car.

Andy Kay

Sorry to hear about your Dad. I lost mine 3 years ago after a long battle with heart trouble.

I removed the smog pump and changed the York compressor too. I would also remove the phone!

It's been said the SC is bullet proof. I have a 79 and won't ever sell it. I sold my 79 Targa and was sorry I did. If you don't like the wheels, Fuchs can be bought at swap meets fairly cheap.

I didn't see the asking price. Good luck with PPI. Remember it's 33 years old and hasn't been driven much! Seats look like they could use some Griot's Leather Care. How's the dash? Looks like an aftermarket 4 vented AC unit, how's it work?

I would suggest buying Wayne's book, 101 Projects For Your Porsche and Peter Zimmermann's book, The Used 911 Story. No affiliation to either just good books to have if you own an SC.

Driveway pic looks good-nice hips! I didn't think the 78 came with headlight washers. My 79's didn't.

Shannon123

Great input guys...thanks.

Can anyone help me identify these wheels ? If i get the car, the first thing I would like to do is add a set of these to it.

Ed Hughes

Sorry about your dad.

How can a turbo look conversion have original paint? It may be a nice car, minus the wheels, but it should not command top dollar.

Busta Rib

They look like Gotti wheels, or a reasonable facsimile. BTW, are all of those extra vents in the lower dash OEM? I don't have them in my 80. Just curious. Best of luck with this one, Shannon. I know you have been looking for awhile. Condolences to you and your family.

Brett San Diego

They look similar to the Kinesis K59.

http://www.kinesismotorsports.com/forged3.php?wheelID=3

But, I think several wheel companies make something similar to that.

I have to admit, I kinda like what's on there now. Looks period correct somehow, whatever they are. Any clue what they are? Are the "disks" actually the wheel metal or a cover up stuck on the outside?

Brett

John H

Looks like an aftermarket AC system to me. Maybe it works better than the factory system. I remember boiling away in my 83 but I was afraid to roll down the window because it "might" be hotter outside.

Brett San Diego

One thing worth being aware of is that it is the lower mileage cars that seem more likely to break head studs. I'd have this kind of work allowed for in your budget.

Brett

Shannon123

You know...every time I get answers here, I say to mself, why didn't I see that ? Ed, no question, right on about the paint. John/Busta, thanks, I was looking at this pristine one on EBAY and the A/C is definately wrong. Brett....I was going to have head studs reviewed on PPI, but are you saying regardless, if they are not broken already, its very much an issue going forward ? I mean, I drive like an old lady.

Brett San Diego

Yes, if this engine has the original dilavar studs on the exhaust side, then they are a looming problem going forward. The theory on low mileage cars is thought to involve corrosion on the studs. The heat of the running engine drives moisture off the studs thereby affording some protection from corrosion. A 911 that sits for long periods of time doesn't get heat cycled to drive off moisture, and so corrosion has a much better chance to set in on the studs.

I experienced this (to the best of my knowledge) with my car. I say, "to the best of my knowledge," because my 1978 911SC's odometer showed 44,000 miles when I purchased it in 2004. I had limited records to back this up, but the two that I did have were from the original owner and within a few years, so I tend to believe it was a 44,000 mile car (but we all know how easy it is to roll back these odometers). Anyway, I did a valve adjustment myself shortly after purchase, and the studs were in place. When I went to perform a second valve adjustment at 54,000 miles, a broken exhaust-side stud fell from the valve cover. I was told by an experienced air-cooled 911 mechanic that he has seen it often that studs break on a low mile 911 when the 911 is returned to more routine service.

It doesn't have much to do with how you drive, I don't think. It has to do with the fact that the engine is going through expansion cycles more often after the corrosion has set in on the studs in its previous low mileage life.

Brett

Shannon123

Brett, makes perfect sense to me.....I'll pay much closer attention to your Head Stud thread.