Torsin Bars. Solid vs Hollow and polybronze vz polygraphite bushings.
#16
RL Technical Advisor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Loaded
How much lighter are they? For a street driven / maybe DE car is it worth it?
Quality differences between manufacturers is a FAR bigger issue to me so I am quite particular about the parts that I buy.
#17
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Nossir, thats really not true,....
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Properly made hollow & solid torsion bars use the exact same spline sizes and no hand work is needed. Cheap bars sometimes do not fit very well and can require hand work; good bars fit perfectly.
We use hollow bars, exclusively.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Properly made hollow & solid torsion bars use the exact same spline sizes and no hand work is needed. Cheap bars sometimes do not fit very well and can require hand work; good bars fit perfectly.
We use hollow bars, exclusively.
#18
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Steve's right, considering the labor involved, the cost of high quality hollow bars isn't that much, and there has been no hand work involved with the T-bars that I've installed. Drew is also correct, 22/28 is a much better combination for the use that you describe, followed by the addition of adjustable sway bars, which allow fine tuning. Regarding Konis, I would never use them; I prefer Bilsteins in all applications. With a 22/28 setup you can use either HD or Sport models, with 22/29 I would definitely suggest Sports. Keep in mind, once you have Sport shocks your ride will be compromised; some like the stiffness, others hate it! If possible try to locate someone in your area, through PCA, etc., who can give you a ride in a modified 911.
Pete
Pete
#19
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann
with 22/29 I would definitely suggest Sports. Keep in mind, once you have Sport shocks your ride will be compromised; some like the stiffness, others hate it! If possible try to locate someone in your area, through PCA, etc., who can give you a ride in a modified 911.
Pete
Pete
#20
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ed: Over the years owner sensitivities toward ride, noise (various exhaust components, etc.), performance (and resulting compromises) and other issues were always considered prior to making changes to a customer car at my shop. I never discouraged someone from doing mods, I just attempted to get them to see the big picture. 99% of the cars that I maintained were daily drivers, hence, care was needed when discussing changes. Most drivers will not tolerate stiffer bars/shocks, regardless of the resulting increase in performance, which is why Porsche didn't build them all super-stiff. I'm aware that 1 g is not the ultimate goal of most owners, the same goes for shortening your 80 mph to zero stopping distance by ten or so feet. Most people that I know who have put "Big Reds" on their car did it because they look cool, not because they know how to perfectly balance their car under high speed braking at Willow Springs. I feel that it's necessary to tell the whole story, especially when I think that someone is thirsty for knowledge and wants to do the thing that will be right for them. Personally, I hated driving my PCA Club Race SC on the street, but that car was a beautiful thing in turn 8 at Willow Springs flat out in 5th! The key here is - that car was terrible on the street! Sport shocks, big T-bars, on the edge alignment settings; all made the car extremely uncomfortable. But there are some folks out there that probably would have loved it; I think they are in the minority. That said, you are absolutely correct about most '80s cars being ready for a new set of shocks, but I disagree that Sport shocks should be included in that comment. I have a dead-stock, Euro-height '82 SC. The car came to me with Sport Bilsteins installed by the PO. In less that a year, and only 4K miles, I replaced them with HDs and have never regretted it. The car not only rides better, it actually feels better in certain driving situations; more as though all the suspension pieces are working together instead of trying to out-do each other.
Pete
Pete
#21
Race Car
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Great info here guys. Just in time for my upgrages.
I already have sport shocks and ER bushings.
Looks like 22/29 is what I'll go for.
What size sway bars are suggested?
Smart or ER or ... bars?
Thanks
I already have sport shocks and ER bushings.
Looks like 22/29 is what I'll go for.
What size sway bars are suggested?
Smart or ER or ... bars?
Thanks
#22
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Pete I'm with you on the t-bars, but I still think that to make the statement about the shocks alone, which is what I read when I responded, is overly cautious and makes it sound a lot worse than it is. Again, I base this on the fact I've driven and seen a lot of 911's that were in need of suspension rehab.
To me, going thru the busihngs, in my case I used Elephant's, and the shocks can make an old car feel new again.
To me, going thru the busihngs, in my case I used Elephant's, and the shocks can make an old car feel new again.
#23
Addicted Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'd get "good quality" T-bars, irrespective of solid or hollow, for the simple reason that I've "heard" that some of the poorer bars have spline issues on occasion where fit is less than perfect. The weight diff between sloid/hollow is, as others said, negligible.
As for bushings, the ER PBronze is purportedly the best ones with many, many pleased owners. Keep in mind though that installation is much more involved ...not a bad thing, just keep that in mind. And, of course, much more costly, whether or not you DIY. FWIW, I went with PolyGraphite (black in color because of the graphite content, NOT just a simple urathane) for the cost, ease of installation, good reports from a few of those using them, and my SC is a track-only car so any squeaks would be tolerable. Well almost two years later, she is still 100% noise-free, and feels as great it she did when I completed the installation. Just thought I'd weigh in my findings![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Edward
As for bushings, the ER PBronze is purportedly the best ones with many, many pleased owners. Keep in mind though that installation is much more involved ...not a bad thing, just keep that in mind. And, of course, much more costly, whether or not you DIY. FWIW, I went with PolyGraphite (black in color because of the graphite content, NOT just a simple urathane) for the cost, ease of installation, good reports from a few of those using them, and my SC is a track-only car so any squeaks would be tolerable. Well almost two years later, she is still 100% noise-free, and feels as great it she did when I completed the installation. Just thought I'd weigh in my findings
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Edward
#24
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Personally, I don't think the install of the Elephant produt is too involved, it's very straight forward. Also, there is no machining needed, as is the case with at least some others. Plug 'n play, so to say.