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-   -   FAVORITE WAX (after clay bar of course) (https://rennlist.com/forums/911-forum/115117-favorite-wax-after-clay-bar-of-course.html)

jmarenas 02-17-2004 09:01 PM

FAVORITE WAX (after clay bar of course)
 
I have used many waxes over the years, what is your favorite wax after a healthy clay job on your 911. I have recently used the Mequiers Gold Glass, zymol, and Mothers. Just dreaming of waxing since it is still below freezing here in michigan. Thanks. John:cool:

mducharme 02-17-2004 09:23 PM

What do you use the clay for??
Does your paint get that contaminated?
I use 3M finishing compound twice a year / Wax at least once a week,
Be careful with the clay
I like the Mothers , Works good for me.
Mducharme 86 930 turbo
84 carrera cab (for sale)

g-50cab 02-17-2004 10:15 PM

Griots best in show wax. And if you have never used the Porter Cable random orbital polisher you are in for a treat. http://www.a1-staffing.com/123_car.jpg

r911 02-17-2004 10:24 PM

I wonder who makes the Griot's -- they sure don't make it themselves. You could save a lot of money if you found out.

BTW, I am one of the few people who have ever tested waxes. There is NO difference in initial gloss among Meguair's Gold class, P21s, and Malm's. On one area, the Malm's did last better in a wet (non- sunny) environment with low pollutant loads (W. Oregon in winter).

What really counts is polishing carefully, and keeping the car in a garage when not used.

g-50cab 02-17-2004 10:31 PM

I thought the same thing - if you figure it out let me know - and at what, $19.99 - and I probably have a bottle that has lasted a year on - there are other things I can same money on. Now again, if you use the pads with the Porter Cable polisher, then buff with the lambs wool buffer - the paint just glows.

r911 02-18-2004 01:01 AM

It's true - the savings are nil.

The P21s smells the best BTW.

I use a PC sander with a buffer attached.

Driver8 02-18-2004 08:35 AM

I have always been a big fan of good old fashion Simoniz in the yellow tin. I use it along with Maguire's paint cleaner (step1) and their polish (step2).

jmarenas 02-18-2004 09:38 AM

Why I clay often, Details......
 
Brake dust is your Paints WORST enemy, thus Clay. BTW, clay done properly does not harm the finish.

CLEANING WITH CLAY


"Clay is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminants."



Every car finish shares a common enemy: pollution. It relentlessly pursues your car from the second it leaves the factory until your car meets its ultimate demise. It's in the air we breathe, it's on the roads we drive, and it attaches to your car's paint, where it bonds and begins a process of oxidation.
Surface contamination, as shown by this diagram, are difficult to clean or polish off, yet paint cleaning clay removes it with ease.

When contaminants get a solid grip on your car's paint, washing alone may not be enough to remove them. Pre-wax cleaners also may not be able to exfoliate large particles. In this case, you have two choices: use a polishing compound, which removes a lot of paint material, or use a clay bar. Clay isn't a polish or a compound, it is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminants.

USES FOR CLAY
Detailing clay is not a cure-all or a replacement for polishing. It's a tool for removing surface contamination.

One of the many reasons for using clay is the removal of brake dust. Brake dust contamination, which attaches to painted rear bumpers and adjoining surfaces, is a metallic surface contaminant that can be removed safely and effectively by using clay.


Holly is using a clay bar to remove heavy oxidation and paint contamination on the trunk of her car. She's using a detailing spray as the lubricant. Soapy water works equally well. The paint surface needs to be well lubricated or the clay will stick.

Clay is also very effective on paint over-spray. If the over-spray is particularly heavy, you may want to seek the assistance of a professional. Tree sap and tar specks can also be safely removed with a clay bar.

Recently, I have also started using clay on my windows (exterior) to remove heavy road film, bug deposits and water spots. It works very well, and seems to outperform even the best window cleaners.

EVALUATING YOUR PAINT FOR CLAY
How do you know if you need to use a clay bar? After thoroughly hand washing your car, feel the surface of your car's paint. Do you feel bumps and rough spots? These bumps are contaminants attacking the finish of your car. Removing these surface contaminants (road tar, acid rain spots, bug residue, paint over-spray, brake pad dust, hard water spots, etc.) will improve both the look and health of your car's paint. By the way, you can magnify your sense of touch by inserting your fingertips into a sandwich bag or a piece of cellophane.

No matter how well you hand-wash your car, many of the contaminants that have worked their way into your car's paint finish will remain. Have you ever looked at your foam wax applicator pad after applying a coat of wax? What do you think that black stuff is? It's dirt, and you're waxing over it, sealing it in.

CLAY SAFETY
Clay itself isn't new. In fact, it's one of the most common compounds on earth. However, it is fairly new to the car detailing market. Clay bars are made of fine clay particles in a soft, malleable "clay" medium that allows the bar to be formed and kneaded. Some clay makers add color to make the bar more attractive or to identify bars of differing strength (coarseness).

Many clay products claim to contain no abrasives. This is stretching the truth. The reason many clay manufacturers claim their products don't contain an abrasive is because the general public thinks the word "abrasive" refers only to aggressive, paint removing materials. The fact is the abrasives in most automotive clay products are so fine that you will not see any reduction in paint gloss. After several uses, paint luster may even improve.

Still, I have heard some horror stories about people ruining a Ferrari paint job using a clay bar. I can see how this might be true if an inappropriate product was used or if a clay bar was used incorrectly.

USING CLAY
Before using a clay bar on your car, you must thoroughly clean and dry your car to remove any loose dirt. Direct sunlight should not fall on your car's surface, and it's best if the work area is relatively cool to prevent rapid evaporation of the clay lubricant.

To use the clay bar, you spray a water-based lubricant on a small area of your car and rub the bar back and forth with light to medium pressure. If the lubricant begins to dry, you'll need to spray more. Clay bars are fairly sticky, and cannot be used dry. Try using it dry and you'll make a big mess.

After a few passes with the clay bar, rub your hand over the area to feel if the surface contamination was removed. Keep rubbing until all contamination bumps are gone. Finally, wipe the clay residue off with a soft terrycloth towel, and buff to a nice luster. Just like waxing, work in small areas.

Check the clay bar frequently for hard particles. When found, pick them off. Make it a habit to occasionally knead and reform the bar so that a fresh portion of the bar contacts your car's paint. If you drop your bar of clay on the ground, it's history. Toss it out. Don't take any chances, discard the clay bar if it becomes impregnated with grit. Read the manufacturers' directions for the number of uses of their clay bar. Do not overuse a clay bar.

When you're finished claying your car, you should wash it to remove the lubricant film, then go over it with a pre-wax cleaner to finish cleaning the paint. Finally, seal your freshly cleaned paint with your choice of wax or sealant.

SUMMARY
Automotive paint cleaning clay offers many advantages in the removal of surface contamination from paint. Even in the hands of a first-time user, it is difficult to do any damage to your paint with clay. Sure, if you use a dirty clay bar, scratches can result. However, compared to machine buffing, compounding, or using harsh chemicals, clay is much safer and easier to use

:cheers:

Mark in Baltimore 02-18-2004 11:01 AM

I'm a Zaino man.

dakar34 02-18-2004 12:09 PM

I like Klasse acrylic wax for a base and then a carnuba wax on top. Great longevity that way, though obviously garaging is key.

Bill Gregory 02-18-2004 12:30 PM

After using a wash with kitchen soap (dial, etc) to strip wax off, I use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, followed by One Grand Blitz wax, which is a basic carnuba wax.

Larry Harris 02-18-2004 04:58 PM

Try Liquid Glass, about $19.00 per can but well worth it. I have tried most available waxes, polishes, etc., and Liquid Glass seems to work best. Clay the car first and apply three coats over a week or so.

Larry

Jay H 02-18-2004 06:29 PM

I'm with Bill above. Wash with Dawn or your favorite grease cutting dish soap once a year. Then, I follow up with 3M Hand Glaze with P21S wax on the 911. 3M Hand Glaze followed up by Blitz Wax on the daily drivers. All done by hand, no power tools...

Jay
90 964

scottb 02-18-2004 07:47 PM


Originally posted by Bill Gregory
One Grand Blitz wax, which is a basic carnuba wax.
One Grand is amazing stuff. Bill is correct, it's just basic carnuba, but when used with a PC polisher and One Grand Omega Glaze, it provides a great finish!

g-50cab 02-18-2004 11:29 PM


Originally posted by Jay H
I'm with Bill above. Wash with Dawn or your favorite grease cutting dish soap once a year. Then, I follow up with 3M Hand Glaze with P21S wax on the 911. 3M Hand Glaze followed up by Blitz Wax on the daily drivers. All done by hand, no power tools...

Jay
90 964

Jay - I thought the same thing - always washing the Porsche by hand - then at the recommendation of a friend tried the PC polisher to get rid of some bad tree sap. Now I am a believer.

BTW - any of you blitz wax guys ever try the Griots best in show? I'm not bashful about trying anything.


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