SeattlePorsche

This is my first try at adding pics.

I succeeded in getting the stuck wheel hub off. I needed a special tool that my friend Ognian who is a professional mechanic loaned me. I dropped off the left wheel hub for installation of new seals, races and bearings. The tool didn't fit the wheel bolts so he gave me a file to shave the inside of the individual clamps so it would fit. (Are you jealous? I couldn't believe it, because Ognian is a professional mechanic, working on my Saab, and I thought mechanics never lend out tools, which I think is understandable.) Here is the tool. I don't know the name of it.
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=106475&stc=1

Here is the hub spindle. The grease looked green. The bearing was stuck and the spindle had damage.
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=106476&stc=1

Here is the damage. I don't know if you can see it, but it is a small dent, and if you run your finger over it you can feel some of the metal raised. Is this fixable, or do I buy a whole new strut? https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=106477&stc=1

Here are some new tools. Suddenly I don't feel like playing golf.
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=106478&stc=1

Here are my two new cars. The first photo is the 97 C4S waiting for me after work for the 1st time. Looked like a frosty mug.
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=106479&stc=1
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=106480&stc=1
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=106482&stc=1

Here is my Wine Red 1981 SC. This is my first project.
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=106483&stc=1
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=106484&stc=1
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=106485&stc=1

No hockey stick
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=106486&stc=1

Hope this worked. Tomorrow I drop off the right hub. What do you think. Is the spindle fixable/replaceable, or do I need a whole new strut?

Thanks

dependencies

don't know what alerted you to the bearing initially, but on mine it was the usuall speed related shrieking,
The first thing I tried, was adjusting the nut, just by pinching it up a tiny bit.
obviously it didn't work and in travelling 30minutes to the
workshop who look after it, they thought I was lucky to make it with a wheel attached to the car at all, as the stub it rolls on,
was scored beyond salvage.

I ended up with a replacement leg,

they spent a lot of time removing the hub with heat,
and full workshop facilities,
so your struggle with a handful of tools,
was no surprise really

J. Brinkley

if you get it cleaned up some more and get a close up of what you think is damaged someone here or there can probably help. Easiest way would be to compare both sides. Bet you knew that though

theiceman

James

Goos work finally getting that hub off, you have actually motivated me to get my hubs off and repack my wheel bearings myself. Do you happen to know , or could you read off yours the number off the bearings? There is a SKF bearing retailer not to far from my house and before pulling it all apart I would like to know if i can get the bearings locally.
I think I got the seal measurements right and have a couple of those coming so at least I can repack them with a new seal.
I must admit I really don't understand everything you did . When you got the stuck side off was that everything ? was there no race left on the shaft? That must have been what stuck on the spindle as otherwise it would never turn right ?

My87Targa

man i have to replace my barrings asap, looks like it will be fun lol

theiceman

That is what I thought when I read this , better change them while i can still get them off the hub.

Hey James, get those numbers and you will be the bearing expert guy we all call ..

J. Brinkley

those bearings are used on A LOT of cars search K8000-27798 SKF, pretty standard AFAIK

pjc

Warning to those who are thinking of DIY replacement - take it slowly it is VERY easy to get the new bearings screwed sideways, they are after all a close fit and special drifts are usually used to install. Not trying to put you off but you do need to be careful. Being a tapered bearing there is always a little play and unless they are noisy usually a repack and tighten is all that is required - these little guys will often go on for >100,000 miles.

PJC

theiceman

Jerry
IS it the same bearing for the inside and outside? I would have thought not !

I iwll do a search

Thanks

theiceman

no luck on the search

J. Brinkley

no, tappered outter front.
edit, could be wrong

J. Brinkley

it's K8000-27797 outter front

info from here http://www.drivewire.com/porschepart...ndbearing.html

theiceman

Hi Jerry
I could not find that part number on the SKF sight but I did look at the picture and got the part number LM11949 which computed. I am still looking for the outer ( the SKF place only seams to know the LM numbers ) .

I'll keep looking.

SeattlePorsche

Hello,

Ice, here are the numbers. I am looking at the boxes and there are several numbers on each box, so I will give them all to you (listed in order of probable significance.)

Outer bearing and race SKF: "BR2"
LM11949/LM11910 I would guess these are separate numbers for the bearing and race.
If I pullout the parts from the box, the bearing says LM11949 Q and Mexico.

Inner bearing and race SKF: "BR6"
This was a little different. This is much bigger than the outer, as you would expect because if you look at the spindle protruding from the strut, it is tapered, so the inner bearing has to be larger. The number on the bearing was different than what was on the box.

LM67048/LM67010
On the bearing it says LM57010 (I want to go back and look at it again. I remember the "5" was hard to read, sort of smudged?)

I think that damage to my spindle I mentioned earlier will be ok. On the spindle, proximally there is a flat area (flat meaning parallel to the floor) and then there is a long tapered segment, and then distally there is another flat area. My minor damage is on the tapered area, and I believe this part sees no weight, so I am ok to use this strut. The flat areas proximal and distal are what contact the bearings.

By the way, both the smaller outer and the larger inner bearings are tapered.

I would recommend, based on my conversations with two Porsche mechanics, that you replace the bearings and the races together. Don't just repack them. My car has 90+K miles on it. The right outer bearing didn't roll at all well, at least with my fingers, but the new bearings roll like crazy. The wheel hub has the races pressed inside of it at both the inner and outer ends. (I took pictures with my camera phone and will post if they help.) The bearings roll against the races, and the races wear down with use.

I am not sure why the spindle flat areas, which also make contact with the bearings, don't wear out as well. But if they did you would need to replace the entire strut on an SC.

theiceman

oops James I think I pmed you before I saw this.. sorry
This info is fantastic and will be searched a lot I am sure. These bearings are off the shelf and my guy has them in stock .. yipee....

The spindle doesn't wear because the inner race stays stationary against the spindle, and the outer race stays stationary against the hub, it is the opposiye side of the race that wears ( the face facing the rollers ) if you can figure out what I am trying to say.

anyway thanks again and I am off to get my bearings.



I will keep you guys posted with my Pain ...