It's the little things.... stripped transmission drain plug.
09-22-2010, 12:01 AM
#16
I haddah Google dat
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Man, that's great!
On mine, I used a nipple extractor, heat, chisel, air chisel, and the usual assortment of pipe wrenches and Vise Grips. The threaded portion is pretty much toast, and I prefer to suction the old oil out through the top.
I could probably sacrifice the gasket, but that seems like more work and a lot more hassle. I will have no choice if it starts leaking.
On mine, I used a nipple extractor, heat, chisel, air chisel, and the usual assortment of pipe wrenches and Vise Grips. The threaded portion is pretty much toast, and I prefer to suction the old oil out through the top.
I could probably sacrifice the gasket, but that seems like more work and a lot more hassle. I will have no choice if it starts leaking.
09-22-2010, 09:10 AM
#17
Team Owner
Ed it is not really about the cost at all .. it is more about the availability of parts .. for me to get that gasket would take about a week. No body hear stocks parts for our generation of cars unfortnately .
My 944 had the allen plug and it was a nightmare .. i found a nut that was very close ... had a bolt screwed in and welded to the nut .. then tack welded the nut to the plug working around the rear axle. It was a nightmare and i was sweating all the way out but it did come out .. When i put the new plug in it certainly wasn't as smooth as i would have liked but it did not strip and tightened okay ..
My 944 had the allen plug and it was a nightmare .. i found a nut that was very close ... had a bolt screwed in and welded to the nut .. then tack welded the nut to the plug working around the rear axle. It was a nightmare and i was sweating all the way out but it did come out .. When i put the new plug in it certainly wasn't as smooth as i would have liked but it did not strip and tightened okay ..
Last edited by theiceman; 09-23-2010 at 04:56 PM.
09-23-2010, 12:20 AM
#18
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You are not alone. Some helpful threads onthe topic:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ller-plug.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...lp-please.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...rain-plug.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ller-plug.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...lp-please.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...rain-plug.html
09-23-2010, 01:02 AM
#20
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Glad to contribute something.
Happily (for me), my car has the "outie" plugs in the transmission. It seems it was not a change for the better to go to the "innies".
Happily (for me), my car has the "outie" plugs in the transmission. It seems it was not a change for the better to go to the "innies".
09-23-2010, 11:07 AM
#21
Race Car
Good work. the rule here is to go in and out with the proper tool. A big 17mm allen is available at most parts stores. No need to tighten like mad, the pipe-threaded plug gets tight quick with a minimum of torque from the allen being use. Just snug them nicely.
09-23-2010, 02:50 PM
#23
I haddah Google dat
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I have been thinking back to my situation.
The PO probably used a standard allen wrench for quite some time, and overtightened the plug by a lot, and rounded out the plug. I tried a lot of things and now the plug sides are pretty much gone.
I tried drilling it with my cordless drill and a titanium tipped drill bit, but it was slow going and I pretty much barely scratched the surface. What kind of drill would drill that plug out? Once I start, I am committed, so I would want to buy the best, cost is no object easy-out in advance...in order to know what size hole to drill.
The PO probably used a standard allen wrench for quite some time, and overtightened the plug by a lot, and rounded out the plug. I tried a lot of things and now the plug sides are pretty much gone.
I tried drilling it with my cordless drill and a titanium tipped drill bit, but it was slow going and I pretty much barely scratched the surface. What kind of drill would drill that plug out? Once I start, I am committed, so I would want to buy the best, cost is no object easy-out in advance...in order to know what size hole to drill.
09-23-2010, 04:58 PM
#24
Team Owner
I use breand new carbide bits and they go through that stuff pretty eassy .. However that would be a total last resort for me as you would end up with shards of metal inside the case no matter how carefull you are ..
09-23-2010, 05:30 PM
#25
Race Car
rus. If the air hammer didn't get it, I would be discouraged. Its a bit tricky, but you may want to wait till the next time it comes out on the bench. Drill a pilot hole and keep stepping up. Fouling up the drain plug could kill the car where it sits if you know what I mean.
09-23-2010, 05:41 PM
#26
I haddah Google dat
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Yeah when the air hammer didn't budge it, I gave up. The nightmare scenario is to break off a cheap easy out in there.
You guys are talkin me back away from the ledge......
You guys are talkin me back away from the ledge......
09-23-2010, 11:50 PM
#28
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Over at the Bird, Peter Zimmerman sez:
JUST MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE LOOSENED THE FILL PLUG BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE DRAIN PLUG!!! If the fill plug is as bad, engine & trans removal will probably be necessary.
When I've come across plugs like yours the first thing that I do is use an assortment of punches to cut two grooves 180 degrees apart into the protruding end of the plug. Then I use a really beefy flat-ended punch, place its tip into either groove (on an angle which will encourage the plug to move counter-clockwise) and whack the punch with a heavy hammer. Once. Then I reposition everything, and do the same in the other groove. Once. Back and forth, back and forth. The plug will usually start to turn after about 20-30 hits.
I know people who weld a bolt to the plug, but for me the fire danger for that method is too high.
If the punches don't work, you can find the center of the plug, drill a small pilot hole into it, then find your biggest, most expensive, easy-out in your tool box and drill a hole that it will grab. This method is really messy because trans oil will run out through your drilled hole - better let it drain for about an hour - WITH THE FILL PLUG REMOVED! Getting as close to plug center is critical because you want (1) easy-out forces to be equal, or (2) if you have to drill enough of the old plug out you want to be as close to the diff housing threads as you can get but not damage them.
However you do it your goal is to not damage the diff housing. I don't envy you, good luck with it. Make sure that your car is well supported so that it can't fall while you're under it working.
When I've come across plugs like yours the first thing that I do is use an assortment of punches to cut two grooves 180 degrees apart into the protruding end of the plug. Then I use a really beefy flat-ended punch, place its tip into either groove (on an angle which will encourage the plug to move counter-clockwise) and whack the punch with a heavy hammer. Once. Then I reposition everything, and do the same in the other groove. Once. Back and forth, back and forth. The plug will usually start to turn after about 20-30 hits.
I know people who weld a bolt to the plug, but for me the fire danger for that method is too high.
If the punches don't work, you can find the center of the plug, drill a small pilot hole into it, then find your biggest, most expensive, easy-out in your tool box and drill a hole that it will grab. This method is really messy because trans oil will run out through your drilled hole - better let it drain for about an hour - WITH THE FILL PLUG REMOVED! Getting as close to plug center is critical because you want (1) easy-out forces to be equal, or (2) if you have to drill enough of the old plug out you want to be as close to the diff housing threads as you can get but not damage them.
However you do it your goal is to not damage the diff housing. I don't envy you, good luck with it. Make sure that your car is well supported so that it can't fall while you're under it working.
09-24-2010, 12:01 AM
#30
I haddah Google dat
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I see the good doctor recommends using your best and perhaps biggest easy out. I was thinking about slowing the drill to let the metal flakes fall downward.