CV joint disassembly tips please! - Rennlist Discussion Forums



CV joint disassembly tips please!

 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-09-2004, 11:32 AM   #1
garrett376
C4 Specialist
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,003
Question CV joint disassembly tips please!

Hi Guys, I have read numerous posts so I know many of you have actually done this procedure - but it's not mentioned in any of the procedural descriptions:
how do you disassemble the actual CV so you can remove the "engine-side" end (the joint itself) to pull off the boots?

I was about to pound off the gold colored "cap" on the end of the drive shaft, where I believe I'd find some retaining bolts. Before I potentially mash up the thin metal cover, I wanted to be sure that's the approach that works best!

Thanks as usual!! I might just make it to the start/finish on time!
garrett376 is online now  
Old 11-09-2004, 02:59 PM   #2
Dunasso
User
 
Dunasso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 756
Thumbs up

Garrett, The gold cover on the inside cv does need to be removed. With a standard screwdriver and a hammer should be able to tap it off easily working your way around the circufirance. Behind that cover you will find a clip. You will need circlip pliers to take it out or 2 small screwwdrivers. Be careful not to bend or lose the clip because you will need it when you re-install the cv. At this point the cv should slide off with a little effort assuming you have already removed the other gold cover that holds the boot in place. If you haven't then do so in the same manner in which you removed the cover. Now it may be in your best interest not allow the ball bearings in the joint to fall out if you want to clean it. However if you are replacing with a new joint then your task is half over, just repeat everything in reverse( after adding the cv lube and new boot ofcoarse). But, if you are cleaning and re-installing the old joint then you do not have to completely disassemble the joint once it is off the shaft. Just take the joint (as a whole) to the parts washer and clean it. Be careful not to let the center rotate enough for the bearings to fall out. This really is not that big of a deal if they do come out, but it will be easier if they didn't.
As for the outer joint; the gold ring does not come off and cleaning is a bit more thedious.
Remove the boot, stand the axle and outer cv assembly upright in the parts washer and point the solvent down into the joint. Now comes the fun part; while the solvent is runnig in the cv pull the axle up and down and round and around. This creates a washing machine effect and all the old grease will run out the bottom "eventually". You can expect to have to do this for around 20-30-mins or until the solvent appears clean when it comes out the threaded end of the cv joint. When you are finished make sure that you have all the solvent out of the joint before working in the new grease.
Put on the new boot.
install new boot for the inner joint.
install new or cleaned inner cv w/grease.
install retainer clip and you are done.

Duncan
Dunasso is offline  
Old 11-09-2004, 03:53 PM   #3
garrett376
C4 Specialist
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,003
Default

That's great - thanks Duncan, I really appreciate the play-by-play. I'll take some pics of the "operation" tonight when I get home for other's future reference!
garrett376 is online now  
Old 11-09-2004, 07:43 PM   #4
Dunasso
User
 
Dunasso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 756
Default

Glad to be of help, and good luck with it. The whole job usually takes around 2hrs.
Dunasso is offline  
Old 11-09-2004, 09:21 PM   #5
PC2
User
 
PC2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: N. OC, CA
Posts: 1,061
Default

Garrett.

I did this about 2 months ago and had trouble taking the joints off the shaft. The joints are pressed in and just wouldn't come off. I ended up putting it all back together and paid my mechanic to do the job. He used a "puller contraption" to take off the joints.

PC2 is offline  
Old 11-09-2004, 10:50 PM   #6
horst
Specialist
Rennlist Member

 
horst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: springfield, MO USA
Posts: 802
Default

I have doen this with my 930. I found it instructive to take the ***** out, so as to inspect them for wear before re-lubing & re-installing. I have not yet done it with my 964. I learned the hard way about the bolts that hold the joints to the flanges: allegedly they are 1-time use only. A friend drew a sross section of the threads and they supposedly have a slight upward bias, so as to bite in better and hold. Being a cheapskate, and none were immediately available anyhow, I re-used the old ones, giving each one 2 grunts of torque. Couple of weeks later, I was backing out of the garage, heard a "clunk", car stopped, and I looked underneath, and was horrified to see that the inner driver side joint had fallen off! At speed, that would have been a disaster. I put things back together, cleaning the bolts with laquer thinner, the holes with a Q tip, then used locktite, and 3 grunts of torque. No problems after that. Good luck.
horst is offline  
Old 11-10-2004, 11:19 AM   #7
garrett376
C4 Specialist
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,003
Talking Mission accomplished!

Hi guys - thanks for the tips. Everything went without a hitch last night! Since I am a visual guy, I like pictures, so I am posting some pics to show future folks what it looks like.

I had one cracked boot on the outer (wheel) joint, so being already overbudget, decided that replacing ONE boot was all the budget committee would permit.

Removing the little metal clips that affix each side of the boot was easy. I even re-used them and they look to be holding with just as much tension as before. I did add some grease here and there, but you can see that the inner joint that I had to remove, had plenty! That stuff is messy - it's hard to take pictures, so excuse the out of focus ones - I gotta snap pics before the camera gets greasy or the engine drips on me!!

There was truly nothing difficult about the boot swap - took about an hour. One word of advice is to be sure to place the 6 allen-head screws and their little backing plates on the joint FIRST, then slide on the boot into its final position. If you put the boot on first, you can't get the screws on there without potentially ripping the boot - which would definitely send me over budget (yes, I know they were only $14 each!!!!). I reused just about everything except the old cracked boot! The only special tool I used was my circlip pliers that you see in the picture that I was forced to get when I replaced the dizzy belt - what a wonderful tool!!!

Enjoy the pics and thanks again for the tips!
Attached Images
        
garrett376 is online now  
Old 11-12-2004, 01:03 AM   #8
Dunasso
User
 
Dunasso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 756
Default

I see that you obviously had no problem gettn'r'done. Nice pics, they should open few eyes to ease of this job (next to the mess).
Duncan
Dunasso is offline  
Old 11-12-2004, 01:14 AM   #9
PC2
User
 
PC2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: N. OC, CA
Posts: 1,061
Default

Hmmm.......I'm puzzled as to how your joints can be taken off without much force. Mine was pressed on and won't budge at all. Could it be a difference between manual and tiptronic transmission? Anyway, great job & pics.

PC2 is offline  
Old 11-12-2004, 02:16 AM   #10
garrett376
C4 Specialist
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,003
Default

Once the c-clip was off, I did have to use a hammer to give it a few taps - mind you: taps! I didn't slug at it, and it did slide off quite easily. I was curious to find that the splines were rust-colored - maybe yours were corroded so they were stuck. Unlikely, for a California car, though...

One more of many, many jobs complete!!!
garrett376 is online now  
Old 11-14-2004, 12:35 PM   #11
964porschedude
User
 
964porschedude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: California "Arnoldville"
Posts: 40
Default

I changed out all four boots last summer on my 964, and my son's CRX yesterday. This has got to be the second messiest job of all times.

Years ago while living at my parents house, I remember the wrath that fell upon me when I brought in what I'll call "Carpet Bombs". Definition: Carpet Bomb - Small, pin head size glob of automotive grease that explodes into several two inch round grease spots on the living-room carpet.

One must assure that all carpet bombs have the safeties engaged or are removed before entering the carpeted room.

I must applaud the boot R & R on the car, but I have found that removing the whole shaft is easier for me. Especially when one doesn’t bend as well as one used to…

First messiest job, in my opinion, is a 911 engine disassembly.

Keith
964porschedude is offline  
Old 11-14-2004, 02:49 PM   #12
bhensarl
Jarhead
Rennlist Member

 
bhensarl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Del Mar, CA
Posts: 1,439
Default

Thanks for all the great pics, Garrett. As per usual, another project to add to the list.
Brian Hensarling
bhensarl is offline  
Old 01-09-2005, 08:40 PM   #13
wrandyh
User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 23
Default

Helpful Hint: I'm getting ready to replace the two right side boots as the outer on my '88 911 Targa has a slit in it. Today I broke two tools trying to break the stub axle nut loose. Then my buddy suggested applying heat to the nut and axle. After heating the pair sufficiently, the nut came off with a breaker bar with no problem. That's the helpful hint. Now I have to figure out how to retorque the thing to 339 ft-lb when I reassemble it!!!
wrandyh is offline  
Old 01-09-2005, 09:16 PM   #14
garrett376
C4 Specialist
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,003
Default

Save the trouble and just leave the CV joint connected as I did - save you battling that bear of a nut...
garrett376 is online now  
Old 08-13-2005, 12:16 PM   #15
nekbet
User
 
nekbet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Dayton, OH, USA
Posts: 185
Default

Duncan, you should BOLD the text that says "As for the outer joint; the gold ring does not come off and cleaning is a bit more thedious." !!! :-)

I worked for an hour last night trying to get them separated to clean it all out... I ended up repacking grease and putting everything back together. Doh!

That said, everything was extermely helpful in this thread. Is it ending up in the DIY forum?

Cheers,

Mike Green
1990 911 C4 Targa
nekbet is offline  
 

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
CV Joint quick Q stimpy32 964 Forum 8 01-30-2017 12:52 AM
Remove inner CV joint flange? StratfordShark 928 Forum 11 09-01-2016 02:34 PM
CV joints: How do I remove the cap? Charley B 928 Forum 14 10-02-2012 06:17 AM
Constant Velocity Joints – 1985 Porsche 911 glenncof 911 Forum 2 02-09-2007 12:49 AM
CV joint disassembly Dunasso 964 (1989 - 1994 911) 3 01-09-2005 09:16 PM


Tags
300, 911, 914, axle, boxster, cv, disassemble, disassembly, joint, mercedes, outer, porsche, specialist, stub, timing, washers

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -3. The time now is 07:35 PM.


Copyright © 1998 - 2017 Rennlist.com