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What motor would you recommend for a long nose?

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Old 03-03-2011, 12:43 AM
  #31  
Eharrison
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Originally Posted by TT Oversteer
I really liked my 78 SC 3.0 motor with 915 trans that I had in my 69T. It had 46mm PMO carbs, reground web cams, euro carrera distributor, SSI/sport muffler exhaust. It had instant throttle response and plenty of power. Bottom end all stock. Simple and not super $$$.

I now have a 3.2 in a 77S. It has a Steve Wong chip, cat bypass and M&K muffler. Very reliable, good starting, idling, economy and low emissions. Just isn't quite as exciting as the 3.0 was. Torquey but relatively lazy throttle response.

In a smog exempt lightweight early car I would go with the carbureted 3.0! I would redline it daily just for the sheer pleasure of the intake noise!

Great project...........enjoy!
Originally Posted by Jay Gratton
Big fan of the 3.0 or 3.2 with carbs and other small mods. You want to be driving the car on the weekends and not working on it. Buy and SC/80's 3.2 and build it to look old is the way I would go.
Originally Posted by whalebird
If you have a good early chassis, the 3.2/915 is an outstanding combo. Like Pete Z says, a good oil cooler is needed. A 3.6 in an early chassis is a big job. That much torque needs to be managed. Backdating a later car can also be a big job if all the details are looked after, but a very sensible exercise indeed.
There are lots of 3.0 SC motors available and make a very nice combo as well.
This seems to be the concensus, although a 3.6 would be nice and meaty.

Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann
'75 or earlier car in CA = no smog tests.

Ed, I built my 2.6 when Mahles were $2K, and Solex "4.2" camshafts and 2.2 liter cylinder heads were available. Today it would be an expensive engine to build, but with the right machine shop taking care of things like case savers and cylinder heads...

Your questions really depend on you, and what you expect the car to be. For me, a slightly peaky, smaller displacement engine with carbs brings a lot of early car magic to the party. When you plug in an SC or 3.2 motor a lot of that magic goes away, unless you do cams and carbs on the SC. But it still isn't the same, the visceral component kinda goes away.

I guess that maybe I'm in the minority on this one regarding engine choice, but that said I also wouldn't do a Targa as an early car project. Sheer cornering speed with minimal chassis flex is my primary goal with an early car, combined with acceptable lower rev engine performance combined with that wonderful push in the back at 4,000 revs.

In 2000/'01 I built a 2.2 911E, using a '69 912 as the basic tub, for PCA Club Racing. The car was silly quick during testing at Streets of Willow, but the whole project went off the tracks when I had my shoulder surgery. I sold the car to a close friend, in hindsight that was a huge mistake. Even with all of the changes I was able to capture the magic of a good long nose car.

My $0.02...and "my" 2.2 E.
Although if I was going to play on the track more than the road I would most likely go for the coupe but in reality, that's not going to happen until the kids are out of the house, or at least near that point. My goal is a backroad burner that I can enjoy one the weekends. One that's wicked fun on the roads, but sweet to enjoy at a Cars and Coffee. Add the fact that my son asks everytime I look at a car, "Is it a Targa?". That's the main reason.

I've heard the early model engines, but I'm also tainted by Ed's 3.4.


Originally Posted by whalebird
What he said^^^
I would much prefer a period correct engine. Oh what sweetness...makes a 3.2 sound like a lawnmower. Budget is the main factor here. There is no substitute for a smaller displacement/higher revving early car...period.
Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
A 3.2 sounding like a lawnmower? Huh? Maybe the Banshee Corporation's model #666.

Go to about 1 minute in:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtZ2A...e_gdata_player
Originally Posted by whalebird
That's no 3.2....
Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
Only 200cc more....it sounded pretty darned close when it was.
Ha!

Originally Posted by Brett San Diego
A short stroke early engine would be a fun build and a fun drive, but I don't think that best meets your goal of a 300 mile road tripper. My personal choice would be a stock 3.2.

Fun project. Definitely looking forward to hearing more.

I started welding last year. Like you, I got the welder for car projects. It hasn't seen a car part, yet, but I now have a new all-steel workbench/welding table and nice set of custom fitted metal shelves in my garage from my welding exploits. And, I was able to help out my in-laws by welding an ear back on an outdoor metal cat sculpture that they have in their yard. LOL Once you get a welder, projects materialize out of nowhere. I'll start on the 356 body one of these days.

Brett
I remember your "art" when you made your table and had left over parts. I was going to talk to you about your experiences to see what you would have done the second time around.

Originally Posted by whalebird
It's not quantity but quality. Cams my friend, and all that lovely headwork not the bottom end alltogether. The early 915 has a shorter ring/pinion and long legs in the motor. As EPA dictated intake restrictions, the slower turning engines made power down low and that was paired with a little longer final drive to regain some flexibility.
I get what your saying but at the same time I"M re reading it to see where you're headed. Cams, and heads are the way to go with early engines. And the low torque in the newer engines was mated with longer gears? ( I read this this morning and only after reading it tonight I got it.

Originally Posted by Minoclan
No I am not saying that. I am saying that it works really well but I haven't had any other motor in the car so I personally cannot give you comparative results. BTW the air conditioning is gone.
That's a pretty sweet car, I searched for photos of your car and found them last night. Very Nice!

Originally Posted by mclaudio
I vote for an early car - 72/73 with 3.0 and carbs - as a fun project car. Lightweight, reliable, etc. I had a 69 with such a setup. I do prefer the 915 tranny versus 901; hence, the 72/73 option. Otherwise, the 69 models are the lightest (except 67 911R). As I think about the $ to properly backdate an SC or 3.2 Carrera plus the smog reqmnts in CA, I'd find a good solid early chassis first with a good interior. Better yet, you may find ones that are already done at a fraction of the build cost...though this means less of a project for you.

One thought: for a project car, would you rather work on the mechanicals or the body work? I tend to lean towards mechanical work.
Originally Posted by joe1973
My advice is for you to buy someone's work. 70s 911 with 80s 3.2 motor or more. Lots of examples for sale. I bought mine for $30k (73 w/ 3.2 motor) and have owed it for 5 years and counting. Would sell if I could for the same money, but I learned market value is $25k or less so I'm keeping my baby instead of taking a loss on money I don't desperately need. I have a 996GT3 as well, but can honestly say an early 911 is a far more rewarding car to drive especially on the track. Alois Ruf himself said "there is no compensation (HP additions) for a light weight car (vs. newer, heavier cars)". My 73 911 /w 3,2 weights 2,200 lbs. Good luck with your search or build project.
One of the reasons for the project is a hobby for us. I figure starting from scratch is the way to go.


Originally Posted by rusnak
That magical torque/ gearing combo is what makes the difference between a buzzbomb and a fun car. The 3.2 folds space/ time so effortlessly compared to the 914, which has to work for it, and the SC, which is no fun around town.
Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
I really like the tq in the 3.4 now. It comes on low and flat. The 993 doesn't wake up until 4500, and then pulls fast. When I drive that, I'm shifting like a madman.

When I drive Ruby, the torque and the longer gear diffs make it feel like a dragster with a 2 speed Torquegflite trans-it seems like it goes a long time between shifts. Must be the time/space continueum that rusnak refers to.
I'm thinking 3.0-3.4.... Seems to be the reasonable way to go, but then again, I have been known to change my mind.
Old 03-03-2011, 12:55 AM
  #32  
Eharrison
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I did go look at a 1971 E Targa. Most of the body is great, four areas I could find were in the nose the small flange in front is rusted (not the whole front clip), the drivers door frame in the rear bottom corner, and the passenger rocker, and the front suspension pan. The areas I was worried about were fine. The corners of the windshield and the rear engine bay were nice. The car is packed in a corner of a lot and it isn't possible to get a good photo of the whole car. Here's some photos, take it in to consideratoin that I'm not looking for a pristine example, but more of a project that isn't a lost cause but then again not just a bolt up.

Can anyone give me some input on the 5th photo and the suspension set up and if this is typical of a 71? Or is it an update?
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Old 03-03-2011, 01:11 AM
  #33  
Ed Hughes
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Are you going to the swap meet in Anaheim this Sunday? You never know what you may see.

Lots of choices!

With all due respect to Pete, a Targa makes a fine hot rod, particularly where we live. The truth is that most mortals would not suffer any ill from body flex. Mark Donahue was actually fond of a Targa's handling and preferred it on a track when compared to a stock coupe. For a race car: no doubt a coupe is superior.
Old 03-03-2011, 01:31 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
Are you going to the swap meet in Anaheim this Sunday? You never know what you may see.
Lots of choices!

With all due respect to Pete, a Targa makes a fine hot rod, particularly where we live. The truth is that most mortals would not suffer any ill from body flex. Mark Donahue was actually fond of a Targa's handling and preferred it on a track when compared to a stock coupe. For a race car: no doubt a coupe is superior.
I am now!

As for the Targa, the family and I were in LaJolla the other day and I watched a couple cruising down LaJolla Shores Dr. in a long hood targa. Top off, sunny outside and it was February.....
Old 03-07-2011, 09:30 AM
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herman maire
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it has a late model carrera sway bar that attaches to the control arms , the correct sway bar goes through the body and pops out on each side above where the rubber break line connects to the solid line on the body.

Also looks like an aluminum front suspension cross member. If it is the car probably had a complete late model carrera suspension installed.
Old 03-07-2011, 10:09 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by herman maire
it has a late model carrera sway bar that attaches to the control arms , the correct sway bar goes through the body and pops out on each side above where the rubber break line connects to the solid line on the body.

Also looks like an aluminum front suspension cross member. If it is the car probably had a complete late model carrera suspension installed.
Thanks, what would be a better set up? Late model or original?
Old 03-07-2011, 10:15 AM
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Yes, that does look like a later front set up. The thru-body front sway bar is the prefered method however. Does the car have alloy rear trailing arms? just curious.
Old 03-07-2011, 10:33 AM
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Late model - has wider bolt spacing for the calipers - bigger TB - AL trailing arms. Do that - and go with either rebel racing or elephant racing suspension bushings. - Tarret sways - and beefy 22/28 TB and you;ll be pleased.

I too like the 3.4/993 SS cam combo - flat torque - and almost pulls like a turbo above 4500 rpms (but drives like a normal carrera around town)
Old 03-07-2011, 10:43 AM
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Charlie/Tarret, and especially Smart racing sways are pretty.
Old 03-07-2011, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by whalebird
Yes, that does look like a later front set up. The thru-body front sway bar is the prefered method however. Does the car have alloy rear trailing arms? just curious.
I believe these are steel?
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Old 03-07-2011, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by g-50cab
Late model - has wider bolt spacing for the calipers - bigger TB - AL trailing arms. Do that - and go with either rebel racing or elephant racing suspension bushings. - Tarret sways - and beefy 22/28 TB and you;ll be pleased.

I too like the 3.4/993 SS cam combo - flat torque - and almost pulls like a turbo above 4500 rpms (but drives like a normal carrera around town)
The owner want's the front suspension but I think I can keep it with the car. What would a used set up like that cost? Arms + spindles. I'm keeping the AL crossmember. He wants to put in a period correct suspension and use the update for another project.

What do you guys think?
Old 03-07-2011, 01:07 PM
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Al crossmember is not critical - the weight savings is negligible - the weight (if there) is actually where you want it (low towards the front and in between the wheels) and if you go with a bigger MC - the steel one gives you just a tad more room (you'll have to notch the AL one)
Old 03-07-2011, 01:21 PM
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Oh, didn't think about it that way regarding the center of gravity. I'm still trying to figure out "MC"?

And all of this is irrelevant if I want to put coilovers on right? Are coilovers overkill?
Old 03-07-2011, 01:27 PM
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Master cylinder?
Old 03-07-2011, 01:28 PM
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master cylinder - if you put on bigger brakes - you'll need a bigger master cylinder - which means you need more room for a MC - hence my post.

Coilovers are great - but then you should really rework the tub - put gussets in to strengthen. since you are doing that - may as well strip and repaint. Make room for a nose cooler... Slippery slope.


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