Attempting to buy a 3.2,having second thoughts
03-18-2019, 02:22 AM
#91
Rennlist Member
Rust...paint issues...915 needs rebuild...140k on the original heads and valve train...without knowing anything else about the car I'd say $20-25k. How are the brake components? Suspension bushings, shocks, etc? Car values are mostly about condition, mechanical as well as cosmetic.
03-18-2019, 12:04 PM
#92
Rennlist Member
^^Thank you 911Dave for your input.
03-18-2019, 12:12 PM
#93
Advanced
Thread Starter
I wonder if there can be a sticky for buying advice from P-car owners for those of us still in the search.
I'm looking at these two
https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1133708
An 85 that has a recent top end and seems to be in excellent condition
or an 89
https://clients.automanager.com/0203...c11c2?Framed=1
What would be your guys' thoughts? The 89 is asking 59K, which I think is a little steep.
I'm looking at these two
https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1133708
An 85 that has a recent top end and seems to be in excellent condition
or an 89
https://clients.automanager.com/0203...c11c2?Framed=1
What would be your guys' thoughts? The 89 is asking 59K, which I think is a little steep.
03-18-2019, 01:07 PM
#94
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Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Check also the engine fuel hoses. They have some rubber hoses that is crimp fitted to steel pipes. They tend to get loose over time and can leak fuel. Check if the steel pipe rotate in the rubber hose. Expensive as spares, but a hydraulic shop can crimp new hoses to existing steel pipes.
In my Florida 1985 car they were all loose when I bought the car in 1995. It’s a 3.2 Carrera.
Basically you can safely purchase an old Porsche, it is very well built using quality components and parts are available.
Of course it also wear and an engine or transmission rebuild can get expensive. Do it yourself, it’s not rocket science, good manuals available and good result can be achieved if you understand what you do and what you don’t, you ask.
You need some tools of course.
Rust is a big problem, educate yourself so you know where the rust can be.
In my Florida 1985 car they were all loose when I bought the car in 1995. It’s a 3.2 Carrera.
Basically you can safely purchase an old Porsche, it is very well built using quality components and parts are available.
Of course it also wear and an engine or transmission rebuild can get expensive. Do it yourself, it’s not rocket science, good manuals available and good result can be achieved if you understand what you do and what you don’t, you ask.
You need some tools of course.
Rust is a big problem, educate yourself so you know where the rust can be.
03-18-2019, 01:27 PM
#95
Rennlist Member
I wonder if there can be a sticky for buying advice from P-car owners for those of us still in the search.
I'm looking at these two
https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1133708
An 85 that has a recent top end and seems to be in excellent condition
or an 89
https://clients.automanager.com/0203...c11c2?Framed=1
What would be your guys' thoughts? The 89 is asking 59K, which I think is a little steep.
I'm looking at these two
https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1133708
An 85 that has a recent top end and seems to be in excellent condition
or an 89
https://clients.automanager.com/0203...c11c2?Framed=1
What would be your guys' thoughts? The 89 is asking 59K, which I think is a little steep.
03-18-2019, 01:27 PM
#96
Rennlist Member
Check also the engine fuel hoses. They have some rubber hoses that is crimp fitted to steel pipes. They tend to get loose over time and can leak fuel. Check if the steel pipe rotate in the rubber hose. Expensive as spares, but a hydraulic shop can crimp new hoses to existing steel pipes.
In my Florida 1985 car they were all loose when I bought the car in 1995. It’s a 3.2 Carrera.
Basically you can safely purchase an old Porsche, it is very well built using quality components and parts are available.
Of course it also wear and an engine or transmission rebuild can get expensive. Do it yourself, it’s not rocket science, good manuals available and good result can be achieved if you understand what you do and what you don’t, you ask.
You need some tools of course.
Rust is a big problem, educate yourself so you know where the rust can be.
In my Florida 1985 car they were all loose when I bought the car in 1995. It’s a 3.2 Carrera.
Basically you can safely purchase an old Porsche, it is very well built using quality components and parts are available.
Of course it also wear and an engine or transmission rebuild can get expensive. Do it yourself, it’s not rocket science, good manuals available and good result can be achieved if you understand what you do and what you don’t, you ask.
You need some tools of course.
Rust is a big problem, educate yourself so you know where the rust can be.
03-18-2019, 01:30 PM
#97
Rennlist Member
I wonder if there can be a sticky for buying advice from P-car owners for those of us still in the search.
I'm looking at these two
https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1133708
An 85 that has a recent top end and seems to be in excellent condition
or an 89
https://clients.automanager.com/0203...c11c2?Framed=1
What would be your guys' thoughts? The 89 is asking 59K, which I think is a little steep.
I'm looking at these two
https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1133708
An 85 that has a recent top end and seems to be in excellent condition
or an 89
https://clients.automanager.com/0203...c11c2?Framed=1
What would be your guys' thoughts? The 89 is asking 59K, which I think is a little steep.
I could write paragraphs about what's wrong with the '89, but I'll start with the fact that it also has either backdated heat or no heat at all (all the original heater components are missing from the engine bay) and the entire A/C system has been removed. The paint looks very dull in the pictures. The engine is modified and the Euro pistons/cylinders have 10.3:1 compression which requires 93 octane gas. The 964 cams are usually a good upgrade during a rebuild. The rubber components of the rear bumper are absent. There's a useless cam tower brace in the trunk. Aftermarket steering wheel, radio and little bits here and there are not original. The interior shows much more wear than I would expect for a car of that mileage. My guess is that this car was tracked a lot, rode hard and put away wet. I think it's barely a $40k car, much less $60k. I'd move on.
03-18-2019, 01:31 PM
#98
Rennlist Member
Part of my complete engine rebuild all (engine bay) oil, fuel and vacuum lines were replaced including clutch slave and hose line to it.
03-18-2019, 01:52 PM
#99
Advanced
Thread Starter
The description of that '85 sounds good, but I'm always leery of non-professionals doing their own engine rebuilds. The fact that the heat has been backdated means that the original heat exchangers and catalytic converter have been replaced with headers or SSI's, which means the car won't pass emissions check, if that matters to you. It sounds like it has good working A/C system so that's a plus. There is only one picture provided and it shows nothing about the car except that it's red. This car might be worth pursuing but I'd start by asking for lots more pictures and ensuring that all the work that's been done is documented and verified via receipts. I can't stand the red wheels but that's a personal thing.
I could write paragraphs about what's wrong with the '89, but I'll start with the fact that it also has either backdated heat or no heat at all (all the original heater components are missing from the engine bay) and the entire A/C system has been removed. The paint looks very dull in the pictures. The engine is modified and the Euro pistons/cylinders have 10.3:1 compression which requires 93 octane gas. The 964 cams are usually a good upgrade during a rebuild. The rubber components of the rear bumper are absent. There's a useless cam tower brace in the trunk. Aftermarket steering wheel, radio and little bits here and there are not original. The interior shows much more wear than I would expect for a car of that mileage. My guess is that this car was tracked a lot, rode hard and put away wet. I think it's barely a $40k car, much less $60k. I'd move on.
I could write paragraphs about what's wrong with the '89, but I'll start with the fact that it also has either backdated heat or no heat at all (all the original heater components are missing from the engine bay) and the entire A/C system has been removed. The paint looks very dull in the pictures. The engine is modified and the Euro pistons/cylinders have 10.3:1 compression which requires 93 octane gas. The 964 cams are usually a good upgrade during a rebuild. The rubber components of the rear bumper are absent. There's a useless cam tower brace in the trunk. Aftermarket steering wheel, radio and little bits here and there are not original. The interior shows much more wear than I would expect for a car of that mileage. My guess is that this car was tracked a lot, rode hard and put away wet. I think it's barely a $40k car, much less $60k. I'd move on.
Appreciate the advice, though! This is what I'm talking about - you saved me $800 on a PPI I was quoted for getting on the '89.
03-18-2019, 01:58 PM
#100
Rennlist Member
03-18-2019, 07:35 PM
#101
Very informative thread! Thanks for starting it :-)
I may be able to get my hands on a 1984 3.2 Coupe. A friend of mine purchased it back in 2002 with 80,000ish miles.
It currently has about 140,000 miles.
Mechanically its in great shape but he said the transmission is in need of a some love, he can manage it since he double clutch sifts up and rev matches down shifts but he recommends getting the transmission serviced.
Cosmetically it could use a few minor touch up and surface rust repairs but over all its a solid car.
We are good friends so we are trying to come up with a fair price keeping in mind it would be an easy transaction for both of us.
So... any estimates from you folks on what $ value we should put on it?
Please and thank you :-)
I may be able to get my hands on a 1984 3.2 Coupe. A friend of mine purchased it back in 2002 with 80,000ish miles.
It currently has about 140,000 miles.
Mechanically its in great shape but he said the transmission is in need of a some love, he can manage it since he double clutch sifts up and rev matches down shifts but he recommends getting the transmission serviced.
Cosmetically it could use a few minor touch up and surface rust repairs but over all its a solid car.
We are good friends so we are trying to come up with a fair price keeping in mind it would be an easy transaction for both of us.
So... any estimates from you folks on what $ value we should put on it?
Please and thank you :-)
Owner was too cheap to fix the tranny. $6k at least.
I'd buy a well maintained car.
Or just go in with eyes wide open.
Everything can be fixed, but the discount rarely balances it out.
Car needing $20k of work will sell for $7k off market price.
03-18-2019, 09:59 PM
#103
Rennlist Member
I get where you are coming from and if it was a stranger selling the car your point could be spot on. But its not a stranger, its a good friend and he is discounting the car based on the known issues.
From an overall maint perspective it has been very well cared for.
Regular Oil changes every 4000 to 6000 miles or at least once a year with 20/50 Motorcycle Oil with high levels of zinc to protect the the valve train, I got confirmation today that it only uses a quart of oil every 3000ish miles.
The brakes were fully serviced with new rotors, calipers and pads on all 4 corners. The fuel injection system was serviced, including replacing the Fuel Pump and Idler control.
The rust is only surface on the passenger rocker panel.
It always goes into hibernation with a full tank of fuel, gas stabilizer, a battery tender and a blankie :-) We live in the North East where our Cars go to sleep around Oct/Nov until March/April.
03-18-2019, 10:04 PM
#104
Rennlist Member
Buy a dry, non salt road car and youre a few steps ahead.
Good news is a 100 mi day with top down in socal today makes me smile. I have a small fleet of cars to drive and the 1988 911 is always high on the list.
No power steering, no power brakes, sound is amazing still a hoot to drive.
Life is short.
Good news is a 100 mi day with top down in socal today makes me smile. I have a small fleet of cars to drive and the 1988 911 is always high on the list.
No power steering, no power brakes, sound is amazing still a hoot to drive.
Life is short.