AAArgh! Torsion bar is frozen into radius arm.
 

I can't catch a break on my rear suspension project.

I've spraying PB Blaster like crazy, but it won't separate. Also have to be careful not to gouge the torsion bar. I am reusing the existing bars.

Is it safe to use a propane torch to apply some heat? Of course I am sure the PB Blaster residue is flammable.

Here's the LINK to a great thread on getting stuck torsion bars out. Good luck!

Peter,
Thanks but the torsion bar is not stuck in the tube, as a matter of fact it moves very easily. The end of the torsion bar is stuck in the radius arm. Looks like the splines are frozen together. Can I drill out the end cap (facing out) and ,assuming its hollow all the way through, tap it out from there?

Here's a pick from another thread that shows where I am in the process.

yes but MAPP gas is hotter and you'll use less of it, unless you got an acetylene setup

Ulrich,

Same happened to me. I put the torsion bar back in and used some heat - MAPP as jerry ecommend and then hammered it off the torsion bar . Took some time but I did get it off. Don't think about cutting the torsion bar - don't ask how I know.

This can be very frustrating, byt take your time and it will come off. Try spraying with Zep or PB Blaster - but be very careful they are FLAMEABLE. I sprayed and let set over night then flusheh with water before i used heat.

Good luck ,
EarL

They are hollow all the way through, but instead of drilling the end cap and tapping it outside in, have you tried securing the torsion bar and tapping/hammering the spring plates from the inside out?

I don't exactly know how you could rig this up, but it seems from your photo that if you could grip the outer end of the t-bar with those three pronged grips like they use to remove gears from the transmission, and then attach a slide hammer to this, then the slide hammer could be used to "pull" out the t-bar. This was the technique I used to remove my front wheel hub which was frozen onto the front strut spindle. Except, instead of using a three pronged grip, there was an attachment that I could bolt directly onto the wheel hub.

Look at the first photo in this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-forum/261449-finally-my-pics-plus-stuck-wheel-hub-victory.html

Hope this helps!

Hi Ulrich,
Be carefull with the heat so you don't damage the rubber.
Have you tried tapping it in?
I'd give it a good tap inwards to try and break it's grip. Then, like Peter said, hold the protected t-bar in a vice and try and tap the spring plate off of it.
Even if the splines don't go all the way through you'll only need the same forced 'tap' to get it off if you can 'tap it in a bit.

Remember that any heat will have to be applied to the spring plate quick enough so as not to heat the torsion bar up. You'd want to expand the spring plate and not the torsion bar.

Good luck,

Frank

I think I am missing something. I thought the part that ataches to the car is free, but the end the ataches to the big rubber pice ( spring plate ? ) is stuck , there fore he can not remove it by passing it through the hole in the body. I know Ulrich you did get it off but i am just trying to figure out the situation as I know I will be there one day ( I too have a 78 )

Look at the pic in the 4th post. I had to drill a hole in the endcap and pry it off. Even then, with lots of PB Blaster, it took quite a bit off tapping to get the torsion bar to came free of the radius arm. It would NEVER have come off any other way.

Hi Ulrich

I am looking at the picture but have not had my car that far apart to understand what I am looking at. What did you pry against ? is the end of the bar still fastened inside the car ? I thought the bar and spring plate were atached but everything else loose. that wuld give you nothing to pry against .. sorry for being so dense..

No you have it right: The torsion bar is loose and I am able to move it freely in and out of the tube, however the outer end of the torsion bar was stuck inside the radius arm - spline to spline. I drilled a hole into the outer cap of the radius arm and pried off the cover. What you see at that point is the outer end of the torsion inside the radius arm. After lots of PB Blaster I was able to tap the torsion bar out of the radius arm.

Thanks Ulrich I finally got it .. I thought you pryed the bar out of the radius arm , but now I understand, you just pryed the cap off so you could get to the end of the bar inside the arm. would I have better luck prying off the cap before doing anyhing? is that even possible.?

It depends on whether this situation happens to you. Your bar may separate just fine without any of this hassle. Prying the endcap out will keep you from scraping up your torsion bar which is what I did on the driver's side. I'll have to paint it with primer before putting it back in. BTW, I ordered some red plastic endcaps from Performance Products (they go with the Weltmeister spring plates) to replace my metal ones (they are bent). Hope they fit.