Amber Gramps

Are you back form your Alaska trip yet?

I just want you to be good and hungry.

smshirk

great thread. May be I can get my heat fixed now!

Shadetree930

Read through this thread as well. It could be your microswitches inside the console.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-9...l-blowers.html

ivangene

man this took off... must be that time of year when people want heat?

my car has the two red levers and a big ole' dial 1-2-3 so I am not much help. Best of luck I will try and follow your progress

sig_a

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Pop off the small inspection cover on the right side of the auto heat box. Stick your hand into the box and feel if the rod is (a) moving as you click the center switch, (b) that the rod is firmly attached at both ends. This is really simple stuff. I bet that one end of the rod is not attached.

sig_a

Here's a reprint from Pelican
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Shadetree930
I'm with Bill



Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 920
Update .....

I had the car in for a pre TurboPalooza track day inspection.

While the car was up in the air for wheel balancing I took the opportunity to sneak underneath and look at my "damper vents" coming off the heat exchangers just before the heat plumbing goes into the body.

I had turned the autoheat switch to defrost so the dampers should have been fully closed. They were not! Both were wide open. Ah ... some indication of my problem. I know that the footwell blowers will not come on if these dampers are open (to prevent a blast of cold air on startup) therefore my problem may not be an electrical circuit per-se.

In order to solve the problem, I must figure out why the damper vents are not closing.

Since I can hear the servo running when the switch is turned, I know the servo is good. I pulled the passenger seat and opened the access panel to the console to verify this was true ... it was. The servo was functioning as designed. But ... I could see that the rod operated by the servo had detached at the rear ball joint connection. Closer inspection revealed that the tiny clasp that locks the rod onto the ball had broken thus allowing the rod to slip off. It seems (after knowing the search string) this is a common failure.

.... Damper vents open ... no hot air to the temp sensor ... footwell blowers are not going to come on .... nope .. not gonna happen ...

So ..... new ball joint caps are on order. I will replace them, and then see if this solves the footwell blower issue.

Maybe a pictoral how-to for this repair is in order? We will see how my temperment is when I start the replacement.
__________________
Paul
87 930 GP White
87 911 Targa Guards Red(Sold)
Last edited by Shadetree930; 06-09-2009 at 09:22 PM..
06-09-2009, 08:28 PM

AJ88CAB

Don't know if you have determined the probelm yet, but in reading the thread I noticed the above comment. The ignition switch has three positions (let's call them: ON-RUN-START). Just to be sure, if you are testing with the engine not running I believe the ignition switch needs to be at the second "click" position (RUN) for the heater blowers to work. At least that is how it works on my manual heat car.

Marlon Targa 86

Yup, I check it with the ignition in the correct position.

Here is my plan so far

1. check if the blower work with a straight current
2. check the voltages
3. check relay
4. check in-line fuses at footwell blowers
6. check the servo rod

I'll keep you guys updated.

Marlon

Marlon Targa 86

Ok, so:

1. butterfly valves don't close when I turn the heat on ( I can hear the servo running in the center console )

2. I don't get any current when I test voltage coming out of the cable plugged in the heater blower

What's next?

Marlon

rusnak

You need a wiring diagram. The heater relay is just upstream I think. Have you got a Bentley manual? The contacts in the servo switch console may not be closing also.

Ed Hughes

Start by checking the end of the servo rod and reconnect. Should have been step 1.

rusnak

On my '84 with sport seats, both seats have to come out before removing the heater console - especially if you're trying to be kind to the brittle plastic. So that step is a pain in the butt, although it probably is the next logical step.

Marlon Targa 86

Man, sorry.

I DO get current when I test voltage coming out of the cable plugged in the heater blower.

I will check the rod and the servo

rusnak

It sounds like the blower motor is toast. You might take it apart and take a look at the brushes. They are the spring loaded block looking things that rub on the part that spins. Most likey one or both is completely worn down and either fallen out or close to it.

Marlon Targa 86

Checked the servo rod and ... the connector has snapped off. It's broken. So that explains the butterfly valves not opening. Going to replace both "*****".

Now I'm going to check to heater blower. I'm going to take it off and see what's wrong with. Hopefully I can rebuild it.

Making progress !

Marlon