Indiana Jones

Hello, longtime lurker, in the market for what I originally wanted...a long hood outlaw/hotrod. I am currently in the market and in negotiations for 1973 911E that is set up as a track/race car, that I will be returning to a street car. At a glance, it is in need of a motor, some interior bits, and some glass...


I put together a general list of the car as it sits and the owner has responded to the list (see below)...still no clue what the right price is for it. If you have any ideas after reading below, please chime in! Also, if you think I may have overlooked something please let me know.

1973 Porsche 911E: Clean Title In Hand to be transferred to me upon sale with Bill of Sale.

Suspension-
Needs: Nothing?
Included: All suspension included...bilstein shocks, please remind of current setup. - Correct
To Be Included: Porsche Suspension. Car handles very, very well. May want to raise the ride height but totally up to you

Engine/Trans-
Needs: Motor, new oil system/lines.. (~7500) - Correct
Included: 915 Trans w/ Guard LSD - gearing info (decent for the street)? – it’s actually a Porsche factory LSD with gearing that should be OK for street
To Be Included: Engine parts can be negotiated in the deal. I have 46MM PMOs, Fan, Fan Housing, Clutch, Flywheel. I’d recommend buying these PMOs or a complete set that are in good working order. Wrong carb set up can drive you nuts! Will throw in flowmaster mufflers.

Interior-
Needs: seats and rails (1800), driver and passenger window (800), front window is plexi. (400 with new seal), removal of cage (all in ~3,000), fuel gauge? – There is a fuel gauge that could be hooked up should you have a cell/ tank that has the sending unit. Wiring is all there. The current cell does not have a sending unit, but you can actually just look in the tank to see how much fuel you have.
Included: carpet, door cards, dash is in good condition – Yes. Passenger door does not have an internal latch, but one can be added (same as driver’s door) for very little money.
To Be Included: original tach & clock - Correct

Exterior & Paint-
Needs: trunk & hood alignment (best case - 300 with paint. worst case hood and trunk needed 1000). Color Change (1500-2000) – Correct, but these two panels are adjustable with some TLC.
Included: Wipers - Correct
To Be Included: extras? – Sold as is

Brakes-
Needs: Nothing? – I’d recommend new pads. I have a couple of sets for the front that I will include. Rears will need to be changed.
Included: Porsche "S" Disk Brakes, Aluminum Calipers (rebuilt recently), pagid brake pads, good rotors plus additional set – Correct
To Be Included: - Included parts listed above

Rims/Tires-
Needs: Tires (1000) - Correct
Included: Factory Fuchs 16x7, Minilites 16x9 - need a respray? – Could professionally respray of do it yourself using high temp engine paint.
To Be Included: - Sold as is

Miscellaneous-
Wiring of blinkers, battery, bushings, etc. – One more thing I thought of is the speedometer. Wiring is still in the car for the speedo but will need to be hooked up. Or, you could just go with the flow of traffic… ha!

Indiana Jones

Some pics...

GTgears

Has no motor at all? Good luck getting something decent at that $7500 number. This car is a race car rolling chassis. $12-15k, maybe less. No more.

Indiana Jones

It does have a tranny, and it is a 911E...I have heard some higher numbers, which is exactly why I asked here. Not quite sure what it is worth...hmm trying to find comps aren't the easiest. Anyone else care to chime in?

GTgears

What's the asking price.

Indiana Jones

Owner is looking for around 25k...

tcsracing1

it is a tub with title.

It is missing alot of stuff that you will need.

It will end up being a ground up resto with a massive hunt for parts.

I would suggest a more complete street car.

Look for a really good driver and begin hot rodding from there.

Unless you want to build your 100k+ dream car from the ground up.

Indiana Jones

I appreciate the feedback...and intuition is telling me if two people are saying "expensive headache" that there is certainly some truth there, but I fail to see how the car would be 100k. Pay 20k for it as it sits, spend 15k on the motor, 5k on interior, 5k on exterior (although I am fine with the car as it sits), 5k on miscellaneous...and I am in for ~50k. If I were to move forward would you have any idea on a fair price for the car?

Indiana Jones

Not sure if I clarified, but I am not looking for a 3.8 monster, or anything that is showroom/concours quality, just something that presents well with enough hp to have a little fun.

GTgears

Look for a 69-73 t or e without original motor. A lot of them got 3.0 sc engines put in over the years. Nice drivers in the $40-60k range. look on samba and pelican parts and he ready to take a flight or two and pay for some ppis.

tcsracing1

You could built a ratty hot rod for that money.

Personally, i would want correct guages, glass, lights, panel fitment, interior bits etc.

Labour can add up quick on these things too

tcsracing1

In this market, you are better off buying something already completed and running. Just make sure PPI is in place and you are not over paying.
Building always cost more then anticipated.

I have two 1969T bodies with titles. Both are very good.
I have stripped them down to the bare metal, performed neccessary metal work and now getting them ready to show as bare metal rollers ready for paint this christmas.

I will sell one and keep one.

I have a blank canvas to build what i want on either car however i will need to start at ground zero for wiring, engine/tranny, lights, interior, glass, door guts, dash, gauges, fuel system, exhaust, wheels, brakes, suspension, bumpers etc...

This could add up depending on what i choose to use. It will be spectacular however.

Realistically, i would want to find a rust bucket to salvage all these bits that i need. Typically race cars wouldnt have any of these things that i would need... Which is why i wouldnt suggest starting with a race car. Unless it has a good tub and clean title for a low price. But you still need all the bits....

Indiana Jones

The only reason I am considering the above race/track car is due to the fact that there is no rust, and it is flared out to ST already, which is what I am looking for...meaning NO body work needed, although I may want to change from Gelb Green to something a tad more subtle. It has carpet and all the gauges, headliner, lights are all working too. Ready to go so far as suspension, brakes, tranny are concerned.

It needs seats, front window, drivers and passenger glass, and a motor.



The key takeaway from your last post is "Unless it has a good tub and clean title for a low price."

Tub is good...not so sure on price!?! I have heard run away from the car under any circumstances, and I have also heard 22-25k is good deal for the car. I am still scratching my head, but my limited knowledge tells me that if body is rust free and it has a clean title a nice roller with no body needs is worth ~20k...and that the tranny, brakes, suspension/rims are all a bonus.

GTgears

Something conspicuously absent from the details on the exterior in your post above is glass or steel. As such, I assumed glass. You don't want glass for a street rod. At least that's my opinion. If this car is glass you are looking at thousansd in body panels to make it, as Tom said, spectacular.

Now if that car is all in steel, then the price starts to make a little more sense. Who built it and using what parts matters on a car like this.

I passed on a 70 911S Bill Rader built vintage racecar with 906 spec engine on an unstamped T replacement case, airport ratio box Guard LSD, RSR coilover conversion, etc. etc. and enclosed trailer for $40k about 6 years ago. It was all in glass, that was the only hit on the car and why I passed and got a 67 912 instead. A car like that is worth every cent of street car reversion but I wasn't ready to open my wallet far enough to bring it back. Is this green ca worth? I think it's questionable.

Indiana Jones

Sorry for the confusion, and thanks again for the fast responses, but the car is ALL STEEL minus the engine hatch and rear bumper. The only "glass" that is needed is the front windshield and driver/passenger windows...ST Flares are steel as all are all the other panels.