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The tech im using does full car builds and restorations, and is a fabricator. He'll do it. It may not need metal cut.
Its very minor, I'd say slightly more than surface and is old, looks like when they did the car body work they sort of patched it up, but im going to patch it up a little nicer. The location is the very front left of the front tub area.
He'll also give the under body a thorough once over and address any surface areas that need treatment and new underbody coating. Its really clean under there but just want to stay on top of it. These things are old and didn't have galvanized panels like the later cars.
I have only peeked around in the front of my car, but i know i have issues up there. One of the areas sounds like the same area you are describing. I want to have the rust repairs done right on my car and would appreciate good leads for shops to handle the work. I know some of the best are very difficult to get into (e.g. Espositio's, CPR, Carparc) and I am not doing a concours car. I would be very interested in a shop that does good work but I don't have to wait 2 years to get into and wont charge me concours money. Please PM me with your guys details if you think he would be interested in working on my car in a few months.
I think the key is find the issue areas, scape it back, and either get a new piece (like from restoration design or dansk) to weld in or patch it. Its only metal. And, we don't have concourse cars so anyone who can do nice metal work, ASSUMING its not a structural thing (for example the front suspension pan, rear torsion tube, etc... ) most shops can handle it. Cut it out, tack it in, weld it. Seal prime paint or coat. On mine, there were 3 areas they had to address when the car was stripped down: the rear seats were rotted through: they completely replaced the metal there from a donor, the passenger headlight bucket: welded in a new one, and some of the front pan area: replaced with new metal. At some point ALL of these cars will require some work.
next time I go to the shop I'll take a picture. When I pointed it out to the tech his comment was: old, was addressed before, not a problem, will touch it up. LOL. Followed by: this car is amazingly clean and sorted.
I have pictures of my car all town down I'll post at some point.
^yep - i actually just need someone to weld the pieces in correctly (surprising how often you see hack jobs poorly done). Most likely I will be cutting out the areas myself and doing all of the finish work. I really need to learn to weld - but wouldn't want this car to be my learning experience
I'm really interested in seeing where you go with the suspension setup with the torsion & sway bars. I have a project 1973 911T that I have a similar driving experience objective for. However, the Colorado Front Range doesn't begin to have as many great Canyon-type driving opportunities as the California Coastal region.I don't know what your SoCal situation is with the local PCA chapters and the selection of race course venues, but many, many years ago the Golden Gate Region chapter had full use of both Laguna Seca and Sears Point a couple weekends a year for DE/time trials (sorry, but I just can't get used to the "new" names for those tracks (nor the layout at Laguna Seca since they added the infield part)).
Yeah I'm in SoCal, but the GGR (golden gate) PCA is really active in Norcal and holds DE and club races at Sears Point, Laguna, Thunderhill, Buttonwillow raceways, along with hosting autocross. I don't plan to track this car, maybe an autocross or 2 would be fun with the OCR group down south here.
This is what I've settling on:
18mm front and rear sway bars - got full OEM setups for this (front bar is a tarett piece)
21mm front torsion
26mm rear torsion
Elephant Racing rear adjustable spring plates w/ new rubber bushings
turbo tie rods
Bilstein HD shocks (already installed)
New rubber all around on the suspension (already installed)
Tires are CN36 Pirelli "classics) in 185/70 profile
Ride height and alignment will be a bit more sporting but not too low - I think the below ride height is just right.
This will give me sort of a period 'sport' setup, the car has a nice strong 2.7L in it so its quick.
Yeah I'm in SoCal, but the GGR (golden gate) PCA is really active in Norcal and holds DE and club races at Sears Point, Laguna, Thunderhill, Buttonwillow raceways, along with hosting autocross. I don't plan to track this car, maybe an autocross or 2 would be fun with the OCR group down south here.
This is what I've settling on:
18mm front and rear sway bars - got full OEM setups for this (front bar is a tarett piece)
21mm front torsion
26mm rear torsion
rear adjustable spring plate
turbo tie rods
Bilstein HD shocks (already installed)
New rubber all around on the suspension (already installed)
Tires are CN36 Pirelli "classics) in 185/70 profile
Ride height and alignment will be a bit more sporting but not too low - I think the below ride height is just right.
This will give me sort of a period 'sport' setup, the car has a nice strong 2.7L in it so its quick.
I'm targeting a very similar setup. The sway bars are both 18mm, with the fronts having the Weltmeister adjustable arms to be able to make the front a bit stiffer to get a better turn-in, front/rear, under/over steer balance. I'm going just a bit softer on the torsion bars: 20/24mm. The same Turbo tie rods. Similar target for a slightly lowered stance and a bump steer kit. And I decided to go with 7x16 Fuchs front and rear, beautifully restored by Rick Hard (Costa Mesa) with the anodized paddles. I chose 16's due to more tire choices than the 15 (although XWX and CN36 are great (but expensive) period-correct options).
Also, when you're done you might consider going to one of those GGR track sessions. If they're run as in the old days, they have run groups based upon the driver/car capability/speed. I imagine that if you had a 962 and drove it like a "little old lady," they'd let you be in the slowest run group. In other words, only pushing your and the car's limits to whatever you're comfortable with.
Also, when you're done you might consider going to one of those GGR track sessions. If they're run as in the old days, they have run groups based upon the driver/car capability/speed. I imagine that if you had a 962 and drove it like a "little old lady," they'd let you be in the slowest run group. In other words, only pushing your and the car's limits to whatever you're comfortable with.
If i track it it'll be a private day :-) Ive probably done 50 events with GGR and the red/advanced group is fine, but the lower groups are WAY too restrictive in rules with points and passing zones.
thanks for reminder on the bump steer kit.
On the tires, this thing will get timed out on tires not wear, so I'm ok w/ it.
Dropped off my steering wheel.
Shop had seats in and engine all buttoned up. Were doing trans gear oil. Oh and gasket on oil tank sending unit.
Now that it’s dry out will take car to drive it and get the bottom steam cleaned.
Will then scope out any leaks and start tuning the car.
Hopefully engine doesn’t need to come out for the clutch slipping and it’s just an adjustment.
Then chasis mods. Getting there :-)
Oh and probably going to change the ignition and get rid of the points. Shop will get back to me with options.
everyone thats seen the car comments how nice it is.
super happy with the seats!
And then comments on the door panels hahahah
need to figure that one out
Re getting the underside "steam cleaned," are you referring to a typical high-pressure, hot water DIY car wash, or an actual steam clean? If it's the latter, is that just a local operation, or some sort of a franchise business. I would love to find an actual "get it up in the air and steam clean the underside" operation here in the Denver-Colorado Springs area.
Re getting the underside "steam cleaned," are you referring to a typical high-pressure, hot water DIY car wash, or an actual steam clean? If it's the latter, is that just a local operation, or some sort of a franchise business. I would love to find an actual "get it up in the air and steam clean the underside" operation here in the Denver-Colorado Springs area.
Yes, there are a few of these in SoCal, the one most commonly used where I live is called Doctor Detail. Car goes up on a lift and 2 guys go at it with rain suits on, with steam cleaner/high pressure water and soft brushes. Wheels then come off and they do the wells/suspension. Takes them a few hours, results are good. Of course, you can pay WAY more for a thorough toothbrush job too. I had them do my 89 carrera after 25 years of muck, it still looks good, i just maintain it by wiping down every now and again. https://www.yelp.com/biz/doctor-detail-costa-mesa
Yeah the carpet is a grey perlon and looks nice. I have some cocomats to install.
I'm not sure. The work was done by Porschetechnik in Flagstaff, who is now known as Partsklassik.
I suspect it was one of their suppliers.
In looking at the receipts, I looks like it is this one by appbiz: https://www.partsklassik.com/p-886-c...-73-coupe.aspx
Suspension going on and alignment this week
Rear spring plates (painted black, stealth mode)
Front sway is on
Rear sways welded up
Tie rods on
Bought an RS rep steering wheel that is on, with horn button etc
Bought waffle vinyl to redo the door panels with an RSR type panel
Bought Hella 118 driving lights for the horn grills to blind SUVs with (will wire to LOW beam relays I installed :-) properly aimed of course)
Bought KN air filter setup for the carbs, need more induction noise
Ok I lied. I'm kinda hot rodding it. Just a little bit.
SICKNESS
01-17-2019, 12:01 PM
