New 911, now what?
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New 911, now what?
Hello to all 911 entusiasts. I just got delivery of a 1983 911SC. It belongs to my brother and since he is unable to work on the car I'll have the pleasure to make it run. With your help that is.
The car was stored in all 4 stands since 2002 according to the inspection sticker with due date 2003.
It has low millage and I think is accurate since the over all condition of the paint and car looks good.
The car has no battery since it was borrowed several years ago to power the family car.
Was the tail an option for non turbo cars?
I will send pictures from the engine compartment in the next post.
The car was stored in all 4 stands since 2002 according to the inspection sticker with due date 2003.
It has low millage and I think is accurate since the over all condition of the paint and car looks good.
The car has no battery since it was borrowed several years ago to power the family car.
Was the tail an option for non turbo cars?
I will send pictures from the engine compartment in the next post.
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Engine compartment
There is a hose missing, I need a diagram. Where can I find one?
I found this in the trunk, is this the missing engine part?
This part fell apart on touch.
From here, what is it and where does it go?
There is no barn/garage find without a nest.
That is what I took out of the compartment.
OK I need your help. What should I do next?
I'm ready to drain all fluids.
GAS
Obviously drain the gas tank, should I remove the tank too?
Remove and clean the fuel pump?
Should I remove and replace injectors
OIL
Drain and pour new oil
What would you do in my case with a 911 that has been on stand for at least 15 years?
Drain
#4
leave tank & pump in for now
buy a Bentley manual for the SC - you have CIS so may need to do some theory of operation reading
replace ALL rubber fuel hoses & rubber brake hoses with new - get Porsche brake hoses from the dealer and avoid the stupid stainless steel ones - you will replace all the brake fluid every 2-3 years; examine the fluid for color or algae growth...
- you will replace the rubber brake hoses every 20 years or maybe 10 or 15...
- new rubber fuel hoses must be EtOH mix rated and pressure rated for CIS
- remove the big drain bung from the bottom of the fuel tank; photo it and post pic here - you may as well buy a new one, but crudmay mean a tank removal - you can also pull the level gauge from the top of the tank and look around inside that way
* do not neglect to replace the rubber hoses near the bottom of the tank
check date codes on the tires - no matter how much tread is left, you will need to replace them if more than 6 years old before driving it
pull all the spark plugs out and see if the engine will turn over by hand - if not, report back
you will replace the fan belt too before going very far, so add that to your list
have you worked on an air cooled 911 before? they are very simple cars, but are different...
Do you own a lift? You'll need to replace all suspension bushings on the car to make it drive correctly so a lift will be very, very handy...
buy a Bentley manual for the SC - you have CIS so may need to do some theory of operation reading
replace ALL rubber fuel hoses & rubber brake hoses with new - get Porsche brake hoses from the dealer and avoid the stupid stainless steel ones - you will replace all the brake fluid every 2-3 years; examine the fluid for color or algae growth...
- you will replace the rubber brake hoses every 20 years or maybe 10 or 15...
- new rubber fuel hoses must be EtOH mix rated and pressure rated for CIS
- remove the big drain bung from the bottom of the fuel tank; photo it and post pic here - you may as well buy a new one, but crudmay mean a tank removal - you can also pull the level gauge from the top of the tank and look around inside that way
* do not neglect to replace the rubber hoses near the bottom of the tank
check date codes on the tires - no matter how much tread is left, you will need to replace them if more than 6 years old before driving it
pull all the spark plugs out and see if the engine will turn over by hand - if not, report back
you will replace the fan belt too before going very far, so add that to your list
have you worked on an air cooled 911 before? they are very simple cars, but are different...
Do you own a lift? You'll need to replace all suspension bushings on the car to make it drive correctly so a lift will be very, very handy...
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Very cool, congratulations! And welcome to Rennlist!
From the dust, it looks like it has been stored indoors? If inside, there is a better chance the fuel tank will be OK.
Do you know why it was parked?
Do get the Bentley manual. It's the next best thing to the factory manuals (and in many cases better):
This is also a good book to have: https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/cat...oject-book.htm (Seems to be out of stock everywhere, but you want this book for sure. Try eBay too.)
You can download a parts manual with diagrams here: https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessor...artscatalogue/
That corrugated plastic hose is the one that is missing from the engine compartment. It connects to that opening at lower left of your engine compartment photo, the other end connects to the heater blower that is hidden at upper left under the deteriorated engine sound pad that has fallen on it. Pull that sound pad out of there, you don't really need it and it's tough to replace with the engine in the car. Have a vacuum handy to suck up all the crumbly bits so they don't get into the intake.
The way the 911 heating system works is that plastic hose directs hot air from inside the engine shroud to the blower. The blower then directs it to those two smaller diameter hoses that connect to the heat exchangers on the exhaust system under the engine. The heat exchangers heat the air further, and then it either gets dumped under the car, or it is directed through the rockers to the dash and then the cockpit. The two red levers between the seats determine if the hot air is dumped or used to heat the cockpit.
That other metal bracket you have laying next to the plastic hose is the battery hold-down. I can't tell what that thing is that fell apart on you. You can post larger photos. Where is it located?
r911's list of things to do is a good one, I think some are higher priority than the others. For instance, you can probably wait to do the suspension bushings until you have it driving again, and even after you've been enjoying it for a while.
My list:
Fuel tank/fuel pump
Engine oil, transmission oil
Get the engine running
Brakes
Tires
Drive it, see what else it needs.
I would start by checking the condition of the fuel tank. Pull the sender and look inside. Hopefully no rust. Siphon out the fuel, then drain by removing the bung on the underside. You'll want to get the car back on jack stands so you can get underneath, pull the bung, and check the condition of the hoses at the fuel pump. The fuel pump may also be seized up.
You should read through this other thread that is ongoing now where someone is trying to get their 1977 running again. Your 1983 has virtually the same fuel injection system, so you'll have the same issues: https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...storation.html
Get started on the fuel tank and report back. If you want to drain the engine oil, you can do that too, but have a big pan. You'll probably get 7-8 quarts out of the oil tank, and another 2-3 from the engine sump (10 quarts total).
Mark
From the dust, it looks like it has been stored indoors? If inside, there is a better chance the fuel tank will be OK.
Do you know why it was parked?
Do get the Bentley manual. It's the next best thing to the factory manuals (and in many cases better):
This is also a good book to have: https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/cat...oject-book.htm (Seems to be out of stock everywhere, but you want this book for sure. Try eBay too.)
You can download a parts manual with diagrams here: https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessor...artscatalogue/
That corrugated plastic hose is the one that is missing from the engine compartment. It connects to that opening at lower left of your engine compartment photo, the other end connects to the heater blower that is hidden at upper left under the deteriorated engine sound pad that has fallen on it. Pull that sound pad out of there, you don't really need it and it's tough to replace with the engine in the car. Have a vacuum handy to suck up all the crumbly bits so they don't get into the intake.
The way the 911 heating system works is that plastic hose directs hot air from inside the engine shroud to the blower. The blower then directs it to those two smaller diameter hoses that connect to the heat exchangers on the exhaust system under the engine. The heat exchangers heat the air further, and then it either gets dumped under the car, or it is directed through the rockers to the dash and then the cockpit. The two red levers between the seats determine if the hot air is dumped or used to heat the cockpit.
That other metal bracket you have laying next to the plastic hose is the battery hold-down. I can't tell what that thing is that fell apart on you. You can post larger photos. Where is it located?
r911's list of things to do is a good one, I think some are higher priority than the others. For instance, you can probably wait to do the suspension bushings until you have it driving again, and even after you've been enjoying it for a while.
My list:
Fuel tank/fuel pump
Engine oil, transmission oil
Get the engine running
Brakes
Tires
Drive it, see what else it needs.
I would start by checking the condition of the fuel tank. Pull the sender and look inside. Hopefully no rust. Siphon out the fuel, then drain by removing the bung on the underside. You'll want to get the car back on jack stands so you can get underneath, pull the bung, and check the condition of the hoses at the fuel pump. The fuel pump may also be seized up.
You should read through this other thread that is ongoing now where someone is trying to get their 1977 running again. Your 1983 has virtually the same fuel injection system, so you'll have the same issues: https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...storation.html
Get started on the fuel tank and report back. If you want to drain the engine oil, you can do that too, but have a big pan. You'll probably get 7-8 quarts out of the oil tank, and another 2-3 from the engine sump (10 quarts total).
Mark
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Great advice so far. I'll add one frequent gotcha: don't drain the transmission oil until you first loosen the filler plug. If it's seized, you'll be sorry you drained the oil first
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Thanks for your kind responses. I'll read all and get back before touching the car. I know the owner, he stored the car because he couldn't maintain it on the road (expenses, insurance, taxes) and store it for a year and then the year turn into almost two decades. Once you put a car on stands is difficult to set it back on the floor.
I'm mechanically inclined and restore vintage motorcycles as a hobby. Never worked on a 911 before but did work a little and raced 356´s in the Carrera Panamericana years back.
I'm mechanically inclined and restore vintage motorcycles as a hobby. Never worked on a 911 before but did work a little and raced 356´s in the Carrera Panamericana years back.
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R911, 911Dave & Mark Salvetti, thanks for responding to my posts.
This is more less a list of things I’ll start working on and will keep me busy for the next few days:
I'm already reading through this https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...storation.html
Buy a Bentley manual for the SC, check about continuous injection system
Leave tank & pump in for now
Pull the tank sender and look inside, siphon out the fuel
Get the car back on jack stands
Remove the big drain bung from the bottom of the fuel tank; photo it and post pic here
Check the condition of the hoses at the fuel pump. The fuel pump may also be seized up.
Replace ALL rubber fuel hoses, new rubber fuel hoses must be EtOH mix rated and pressure rated for CIS,
* do not neglect to replace the rubber hoses near the bottom of the tank
Replace rubber brake hoses; examine the fluid for color or algae growth...
Check date codes on the tires - replace them if more than 6 years old before driving
Pull all the spark plugs out and see if the engine will turn over by hand - if not, report back
Replace the fan belt
Replace Engine oil, have a big pan. You'll probably get 7-8 quarts out of the oil tank. and another 2-3 from the engine sump (10 quarts total).
Replace transmission oil; don't drain the transmission oil until you first loosen the filler plug.
Thanks
This is more less a list of things I’ll start working on and will keep me busy for the next few days:
I'm already reading through this https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...storation.html
Buy a Bentley manual for the SC, check about continuous injection system
Leave tank & pump in for now
Pull the tank sender and look inside, siphon out the fuel
Get the car back on jack stands
Remove the big drain bung from the bottom of the fuel tank; photo it and post pic here
Check the condition of the hoses at the fuel pump. The fuel pump may also be seized up.
Replace ALL rubber fuel hoses, new rubber fuel hoses must be EtOH mix rated and pressure rated for CIS,
* do not neglect to replace the rubber hoses near the bottom of the tank
Replace rubber brake hoses; examine the fluid for color or algae growth...
Check date codes on the tires - replace them if more than 6 years old before driving
Pull all the spark plugs out and see if the engine will turn over by hand - if not, report back
Replace the fan belt
Replace Engine oil, have a big pan. You'll probably get 7-8 quarts out of the oil tank. and another 2-3 from the engine sump (10 quarts total).
Replace transmission oil; don't drain the transmission oil until you first loosen the filler plug.
Thanks
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Update
I purchase a jack pad and placed the 911SC on 6 ton stands.
I have a little slant so I had to compensate.
I drained the oil and the plug was clean.
Oil was acceptable too.
I couldn't unscrew the oil tank plug, but since I got almost 8.5 quarts from the sump I stop.
I use a hose to siphon the gas thru the sender and it was a little amber.
I drained the rest thru the drain plug, the filter was nasty.
I clean the filter and close the plug.
I purchase me an endoscope to look inside the tank. It's a nice little toy and at 37 bucks I couldn't resist.
These pictures are from inside the tank. Is this corrosion or gunk?
Lots of sediment at the bottom.
With both rear tires on the air I try to turn the engine but the tires are running freely, regardless of the gear. Is the clutch stuck?
I try by rotating the fan, but the belt is too old and dry to rotate the engine.
I decided to remove the spark plug to try to rotate the engine and inspect the piston. I tried the left and I couldn't and squirted some DW40 and will try again tomorrow.
What should I do with the tank, how do I clean it?
Thanks and cheers.
I have a little slant so I had to compensate.
I drained the oil and the plug was clean.
Oil was acceptable too.
I couldn't unscrew the oil tank plug, but since I got almost 8.5 quarts from the sump I stop.
I use a hose to siphon the gas thru the sender and it was a little amber.
I drained the rest thru the drain plug, the filter was nasty.
I clean the filter and close the plug.
I purchase me an endoscope to look inside the tank. It's a nice little toy and at 37 bucks I couldn't resist.
These pictures are from inside the tank. Is this corrosion or gunk?
Lots of sediment at the bottom.
With both rear tires on the air I try to turn the engine but the tires are running freely, regardless of the gear. Is the clutch stuck?
I try by rotating the fan, but the belt is too old and dry to rotate the engine.
I decided to remove the spark plug to try to rotate the engine and inspect the piston. I tried the left and I couldn't and squirted some DW40 and will try again tomorrow.
What should I do with the tank, how do I clean it?
Thanks and cheers.
#11
F*ck yeah, great to see you trying to bring this one back to life... I'll subscribe and please keep us up to date with your progress.
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You may need to free up all six cylinders. Remove all the plugs and squirt in a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in each one.
For the fuel tank, you could try soaking it in apple cider vinegar. That's a popular cleaner. But I think you should pull the tank. That way you can easily slosh it around. Maybe drop in a length of chain to act as a scrubber. You may have to do this more than once.
To pull the tank, there are three little brackets around the perimeter of the tank inside the trunk. Once those are removed the tank should lift out, although you may need to gently persuade it with a floor jack and a block of wood. Sometimes the tank sticks to the foam seal.
Mark
For the fuel tank, you could try soaking it in apple cider vinegar. That's a popular cleaner. But I think you should pull the tank. That way you can easily slosh it around. Maybe drop in a length of chain to act as a scrubber. You may have to do this more than once.
To pull the tank, there are three little brackets around the perimeter of the tank inside the trunk. Once those are removed the tank should lift out, although you may need to gently persuade it with a floor jack and a block of wood. Sometimes the tank sticks to the foam seal.
Mark
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Thanks Irwin for the encouragement.
Mark thanks for answering, I have a question.
While at the soda blasting shop (I restore motorcycle as voluntary work in a museum) I notice this guys are a radiator shop too and have an acid tank and do dip gas tanks.
Should I take advantage and dip the 911SC gas tank in acid? Will this get all the sludge out, will I harm the tank?
The spark plugs are super tight, will I damage the threads or break a chunk of the head if I use force?
Is there another way to reach the spark plugs, underneath the car? I'm starting to hate the AC compressor!!!
Mark thanks for answering, I have a question.
While at the soda blasting shop (I restore motorcycle as voluntary work in a museum) I notice this guys are a radiator shop too and have an acid tank and do dip gas tanks.
Should I take advantage and dip the 911SC gas tank in acid? Will this get all the sludge out, will I harm the tank?
The spark plugs are super tight, will I damage the threads or break a chunk of the head if I use force?
Is there another way to reach the spark plugs, underneath the car? I'm starting to hate the AC compressor!!!
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I think you do need be careful with the stuck plugs. Try some penetrating oil, apply regularly over the course of a week and keep trying. A 50:50 mixture of acetone and ATF is supposed to work great, but I've never tried it.
I don't think I would try dipping the tank, at least not as a first resort. See this comment over on Pelican: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ml#post7323970 The poster is a member here too, I think.
Mark
I don't think I would try dipping the tank, at least not as a first resort. See this comment over on Pelican: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ml#post7323970 The poster is a member here too, I think.
Mark