Super90

How about wheels like this? Aren't these spares from a later car, then widen?

Spyerx

Super90

Agreed. It's "not bad though" !!!

I'm trying to be patient waiting for my Deep Sixes....thinking maybe I should convert the rears to Deep Sevens !

Spyerx

That green car looks FANTASTIC!

So... my car came with steelies, too bad they aren't w/ the car anymore :-( I do have the 1970 steel dates spare tho!

But, the Fuchs on the car are early 73 dated, flat 6 I guess they are called.

I am going to keep 185 profile tires on the car, square F/R

What are peoples thoughts on keeping the flat 6 up front and going with a later (I guess early 80s) 7" rear ? For a bit of dish.

A432

Nice '71, congrats. Bring it by the PEC on the 2nd., espresso @ 7:30am

myflat6

I love that steely look as well. I actually think that green car is running the aluminum spares from 964/993's - pretty popular upgrade for those looking for a hotrodded steely look but aluminum for weight savings - even the 356 guys are running these on their outlaws.

I am also struggling with what to go with. Performance wise I was thinking deep 6's and 7R's but those R's are actually really hard to find and very expensive - still may be worth it in the end. In my opinion you will want to match front and rear deep offset for the right look. However I am struggling myself with going away from the flat Fuch look. I already run the deep look on my SC (7's/8's) and the flat look is one of the things that catches my eye on these longhoods - it is a great look and unique to those years that used them. Good luck with the decision!

Super90

Harvey can make some sevens out of sixes....

😉

Spyerx

His work is amazing. What's the lead time, 2 years?

Ok, car is dropped off at the shop thursday. it will probably be there a few weeks for a list of "stuff". Mainly it's get it tuned up (need to re-jet for sea level), sport it up a bit, and align it. Those who know me know I'm slightly detail oriented, so finding a tech that will put up w/ my OCD can be tricky sometimes. The shop that works on my other cars I've been using for 6+ years, but they don't really specialize in pre-motronic cars. Anyway...

I dropped by the repo seats I got yesterday and they already had the seats out and the brake area apart and fixed the hand throttle issue. The plastic thing broke. I'd supplied him a new one. I'm pretty sure previous owner yanked it w/o pressing gas. Anyway, new seats ready to go in, just have to swap belt receiver.

Heres "the list". After doing an oil change and driving the car new 600 miles, it will drop 1-2 drops, its very minimal, so, unless it's a major issue we will keep that as it is. Probably the biggest "issue" is the OCCASIONAL clutch slpping, it's only done it a few times. I hope its adjustment, otherwise out the motor comes to fix it correct. Trans and full top end with rings were done 3k miles ago. Its possible RMS is seeping into trans bell housing. Anyway, they'll figure it out.

INSPECT
—Full post purchase inspection
—Nut/bolt all chassis/suspension
—inspect fuel lines / fire hazards - smell fuel odor outside car, not in, and no drips,or leaks, after driving and parking - vent or overflow? Smells like vapor, and it dissipates shortly after driving. No odor in the car at all when driving or running.

ENGINE
—Change oil and filter (supplied)
—Change fuel filter (supplied)
—Replace sump plate gasket, clean sump Screen (hardware supplied)
—Replace timing box gaskets, seepage on bottom (hardware/gaskets supplied)
—Replace fan belt (belt supplied)
—Replace & gap spark plugs, inspect (spark plugs supplied)
—adjust valves, replace gaskets (hardware/gaskets supplied)
—Oil seepage on tank at sensor, check and replace gasket
—Adjust carbs / re-jet carbs - were setup in flagstaff az at 6k elevation
—Check driver side carb slight dust indicating fuel seepage?
—Little pops on overrun, address with carb adjustment
—Identify seeping oil locations on engine and/or trans
—Check hand throttle function, non-op (replacement plastic part supplied)
—Replace missing pipe clamps/correct clamps on various hoses in engine/frunk on vent lines

TRANSMISSION
—Change trans oil (swepco supplied)
—check / Adjust clutch / occasional slipping in 3rd full throttle/ check adjustment - does not always slip
—Check shifter adjustment, r-1 a little difficult, 1-2 feels binding, 2-5 ok. —No grinding, no pop outs, seems like adjustment needed
—check seepage on driver side cv boot outer
—Fix speedo cable: clicking noise on deceleration from back/trans area followed by speedometer stopped working, clicking noise gone

BODY/INTERIOR
—replace batteries (supplied)
—Check heat boxes/hoses/piping on driver side no heat, pass side ok
—dash light behind heater controls nonop?
—Hood hard to pull - lube, check adjustment
—pass window a little tough to open / close. Check and advise
—Turn signal right (up) - very sensitive to cancel - check when replacing wheel with new wheel
—Wind noise/draft from front of car, with vents closed,where?
—touch up any needed undercoating
—treat and seal any found corrosion
—install RS type steering wheel (not yet arrived)
—Install sport seats (supplied)

BRAKES
—Flush brakes w/ Pentosin (supplied, install bleeder screw covers, supplied)
—Lightly pulsing brakes on light application
—Install porterfield R4S brake pads, bed pads (pads supplied)

SUSPENSION
—inspect bearings and play on front axles
—inspect bushings, play in bushings / ball joints
—install turbo tie rods, set toe (supplied)
—install front sway bar kit 18mm (supplied)
—install rear sway bar kit 18mm (not yet arrived)
—source and install 21/26 sway bars - Ideally Sanders hollow bars
—adjustable rear spring plates? Advise if better to allow balance/setup
—Setup alignment “Proper”, height, and rake. Back a little low? See pictures supplied

06C2s

Spyerx

That's why i put a few miles on the car before I get it to service. All the cars have a 'list' but usually its minor annoyances that i will eventually get to (like fixing the variable auto heat on my 89, that was a chore but fun to fix). I already inspected much of the electrical, put headlight relays in it, cleaned all contacts for all bulbs/fuses/fuse blocks. Heat, fuel, and electrical will kill these things! Oh, the headlight relays. So my headlight switch is new. And, it would get warm, not hot, but warm, after HL we're on. That means lots of current passing through it. After the relays. It's cold. Better for sure. Old wires + current = danger

There are different kinda of car OCD:
those that want mechanically sorted, perfect, clean, everything works, as designed/engineered - that's me
those that want things cosmetically perfect / new - that's not me (i'm ok with nice, but not too nice)
those that must have everything period and perfect to the factory - definitely not me - this is much of the early911 registry guys - the knowledge there is unbelievable, there is a thread on hose clamps that blows me away lol

So yeah, i'm a good person to buy a car from because you know it will work right. Problem is i spend too much time/$ with them and just keep them, because now they are known to me.

mooty

^ I forward the list to my guy
he said, "drop it off, I will bare metal and get it new again"

btw, to other long hood guru's.
I don't understand 7R and deep 6.
I know they are rare
BUT assuming I can get 7" to fit, then 7R and deep 6 are just for looks? not real performance benefit?

Spyerx

myflat6

Coming along

myflat6

Let me know who you use for rust repair.

Spyerx

The tech im using does full car builds and restorations, and is a fabricator. He'll do it. It may not need metal cut.
Its very minor, I'd say slightly more than surface and is old, looks like when they did the car body work they sort of patched it up, but im going to patch it up a little nicer. The location is the very front left of the front tub area.
He'll also give the under body a thorough once over and address any surface areas that need treatment and new underbody coating. Its really clean under there but just want to stay on top of it. These things are old and didn't have galvanized panels like the later cars.