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Easy Peasy, No Drill, Bumper On, Magnetic Front Plate Mount

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Old 03-11-2021, 10:38 AM
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SpeedySpidey
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Default Easy Peasy, No Drill, Bumper On, Magnetic Front Plate Mount

Solution For ‘20, ‘21 Spyder’s and GT4’s.
3/23/21. I have updated this original post after completing the project.
3/29/21. I have added a screenshot I just saw showing what is above the under bumper area in case you want to screw in your Mounting Plate (PPF application).


You’ll have to determine if this applies to other years and models.
Here’s what I am in the process of doing after numerous prototypes and tests.

Let me know if you have any questions, I’ll try to explain in detail what I did and why I did it.

First, I wanted to easily be able to mount and remove that ugly front plate that my state required.

Within seconds... and after installing the final job, it literally takes 5 seconds to mount and three seconds to remove it.

Not just to have a no Drill plate, but to get the gosh darn thing outta my sight, anytime I’m outside of the car looking at it. This could be at Cars & Coffee, a Car Show, or most importantly... IN MY OWN GARAGE AT NIGHT, AFTER A FEW PINTS, WHEN I JUST WANT TO ADMIRE THE BEAUTY OF THIS CAR WITHOUT THAT STUPID PLATE RUINING THAT GORGEOUS FRONT END! 😂

First and foremost, kudos to anyone and everyone who came up with a solution or bought a product that they showcased here, including the professional kits. I honestly don’t think I’d have come up with this idea if it would not have been for the ideas I read about and researched. And who knows, even though I made several prototypes, my final result could also be flawed. Someone else might improve upon it, so let’s keep it moving forward 👍

I liked the idea of a magnetic mount, but I really didn’t want to remove the bumper on a brand new car (too risky).
There had to be an easier way to do this. I’m very confident that this will work as I’ve bench tested it.
Fabrication not required, but I happened to make my brackets. It’s not that hard to do, but if you don’t know how, or don’t have the materials and tools, you can easily find similar brackets (search for Simpson strong ties and tie plates) and apply the same principles. These materials can easily be purchased from your local hardware store, or the Orange Apron conglomerate, or the Smile... there are many easy solutions that you can source to follow the basic principles I’ve outlined here.

Parts List:
L Bracket (or two if yours are smaller)
Mounting Plate (mine will be 3” x 8” for 3 rows of 1” Gorilla tape)
No Drill Option: Gorilla Heavy Duty, double face mounting tape
Note: If you have PPF option: some sort of thin foam pad and 4 screws or rivets.
Factory Plate Mount
Plate Frame (optional)
Neoprene washers, or some other type of plastic spacer
Felt Pads or Rubber Bumpers (I had the pads, so I’m trying them first)
Screws** (not pictured, I’m going to purchase #8 Stainless, 3/8”)
**Or Steel Rivets, of you’d rather not have screw points exposed
Screw caps if you’re using screws.
Plastic Glue and Gorilla Heavy Duty, double face mounting tape
Primer and Paint (I’ll be using Rustoleum. #7777 Satin Black)
Silicone Caulk, a dab to cover the screws and exposed steel in the magnet core
and K&J Magnetics https://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=6
Two (2) Neodymium RMD-B-X8 30 lb Magnets. These are encased in a silicone rubber and are corrosion resistant except for the mounting core.
These are strong magnets, watch your fingers! And don’t go letting them smack into each other, they could break!
Please Read all the warnings from K&J’s website!



The current Spyder/GT4 design has a perfect place to mount a steel plate. I will refer to this area as the Under Bumper. It’s very low and mostly out of sight,

*If you already have PPF, you can probably still do this mount, but I would recommend Screwing or Riveting the mounting plate to the under bumper area. The downward force and Gorilla double face tape could cause the PPF to delaminate from the Clear Coat. I would also use a thin padded buffer between the mounting Plate and the under bumper paint in case you ever decide to remove it.

3/29/21 Pic added showing what is above this area... looks “All Clear” to screw into



I ended up making a 7 x 2.625 mounting plate for my Under Bumper, I put a curve into it to mirror the curve of the under bumper... three inches is too wide due to the curved bumper, it will stick out if at the outer corners if it’s three inches.
Then I’m making the “L” Bracket to hold the factory plate mount, the license plate and the plastic plate frame.
This will hold the magnets and the plate, etc.
I made mine because I’m a nut 🌰 I like having a DNA connection to my cars, and I probably won’t make the changes that a lot of you are doing to your cars.
You can probably purchase something similar to these at your hardware store and modify

Note: watch the overall weight of the whole front plate assembly. With everything, mine weighs in at 1.25 lbs. even though the magnets are rated at 30 lbs, it’s all about the physics of the downward force.

Steve at K&J Magnetics (they were super helpful, I can’t recommend them enough), warned me that bigger isn’t always better. With his guidance, the RMD-B-X8’s round ones that I settled on appear to be strong enough when tested, but not too strong to cause problems when trying to remove the bracket from the mounting plate.





The Bevel of the under bumper makes the L Bracket opening approximately 100 degrees, a bit more open than a 90* bend. You’ll have to bend it open with a vice or something to make the factory plate mount flush. It’s not a requirement, but otherwise if you left at 90*, the bottom of the plate mount will be sticking out farther and the plate will be leaning back at the top.

You’ll also have to test the height of your L bracket to make up the dimension of the magnet, etc. thickness. You can always mount the license plate in front of the L Bracket, but be leary of the total weight. I would recommend the total weight should be around 1 lb. You can bench test your assembly before you mount it to the car. Mount the magnets to a piece of wood and attached the final L bracket/plate assembly to it. Then shake it hard emulating hitting a pot hole. See if it comes off the magnets. This was how I tested it. Be reasonable with that test, if you bounce it and snap it with all your might, it’s probably going to come off. Try to emulate real world conditions (unless you’re planning on going 4 wheeling &#128514.

I also padded the back of my factory mount with felt pads and plastic or rubber washers to build up the gap. I don’t want the plastic factory mount to come into contact with the paint, so I protected it as shown. I added felt to all the contact points. Now, even if it makes contact with the paint, the pad will keep the factory mount from touching the paint. I’m not sure how the felt pads will hold up, I’ll remove it when I’m washing the car, but I’m not saying that it’s never going to get rained on. I had them, so I’m trying them. You might want to go straight to rubber.

Also, I will constantly inspect the whole assembly every time I take it off or put it on. YMMV.


Parts I used.



I built up the top by gluing rubber washers and then applying felt pads, the middle bumpers showing no protection do not touch after the buildup of the top and bottom.



I extended my magnets out a bit to avoid a metal to metal hit. The rubber encased magnets have a bit of give to them as I attach it to the base plate.
Note the 100 degree bend. If you buy a 90 degree bracket, you might want to bend it open a bit more to 100*



a dab of silicone and wipe smooth to protect the exposed steel inside the magnet.



30 lb. Gorilla 2/S mounting tape... decent online ratings and YouTube video tests. Seems good so far. We’ll see how it holds up after pulling the 30 lb. magnets off a few dozen times, along with the exposure to rain and car washing. I might screw it in under there in the future, but hopefully, the tape will hold up.



My home made mounting plate installed in the under bumper area. I super cleaned the paint before “sticking it” using masking tape (not shown) to guide the placement... you want to get this into the right position on the first try. Notice how I added a curve that matches the bumper above it. Not necessary, but test fit your mounting plate before you stick it. You want the magnets on the bracket to get full contact with the mount.


...and there she be 👍 with an old plate to boot, as I won’t have it on the road for a few more weeks yet. So far I’m pretty happy with the results. When I install it I tilt the bracket assembly top out (forward) and using the factory dimples, I align it. Then raise it up until the backs of the magnets touch and you feel the slight pull. Then gently lean the plate assembly back until it fully contacts withe the under bumper mounting plate.


Barely touching, I like a little gap... I will have to monitor the wind bumping the plate assembly into the bumper, so I want to limit the friction points. I will post back if I see any wear scratches in the bumper paint.

Last edited by SpeedySpidey; 03-29-2021 at 11:38 AM. Reason: Added updates
The following 5 users liked this post by SpeedySpidey:
AlexCeres (04-23-2021), alwaysdriving (03-23-2021), DFW01TT (03-24-2021), JohnC4S (03-11-2021), Litt (03-24-2021)
Old 03-11-2021, 10:39 AM
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Saved for future updates...
Old 03-11-2021, 10:44 AM
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REDCOMET
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Nice! I did the same on my Audis because the honeycomb grill is so easy to put magnet behind the grill. And I plan to do this on my GT4 too. So will you upload pictures for us to follow? I still don't know am I have the gut to take off the bumper on a brand new GT4...
Old 03-11-2021, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by REDCOMET
Nice! I did the same on my Audis because the honeycomb grill is so easy to put magnet behind the grill. And I plan to do this on my GT4 too. So will you upload pictures for us to follow? I still don't know am I have the gut to take off the bumper on a brand new GT4...
Yeah, who wants to remove the bumper from a brand new car!
I’m trying to upload photos, but struggling. Does anyone know a good iPhone app for de-rezzing pics?
Old 03-23-2021, 01:40 PM
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SpeedySpidey
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I’ve updated the original post with my completed project.
I hope it works for you. 👍
Old 03-23-2021, 06:39 PM
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Thanks a lot for such a detail write up and pic! absolutely the best solution
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Old 03-24-2021, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedySpidey
I’ve updated the original post with my completed project.
I hope it works for you. 👍
I was looking at your pictures and noticed the Northtown license plate bracket. I was wondering if there were any other Spyders in the area (assume you are in WNY). I am in OP. I just picked up a GBM Spyder two weeks ago (out of state). Thanks for the detailed write up, very nice. I have been warned a couple of times on a different car for not having the front plate here.
Old 03-24-2021, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Litt
I was looking at your pictures and noticed the Northtown license plate bracket. I was wondering if there were any other Spyders in the area (assume you are in WNY). I am in OP. I just picked up a GBM Spyder two weeks ago (out of state). Thanks for the detailed write up, very nice. I have been warned a couple of times on a different car for not having the front plate here.
OP too my friend... didn’t think I’d see another Spyder in these parts, let alone in my own back yard 😂
Old 03-24-2021, 10:38 AM
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Bob Z.
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Or you could buy one of these: https://www.cravenspeed.com/boxster/
Old 03-24-2021, 10:48 AM
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Wow, excellent job on a DIY bracket!

For those that don't want to DIY, this is very similar (stick on to the under-bumper) and is pretty cheap at $55

https://ccmustangbrackets.com/produc...plate-bracket/
Old 03-24-2021, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedySpidey
OP too my friend... didn’t think I’d see another Spyder in these parts, let alone in my own back yard 😂
Nice! I am sure we will pass each other at some point. Will keep my eyes out.
Old 04-22-2021, 01:02 AM
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Nice write up.
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