911vet

What are your guys thinking? I'm talking about the suspension on the Track Cab of course.

First, torsion bars. Stock is 19mm front, 25mm rear.

I'm thinking of going to 21 and 27. That keeps the ratio similar (I'm guessing it actually changes it some since I doubt it's a linear change?).

I know some go to 30 in the rear, but I'm leary of that on a car that does still spend some time on the road. Also, it is a Cabriolet and I imagine I can go too stiff on that chasis?

Recommendations of brand of t-bar? Hollow? Solid?

Next.. bushings. Is Elephant Poly Bronze the way to go? Front and rear?

Thanks.

old man neri

From what I have heard you also need to change the struts/shocks if you are stiffening up the t bars.

Also, I think you need a different colour tape on your headlights. Maybe a blue? And don't forget your fogs and turn signals. Those lens can be expensive.

-matt

911vet

I installed Bilstein HDs a few months ago. You don't think that's enough for 21/27 t-bars?

Blue tape? I'm thinking checkered flag next time.

Ed Hughes

I think that could be a nice improvement and not too stiff. I've been running 22/29 solid for a few years and my sport Bilsteins were fine with them. But, to go to the next level, I just had mine revalved to match the t-bars and will be able to start testing this setup as of tomorrow. You may be a bit oriented to a slight understeer in that t-bar combo. That is not to say it is a bad one, I think there are more than a few cars out there with those.

The elephant poly-b's and monoballs were the very first things I did to my suspension, and were a drastic improvement, probably the best single change I made to my car, over the tired stock rubber bits. Don't let anyone tell you they are too harsh for the street, that is a comment made by those not in the know, IMO.

Ed Hughes

Oh, for headlight protection, look at this company. I've got H1's, which are almost unobtanium, and have been running these for a few years now. Don't forget, the street is as bad as or worse than the track.

http://www.xpel.com/

rusnak

I think a call to Elephant or TRG might be in order. They should have the right info to match the t-bars with what you already have on the car.

Amber Gramps

Shannon, you really need to call Steve Weiner. This may sound dirty.......but, go to the Elephant Racing website for a visual on all the "systems that work togeather" then buy them from Steve. Here's why.....SERVICE AND HUMAN ADVICE. You can find deals online that could save you 10%, BUT you will get no live advice. Let's put it this way...Steve will go to the track with you. OK, so his phone # will go with you. Anyway I'm glad to see the addiction is worsening.

911tracker85

Ed Hughes

Doug, just to be clear: Chuck Moreland @ Elephant does give live advice. It's his passion and knowledge that has resulted in the innovative products they sell. He's helped many a 911 owner, and while he doesn't come on here much, is on Pelican quite a bit answering suspension questions. That's not a knock against Steve, but rather a clarification on Chuck's/Elephant's customer service.

MUSSBERGER

I am running the same thing as Ed. I have the revalved Bilsteins and TRG adjustable sways, TRG monoballs, Poly bronze bushings, and Weltmeister adjustable spring plates. That thing would kill me on the street.

Amber Gramps

Thanks Ed, that is my ignorance showing through. I've grown to like Steve and simply did not know more about Elephant. I do know Steve carries all his products.

I think the point I was trying to make is that money can be saved by shopping online at the expence of service. I wasn't at all trying to give equipment advice....could you imagine.

Ed Hughes

I understand totally! About you being ignorant, that is. Just kidding, of course. You are 100% correct about cheap prices not necessarily being the best in the long run. Thank goodness, or I'd be flipping burgers for a living and hanging out on the Yugo forums.

g-50cab

Remember too that any car will be a compromise. Just right on the track means too stiff for the street. Just right for the street means it will wallow at the track. Position your comfort meter somewhere between them.

Edward

Huge +1 to getting Steve and Chuck's advice. Both excellent fellows from whom I have gotten much direction/advice over the years.

That said, don't discount the experience from others who track your same car. They've gone through the trial/error and are typically candid about the gains/shortcomings of their setup (gauge their experience, of course).

FWIW, I think that for a cab that will see more-than-occasional street use, I'd go with 21/28 T-bars ...it's not too stiff, won't rattle dentures, but dials out some of that understeer at turn-in that is built into these cars. FWIW, I ran 22/28s and that left me wanting more bar at the rear (of which I do now, after I had spent the time, money, and energy redoing my work ...see what I mean ). And 21/28s will work well and in no way will overwealm a set of fresh HDs. Hollow doesn't get you anyting except shaving a couple of pounds. More important than solid vs hollow is that they are good bars. This is not a job you want to do again as it is time consuming, labor-intensive, not to mention will cost you in additional alignments/corner balancing.

Bushings ...well Chuck's PB ones are superb by everyone's testimonies. I just chose to go simpler installation/cheaper with poly/graphite. So far (maybe three years of track), zero squeaks and good control of the rear end. Just a thought.

Edward

rusnak

All good advice. I also want to add that Steve is a brake and engine performance guru too, just to keep in mind. I have spoken to and purchased from Chuck many times, and think highly of him.