Brake problems. Really need help on this one as the clock is ticking.
#17
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#18
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#19
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#21
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Fail. Basically the problem has not occured again so it is impossible to determine if anything I do solves a non-existent problem.
I inspected all corners and saw nothing obviously wrong. I bleed about 2 quarts of fluid through and no bubbles came out.
After the bleed the brakes felt firmer but by the end of the test drive they went back to the way it was, which is to say, a little softer. This may still be the brakes still seating themselves after the reseal. I imagine it takes a while in a colder climate.
Last spring I was installing a cat bypass and noticed that my rear bad was pretty low. So I ordered brakes pads for both front and back. Upon replacing them I noticed it was only that one rear pad that was low and the rest were fine. It was really hard to push that cylinder back in but I did. After that the brakes were never the same again. Upon the advice of people here I was told to reseal the brakes. So I did, the cylinders all looked fine and the bores were clean as well. Just a bunch of grime in the bore after the the seal close to the end of the bore. Cleaned and resealed........Now here I am. The brakes still don't feel the same as when I bought the damned car. This is getting very frustrating.
I am at a loss.....please, someone help. I really don't want to have to fly to California and kidnap Pete Zimmerman.
-matt
I inspected all corners and saw nothing obviously wrong. I bleed about 2 quarts of fluid through and no bubbles came out.
After the bleed the brakes felt firmer but by the end of the test drive they went back to the way it was, which is to say, a little softer. This may still be the brakes still seating themselves after the reseal. I imagine it takes a while in a colder climate.
Last spring I was installing a cat bypass and noticed that my rear bad was pretty low. So I ordered brakes pads for both front and back. Upon replacing them I noticed it was only that one rear pad that was low and the rest were fine. It was really hard to push that cylinder back in but I did. After that the brakes were never the same again. Upon the advice of people here I was told to reseal the brakes. So I did, the cylinders all looked fine and the bores were clean as well. Just a bunch of grime in the bore after the the seal close to the end of the bore. Cleaned and resealed........Now here I am. The brakes still don't feel the same as when I bought the damned car. This is getting very frustrating.
I am at a loss.....please, someone help. I really don't want to have to fly to California and kidnap Pete Zimmerman.
-matt
#23
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a simple question here: Did you put the calipers back on the corner they cam from. Make sure the bleeder is at the top of the caliper - not the bottom.
Also what year?
Also what year?
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#26
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Well I 'pumped' while each bleeder was open. I pressed on the pedal (with a 2X4 due to the hoist) making sure the pedal travel did not exceed normal travel limits.
Basically I hit the pedal hard during the first go around and then the two other go around I did not touch the pedals. No bubbles were seen at all.
Thoughts?
#27
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I doubt this is related, but you haven't mentioned the clutch in this. Did you bleed the clutch slave cylinder too? The fluid is shared. If we are all thinking there's air in the system that could be where it's hiding.
It's a bugger to bleed - I ended up taking a bath in fluid when the hose came off and I was under it.
It's a bugger to bleed - I ended up taking a bath in fluid when the hose came off and I was under it.
#28
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I doubt this is related, but you haven't mentioned the clutch in this. Did you bleed the clutch slave cylinder too? The fluid is shared. If we are all thinking there's air in the system that could be where it's hiding.
It's a bugger to bleed - I ended up taking a bath in fluid when the hose came off and I was under it.
It's a bugger to bleed - I ended up taking a bath in fluid when the hose came off and I was under it.
#29
I haddah Google dat
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I went through this last year after a front brake caliper rebuild.
I use and like the Motive BB. But now and then you get some pesky air that won't come out. That's when you have to switch to more desperate measures, like doing a 2 man bleed, or use the gravity method. I usually opt for a brake pedal bleed which shoots a lot of fluid and all air out into a mayonaise jar that I have connected to the brake caliper bleed screw.
You can get clear refrigerator tubing at Orchard Supply Hardware for a 2 man brake bleeding. Also, bleed brakes with El Cheapo brake fluid, then switch to the high grade stuff after the air is out.
Next time you rebuild calipers, might want to lube the pistons with Ate Brake Caliper Grease. Also, make sure the brake rotors are very clean and the pads are not contaminated with grease or brake fluid. This will cause pulling to one side.
I use and like the Motive BB. But now and then you get some pesky air that won't come out. That's when you have to switch to more desperate measures, like doing a 2 man bleed, or use the gravity method. I usually opt for a brake pedal bleed which shoots a lot of fluid and all air out into a mayonaise jar that I have connected to the brake caliper bleed screw.
You can get clear refrigerator tubing at Orchard Supply Hardware for a 2 man brake bleeding. Also, bleed brakes with El Cheapo brake fluid, then switch to the high grade stuff after the air is out.
Next time you rebuild calipers, might want to lube the pistons with Ate Brake Caliper Grease. Also, make sure the brake rotors are very clean and the pads are not contaminated with grease or brake fluid. This will cause pulling to one side.
#30
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I ditched my Motive a couple of years ago, I hated cleaning it up after, and it seems I could only remember to pinch the MC vent hose 1 out of 2 times.
Speed Bleeders are what I use now, and allow a proper pedal bleed with no helper.
Speed Bleeders are what I use now, and allow a proper pedal bleed with no helper.