myflat6

I should go check that place out - excuse for a P car cruise

myflat6

No calipers yet - set to be delivered to me Tuesday. Went ahead and finished the passenger side e-brake assembly and hub and flange. I had the hub in the freezer nestled by the Eggos for a few days this time - didn't seem to make a difference as it was a little difficult to insert into the new bearing - just as the driver side - but hey it's done!

myflat6

Tired of waiting for rear calipers to arrive so I went ahead and put the front end up on wood blocks and started to assess the work ahead of me. I knew the front was a mess when I bought it but it might be even worse than expected. Passenger side looks decent but driver side is bad. So here is what I know so far:
- Front pan replacement job looks sloppy and suspect. No protectant or undercoating was sprayed after it was done (prior owner said this was done in the 80's) so there is surface corrosion on the replacement sheet metal - but doesn't look bad at all - however, the seams where the new pan was welded in look quite rusty - we will see how bad when I start to strip it down. The reality is that it might just need to be cut out and done over again anyway.
- There is an area on the driver's side front down low (front and below battery box) that is rusted through.
- The driver side front fender shows evidence of a minor collision. Crappy Repairs were done to it and again the areas weren't protected afterwards and are rusting - especially along the seam where it meets the tub. I am worried about the area up high closest to the door/ A pillar and cowl. Guess I will know what I am in for when I take that fender off.
- Suspension and steering components look tired and crusty
- Gas tank is a bit scraped up.
- Headlight buckets will need repairs/replacement

So here goes round two

Spyerx

myflat6

Oh I know a full respray in Signal Yellow is in my future - as well as interior work and expensive motor work. Trying to take it one step at a time so I don't get overwhelmed . I bought this car right so I will be fine with total investment when she is done -- whenever that is

r911

check under the F. A-arm mounts for rust

rxtrom

Looking good BIll! The rear is coming together nicely. You have to eat an elephant one bite at a time..

myflat6

^thanks! Very true. I keep telling myself one section of the car at a time.

Spyerx

I need to learn this behavior :-)

If this were mine (and keep in mind, i'm still poking around my car... who knows what else I could find) I'd fix anything that is structural/very necessary now and just enjoy the car for a while.Pics you showed don't look bad at all. All fixable.

myflat6

^luckily I have 2 others to enjoy while this one is being brought back to life. I do understand what you are saying. My hope is to get suspension and brakes done then fuel lines and anything important I find along the way - then enjoy her for a while until I move onto body repair, paint and the motor. But that may change as I continue working on her

myflat6

So you know how you can describe nuts/bolts/fasteners on old cars - they are tight as hell!!!

The rear suspension gave me some fits, and now the front is busting my knuckles. Those of you that have had to remove the strut wedge bolts, ball joint retainers and tie rod ends know what a PITA these can be. First everything was soaked in PB Blaster. I tried a large c clamp on the wedge bolt and bent the clamp! then had to upgrade to a really large c clamp to crank the bolt out -hard to describe how much force it took from this large clamp to press these bolts out. The end of one of the bolts was smashed by the time it was popped free (see in photo). Then on to the tie rod ends - tried a puller designed for this which didn't work, then went Neanderthal and used a pickle fork,with a 2 foot cheater to put a lot of pressure while whacking the bolt with a hammer - finally came free - passenger side a little easier. The ball joint retainers were also very difficult to remove. Bought special socket and had to use 2 ft cheater bar. Good fun

Archer911

r911

penetrants require time to work - often, several days at least; AND you want to tap on it with a steel hammer a few hundred times too

whenever I buy an old car, I hose down all the suspension fasteners with a penetrant then repeat each year for the yearly inspection

a torch is the 2nd to last option (right before EDM)

myflat6

^^i am sure they will go ok. I have done the turbo tie rods on my SC and it was pretty easy. I maintain both my SC and 993 and never have had issues removing things like I have had with this car. Age (my T is 47 years old and everything is still original that I have removed so far) and corrosion makes things much more difficult.

myflat6

I definitely should have let the penetrant soak longer.