Newish to me need ideas on mods
 

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1974 base 911 targa that I have had for a year, all #'s matching (not that it matters, will upgrade motor in the future) stock 2.7 with CIS no rust at all PO did a complete repaint down to bare metal two years ago. I absolutely love this thing (almost more than my GT4) its a blast to drive on the street and AX. I would like to add a external oil cooler (fender?) and would like to get it to sound and handle better and along with changing out steering wheel and door panels. Things done so far by me:
1. Top end rebuild (had done by reputable shop)
2. steel braided brake lines on all 4 corners
3. replaced shifter bushings
4. install new shifter (rennline)
5. lower to Euro ride height
6. had realigned after I lowered it

What are more of the basics that a guy and his kids can do to just make it work better on the road and AX, oh and its back in CA where it started its life

First, do all safety maintenance:
1. check date code on tires - replace if over 6 years old no matter mileage or wear; if < 6 years old replace if worn or you don't like them (i.e. NVH, comfort vs. racy; rain/snow, etc)
2. replace all rubber fuel lines with new rubber that is pressure rated for CIS AND rated for EtOH mixes
3. buy new rubber brake hoses from dealer (TUV approved) and install

Next, all long-term maintenance: make an Excel spreadsheet of everything the PO did, mileage, and date; add yours
- all fluids
- flush change brake fluid every 2-3 years no matter what mileage


Upgrades:
- replace all suspension bushings with either Elephant rubber or polybronze
- if Bilstein shocks wend in for digressive valving; if not replace with digressively valved Bilsteins if you can

kill the CIS and put in EFI or sell the motor and put in a 3.8RS motor

etc. etc. depending on WAF and where you want to go with the car in terms of NVH, comfort vs. racing or hotrod

Ok lets bring this back up
1. tires are good 2yrs old
2. all rubber lines done with top end rebuild done last year
3. new brake hoses done by me, I went SS

I want to upgrade to a fender oil cooler (I want to install) and they are all over the map...I would like to know what is a good one but pelican has like 3-4 "kits" whats the difference? Elephant quoted me 3200 for the kit?!?!?! I emailed them back to clarify they quoted a "kit" and then added in the oil cooler as well?

would like to upgrade the shocks, and other suspension parts for better AX ability and canyon driving. Whats the consensus on that?

Thanks,

I couldn't find a comprehensive Pelican kit to add a fender oil cooler to a car without one. Most of their kits are to upgrade the fender oil cooler for cars that already have the plumbing, or they include hoses to get from the engine to the fender, but they don't seem to include the thermostat.

Elephant is probably your best bet, unless you want to hunt for used components and piece it together. You would need the OEM plumbing kit for $1688 (#0220003), and the oil cooler kit for $1433. You could save some money and get the Pelican front cooler kit (PEL-EXTOIL-01N) for $1079, less 10% if you are a PCA member. You can often find the front radiator-style cooler used, but you also need the hoses and the mounting brackets.

For shocks, a popular combo is Bilstein Sport in the rear, and Bilstein HD in the front. Digressive valved, as r911 suggested (Elephant has these). But you could also upgrade the size of your torsion bars slightly as well as the roll bars to reduce body roll. You would probably also benefit from replacing all the rubber bushings. Elephant Racing is the easiest way to go.

It depends on how much you want to spend and how deep you want to dig. If you replace the bushings, you'll need to reset the ride height and get another alignment. When the front A-arms are off, you probably should also think about new ball joints. Sometimes if you just replace the shocks, you'll find that the ride height increases, so now you need another ride height adjustment.

Mark

yes, bushings - how old are they?

I have a Mazda oil cooler I think, courtesy of a PO
agree that Elephant likely has the best oil cooler but have never tested or compared them - but Chuck M. (Elephant) is not a halfway kind of guy

BTW, the '74 (if not rusty) is a great sleeper year - light wt. nearly like the '73, but with the bumpers

if mine, I'd motorize it and back date at least somewhat for ext. looks

and you can add the Euro crush tubes to replace the bumper shocks and lose some wt., tho it won't change the looks

^
Yup.... might as well say every time you replace the shocks. Then you need to drive them a bit to settle them and then do the ride height adjustment.
Just went through this...... You don't just haphazardly do suspension work. If you don't mind repetitive alignments and ride height adjustments do what ever you want.

What I don't see in this thread is why you want to do mods in general, and why a fender oil cooler in particular? More to the point, what do you want from the car? That should guide what you do. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Im looking to make it a better driver/AX car, drove it at the AX yesterday and oil got to 250 a few times on the last lap of 4. Im not set on the fender oil cooler however it seems to be what most others I see have done.

Spoke to a couple guys at the AX and they suggested better torsion bars vs. shocks to get the rocking out of it, Im just trying to find a consensus so I don't end up doing things over and over.

It seems hard to believe that 4 laps of an AX circuit will heat oil temp to 250. A few short AX runs per day shouldn't heat up the engine like that. What was the ambient temperature? My '69 911 (and perhaps your '74) doesn't even have any oil cooler at all. Are you sure you don't have an engine problem?

do the bushings/torsions/digressive shocks/sways - then align/corner balance

Two drivers so 8 laps within 15 min or so. Temp in mid 70's overcast yesterday, I just had a complete top end (valve job) done within the last year and 2K miles by a reputable shop. Thats why I want to add a oil cooler,

For grip you start w/wheels and tires, then work inward
for a n/b car w/o SC/Carrera rear fenders
Fuchs 7ET23 all around In order of decreasing grip 205/50, 205/55 or 205/60 x15 tires, There are some good ones out there I like RE71 but check around.

If you want to spend more 8s can be fitted but you need ET27+\- front and ET30+\- rear that opens up some 225 possibilities

Once you have some nice grippy tires shocks and t/bars and sways can be added to adjust the handling characteristics. digressive shocks are a huge plus on a big track where you are hitting the turtles at speed, In a lower speed environment on smooth surface they are nice but not essential, some stock Bilstein hd all around or hd front and sport rear would be great and then add t/bars to suit there are several good threads about t/bars then lastly tweek w/ some adjustable sways

Of course other things help too, like adding lightness, especially at the ends(bumpers) pays dividends