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Electric seat button cover

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Old Jan 4, 2003 | 12:42 PM
  #1  
Bill W.'s Avatar
Bill W.
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From: Newark, DE
Post Electric seat button cover

The black 4-way arrow switch cover broke off on the pass. side seat (the seatback recline sw). The switch itself was working fine before the cover broke but I can't operate the switch w/o the cover. Any ideas on how/where to get a switchcover? I believe the new switches are fairly expensive and since my switch itself is OK I'd rather not go that route if I don't need to.

The Bently manual has next to nothing on the seat, how difficult is it to remove the switch if I need to?

Bill W.
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Old Jan 4, 2003 | 01:21 PM
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Bill,

Here's the parts diagram:



If you need to, taking the seat out is easy, undo the bolts on each seat track, front and rear, disconnect the electrical connections, and you can remove the seat. However, looking at the parts diagram, it looks like you can access the switch without disassembling the seat itself. Maybe not, though.

You may want to consider contacting some of the Porsche used-parts places to see if they have a used switch.
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Old Jan 4, 2003 | 08:51 PM
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Thanks Bill. Where did you get the diag? Is it in the Parts & Tech Ref. Man? I've had a copy on BO at the local dealer for a month, finally today broke down and ordered from someplace else (Vertex).

I tried taking the switch out from the side w/ the seat in place, no-go, cables wouldn't pull out far enough. I'll most likely pull out the seat after I track down a replacement sw/cover.

Thanks again,
Bill W.
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Old Jan 5, 2003 | 11:56 AM
  #4  
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Bill W.,
My switch/cover to the driver's side seat has the same problem (cover snapped off) - in my case the seat control doesn't work when I try to activate it using the remaining stub. I bought the car this way - I dont know if it works or not, so I just ordered a new switch that comes w/ the cover plate from a dealer in Oregon who advertises in Excellence - about $45 and it was in stock (I had to use the $100 PCA coupon before 12/31 so I did a little x-mas shopping for the car

Bill G.- The diagram you posted will come in handy when I do the fix - Thanks <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

counting the days till spring...


Dan
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Old Jan 5, 2003 | 03:35 PM
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Cool

I had a similar problem with a seat switch after purchasing my 911. I contemplated replacing it myself after a $200+ estimate from my service facility (over $100 just for a new switch!) However, I did give up after pulling the switch out from the side of the seat and finding only solderable connections. As I couldn't pull out the wires any further to do the soldering anyway, I couldn't tell if there was some sort of a snap-on electrical connection somewhere inside the seat. So I let the service folks do it and held my breath when signing the VISA. Is there a snap on connection to the switch? I can't believe it is all a soldered connection.

Good luck with your repair and let us know how you did it! I have a feeling these switches are a weak spot, particularly on a Cabrio, where the interior can get wet. The dealer that sold me the car replaced another switch shortly after I took it home and I found it was not working.

Jim
'87 Cab. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
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Old Jan 5, 2003 | 03:51 PM
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Curious here as well. Are there snap-on connections on the other end of this switch? I need to replace one as well.
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Old Jan 6, 2003 | 10:45 AM
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I replaced the passenger side switch about six months ago. You must unbolt the seat from it's track in order to gain access under the seat to where the connection is. There are snap on connections at the opposite end of the cable that connect to the seat motor under the seat. You can't access that connector until the seat is unbolted where you can tilt the seat back. When you order the switch (about $50), it comes with one end of the cable soldered onto the switch and the other has a connection that will go into a snap apart connector under the seat. The most difficult part is getting the 6 bolts that hold the seat down out, as they are allen head bolts and will strip out very easily if you're not careful. Don't use an allen wrech, but rather get a 3/8 socket with the proper size hex end (if I remember right it is 8mm). I would also recommend replacing those bolts with deeper allen bolts, however be careful if replacing that the head of the bolt is not too high as the seat will not slide on the track if they are. I got them at the local nut and bolt dealer.

Good luck - it's actually a very easy project. Should not take much more than about an hour. Hint - raise the seat as high as possible prior to removing the bolts.

Regards,
Jim
'86 911
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Old Jan 6, 2003 | 11:47 AM
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Jim - I was just working on this same problem yesterday and I could not get the switch out. The seat I have is 2 way power so there are two bundles or wires coming from the switch. These stradle a netal post where the switch screws to the seat, so the plug at the other end (where it connects to the car power) would need to be disassembled. Is that what you did?
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Old Jan 6, 2003 | 12:19 PM
  #9  
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ZCAT
Yep that is what I did. First I disconnected the battery (you may short out if you do not). Next I unbolted the seat in order to tilt it back to gain access to the connector. Then unscrew the plate holding the switch in place on the seat. You should then be able to pull the switch out a couple of inches. Next I inserted the new cable through the plate so both switches (old and new) were running through the same opening in the plate and ran the cable to the connector following the old cable. Next I took apart the plastic housing (connector or whatever you want to call it) that the cable wires go into. It took some tinkering around with to figure out how to seperate the connector housing. I can't recall how exactly how it seperates, but it does. I then inserted the new switch cable leads into connector and put the connector back together. I then reconnected the battery and tested the switch to make sure it worked. It did. Then I disconnected the battery again. Next I cut the old cable and pulled the old switch out. Then reassembled the seat and reconnected the battery. It has worked great since.

Good luck!

Regards,
Jim
'86 911
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Old Jan 6, 2003 | 12:47 PM
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Jim (jet911) has it exactly right. I tried to do the same repair without unbolting the seat. I too thought you needed to solder connections and all that. Two hours of frustration and scrapes later, I decided to unbolt the seat to make the difficult solder job easier. Doh! It's a plug in connector! Five minutes later, I had the switch replaced and was back to bolting the seat back down. Grrr. BTW, did you know your seat says "Recaro" on the underside? Cool.

Derrick B.
85 Carrera
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 08:11 PM
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Here is a link to an eBay auction for a two way switch: <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33701&item=1876599377" target="_blank">Auction</a> . You could probably email them and see if they have a four way. Unfortunately it is with Partwerks out of Chicago. There is a thread going about their poor service, but I have used them before. My only complaint is that they make a buck or two on shipping. I have always gotten my items won in a timely manner. Your other choices could be either Ian's or 944 Ecology. I believe that both of them are Rennlist Sponsors, so you could keep it in the family so to speak. The switch you are looking for is the same as in late model 944's and 968's.
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Old Jan 8, 2003 | 12:50 PM
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Need some part number help. Reeves Import gave me a p/n of 928.613.183.00 and a price of $106, the price doesn't jive w/ what folks are saying. Since I can only pull the switches out about 2 in. the only part number I can find is 928.521.559.04 but this p/n appears to be the moulded part that encompasses BOTH the switches. Can anyone use that number to get the actual switch p/n? If the new part is ~$50 I'll go new if it's $106 I'll look for used.

I'm still waiting for my Parts and Tech. Ref. Man. to come in.

It's an '88 911 Cab w/ 2 4-way switches, the one that's broke is the passenger side that works the seatback fore/aft and up/down.

TIA, Bill W.
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Old Jan 18, 2023 | 06:04 PM
  #13  
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Default Power Seat Switch

1. This is the plastic connector under the seat being discussed in this thread. I have gently tried to open it as I need to replace one of the switches. I've learned not to get too aggressive with older plastic parts like this. Can someone share with me which way this comes apart? I know there is a simple tab or part that needs to be gently pried, but I can't tell which part. You can tell someone's already been digging on this in the past.
2. As a second question, what is the standard way these cars were built in terms of padding under the carpet? Was there a pad, insulation or noise blanket used? There is none under my carpet and it seems like there ought to be. I'd like to put it back with something between the floor and carpet.





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Old Jan 19, 2023 | 11:10 AM
  #14  
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update of a 2 decade thread, that has to be a new record !!!!!!

cool pics though. looks like it was butcherd where it locks into place rather than someone trying to open it.. I could figure out your issue for sure if it was in front of me , but i dont have electric seats sorry.

Last edited by theiceman; Jan 19, 2023 at 11:14 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2023 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by theiceman
update of a 2 decade thread, that has to be a new record !!!!!!
Over/under on the price of the switch is now $687.95
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