abe

Its nice to read about this stuff so it can prepare you for these events. Because of this site I knew that if my 83SC got too hot (as it did waiting in line at burger joint) the starter..most likely the solenoid, wouldn't work. Sure enough, after I ate my burger in the parking lot...no start. Thanks to this site I didn't call AAA nor my wife..I just went for a walk and 1/2 hr later it started. I know I can upgrade the starter...but too cheap to do it. I am only mentioning this so that the new guys are aware of this problem.
thanks for those who posted before,
abe

theiceman

Abe.


keep in mind there are 2 common isues here andd we should be clear. heat soaked starters will create a " no cranK" condition, and therefore no start. A lot of people do upgrade to high torque starters to remidy this or get reconditioned starters.

The second hot no start condition is a car that will crank but not start after it has warmed up. If the car cranks but just will not start when warm, but starts fine cold is usually due to a bad fuel accumulator. The fuel accumulator had a diaphragm and a spring that keeps the fuel pressure up when there is no cold start assist once the engine warms up. Some times the diaphragm can leak and you will not be able to start it warm

again , just to clarify .

931GT

And if its the latter the only thing you need to do to diagnose the problem is open the screw at the bottom of the fuel accumulator. If fuel comes out then the accumulator needs to be replaced.

abe

My problem was the first...no click no nothing not even a whisper...DOA! I was going to tap it with a hammer...too fat and to hot under there. Let is cool off....rooooom roooom off I went.
abe

rnln

There is a yellow wire running from the ignition key to the rear on the right of the engine, and up, then across the firewall to the left, and to the 14 pins connector at the fuse box. Then to the engine and back down to the starter. Poke into the yellow wire to measure the voltage of this wire near the fuse box while the problem exist, during twisting your key trying to start.
On my car, when it happenning, I have really low voltage. Usually it is around 11.xx volts. My temp solution is to connect a wire there and give it a 12v source when it's happening.

RoninLB

starters get exposed to abnormal heat.

one theory is that the solenoid plunger expands and creates more friction against the cylinder demanding more amps. The other 1/2 of theory says the solenoid plunger's grease dries out and combined with heat creates friction demanding more amps.

The greater the amp draw the greater the wiring is stressed and the lower the voltage measured. Every wire connector has a voltage drop. From switch, to under dash bulkhead connector, to a Y connector for AC in trunk, to the 14 pin, to the solenoid. A 30-40 year old wire is no prize either. It's a perfect storm imo.

Many ways to attack this issue. Different strokes for different folks.

rnln

Do you know where is that Y connector located?

RoninLB

I found mine under the gauges or laying around on the floor on the drivers side.


you can't miss it

all 3 wires at the Y are yellow