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Three (3) hours--no way!

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Old Sep 24, 2025 | 06:31 PM
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Default Three (3) hours--no way!

Well, I just did my first valve adjustment on my new-to-me 1980 911 SC. After reading the Pelican procedure I had my doubts about their quoted three (3) hour time frame. So, I wasn't too surprised when it took me about seven (7) hours to complete the job.

Notably, it took half the Pelican allotted time just to clean the eight gasket surfaces. The head sealing surfaces required the most time, owing to their awkward position coupled with time required to stuff paper towels/rags in and around the rockers and drain holes to keep out gasket scrapings.

Plus, even using the special feeler gauge tool, it's quite awkward to set the valve clearance. For instance, I couldn't fit the feeler gauge between the valve stem and that "wobbly foot" on the rocker without loosening the adjustment a considerable amount. Part of the difficulty is because you're working blindly and if the feeler gauge "falls out" during the adjustment process you have to start all over by loosening the adjustment screw just so you can fit the feeler between the valve and rocker.

Perhaps the next time I can complete the job in less time, but three hours still seems optimistic.

If anyone has suggestions on how I can become more efficient at the valve adjustment process, I'm all ears.

Jason
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Old Sep 25, 2025 | 09:43 AM
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i would suggest not trying to adjust the time, but adjust your thinking.

I would totally enjoy spending 7 hours in my garage with my Porsche just taking my time and enjoying the moments.. sadly however, i've gotten it down to three.
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Old Sep 25, 2025 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by theiceman
i would suggest not trying to adjust the time, but adjust your thinking.

I would totally enjoy spending 7 hours in my garage with my Porsche just taking my time and enjoying the moments.. sadly however, i've gotten it down to three.
Perhaps next time will be quicker, but cleaning the gasket surfaces is a slow tedious process that I don't see getting any faster.

Jason
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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 02:02 AM
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If you use quality gaskets and use torq wrench the gaskets don’t stick in engine or covers. Verify that the covers are straight. Emery paper on flat surface.
This should solve the gasket problem.

Get the bent feeler gauge tool. Practice valve adjustment with an engine where the adjustment is not so ankward as in 911. Last time when I checked mine,
very few needed adjustment. If you’re not used to adjust valves, it take time to get the ”feel” how tight the
adjustment should be. This is not difficult.
Remember after checking / adjustment to verify the lash to be sure.
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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Vane
If you use quality gaskets and use torq wrench the gaskets don’t stick in engine or covers. Verify that the covers are straight. Emery paper on flat surface.
This should solve the gasket problem.

Get the bent feeler gauge tool. Practice valve adjustment with an engine where the adjustment is not so ankward as in 911. Last time when I checked mine,
very few needed adjustment. If you’re not used to adjust valves, it take time to get the ”feel” how tight the
adjustment should be. This is not difficult.
Remember after checking / adjustment to verify the lash to be sure.
Thank you for the tips!

I've adjusted valves on many engines, i.e.: Triumph; MGB; Kawasaki; Moto Guzzi; Aermacchi to name a few. So, I have a good feel for sliding feeler gauge fit.

And I do have the special feeler gauge tool, but can't seem to fit it between the valve stem and the wobbly-foot on the rocker without opening up the gap quite a bit. Consequently, I cannot measure/check valve clearance before I start the adjustment process, which means every valve must be adjusted. That 0.004" gap is just too small for making a blind stab with the feeler gauge.

Jason


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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by BOPE
Perhaps next time will be quicker, but cleaning the gasket surfaces is a slow tedious process that I don't see getting any faster.

Jason
well .. you are not suppose to have anything on the car to seal the gaskets... you might want to start thee. I use silicon ones and they don't leak a drop no matter how many times i take them on and off. so once you clean up once and do it correctly, you are done.
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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by BOPE
Thank you for the tips!

I've adjusted valves on many engines, i.e.: Triumph; MGB; Kawasaki; Moto Guzzi; Aermacchi to name a few. So, I have a good feel for sliding feeler gauge fit.

And I do have the special feeler gauge tool, but can't seem to fit it between the valve stem and the wobbly-foot on the rocker without opening up the gap quite a bit. Consequently, I cannot measure/check valve clearance before I start the adjustment process, which means every valve must be adjusted. That 0.004" gap is just too small for making a blind stab with the feeler gauge.

Jason
Jason it must be your technique.. you have to be able to slide it in and check without touching adjustment. a few you go in from the side and clock it in.. ( slide in from the side ) .. but you should be able to do them all without backing anything off,, that is how you check it.
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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 02:23 PM
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Default Suffering

Maybe there is just a certain amount of suffering that has to happen before it gets easier? Look into 'backside' valve adjustment, not infinitely easier, but maybe? a little more straightforward technique?

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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RShepHorse
Maybe there is just a certain amount of suffering that has to happen before it gets easier? Look into 'backside' valve adjustment, not infinitely easier, but maybe? a little more straightforward technique?
Thanks, I'll check it out.

Jason
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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by theiceman
Jason it must be your technique.. you have to be able to slide it in and check without touching adjustment. a few you go in from the side and clock it in.. ( slide in from the side ) .. but you should be able to do them all without backing anything off,, that is how you check it.
Yes, it must be a failed technique.

I can't see the gap, so I try sliding, plunging, poking, wiggling, you name it and I can't get the feeler between that wobbly-***-foot and the top of the valve stem.

Jason
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Old Sep 27, 2025 | 01:53 AM
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Can the reason be that the lash was too tight when you started? Now when you had adjusted correct lash with the feeler gauge, were you able to slide the feeler gauge back in to verify the lash?
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Old Oct 2, 2025 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by theiceman
well .. you are not suppose to have anything on the car to seal the gaskets... you might want to start thee. I use silicon ones and they don't leak a drop no matter how many times i take them on and off. so once you clean up once and do it correctly, you are done.
^^^^ Exactly. They are not expensive either. I got a set form the manufacturer directly, for around $55 plus shipping. Real Gaskets Tennessee, 2120 Est G Street, Elizabethton, TN 37643 423-543-6194. Part No.RG-911-Late, fits 1967.5 to 1989.
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Old Oct 5, 2025 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Bahman
^^^^ Exactly. They are not expensive either. I got a set form the manufacturer directly, for around $55 plus shipping. Real Gaskets Tennessee, 2120 Est G Street, Elizabethton, TN 37643 423-543-6194. Part No.RG-911-Late, fits 1967.5 to 1989.
Thanks, I use silicon gaskets for my next valve adjustment.

Jason
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Old Oct 6, 2025 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by BOPE
Thanks, I use silicon gaskets for my next valve adjustment.

Jason
just be aware the torque is frighteningly low on the nuts.. but trust it .. dont think you should go tighter and reef on them .
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