Track doods - brake cooling mod (pics)
#1
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Track doods - brake cooling mod (pics)
I have GT3 brake ducts, but was still having a brake temp issue at one track that is hard on brakes. I tried to use GT2 brake ducts, but they extend a full inch lower, and woud simply scrape everything from driveways to speedbumps. The next course of action was to upgrade to internal GT3 scoops. This is (close) to the same setup as the GT3, and uses GT3 parts. The scoops normally snap mount onto the cooling lines, so we added a few zip ties to keep them from falling off, and cut off some of the useless plastic bits as well.
Just like it looks, air comes directly through the front radiators, and instead of venting down, passes through the air hole, across the scoops and directly onto the rotors. One track day down, and so far, so good. They stayed attached and functional. As you can see, the front rotor temps didn't brake 350, but granted, the track is pretty easy on brakes. This weekend will be a real test as I'm back at the track where I boiled Motul 600 a few times in one weekend.
So far, the only downside is with my 8.5" track wheels running 245s, I can't use full lock. With my 8" wheels I have no issues.
Other results to follow.
-td
Just like it looks, air comes directly through the front radiators, and instead of venting down, passes through the air hole, across the scoops and directly onto the rotors. One track day down, and so far, so good. They stayed attached and functional. As you can see, the front rotor temps didn't brake 350, but granted, the track is pretty easy on brakes. This weekend will be a real test as I'm back at the track where I boiled Motul 600 a few times in one weekend.
So far, the only downside is with my 8.5" track wheels running 245s, I can't use full lock. With my 8" wheels I have no issues.
Other results to follow.
-td
#2
Rennlist Member
Cool. I didn't know about this one. Is that black piece that is zip tied 2 parts or one part. Can you list the part #s.
So you also need to trim a little bit of the liner. I guess that extra hot air from the radiators is still better than less air? Any way to punch all the way to the front to grab cold air? Looks like a great path for some cooling ducts to run.
So you also need to trim a little bit of the liner. I guess that extra hot air from the radiators is still better than less air? Any way to punch all the way to the front to grab cold air? Looks like a great path for some cooling ducts to run.
#4
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Thread Starter
Cool. I didn't know about this one. Is that black piece that is zip tied 2 parts or one part. Can you list the part #s.
So you also need to trim a little bit of the liner. I guess that extra hot air from the radiators is still better than less air? Any way to punch all the way to the front to grab cold air? Looks like a great path for some cooling ducts to run.
So you also need to trim a little bit of the liner. I guess that extra hot air from the radiators is still better than less air? Any way to punch all the way to the front to grab cold air? Looks like a great path for some cooling ducts to run.
Part numbers:
996-575-232-30
996-575-231-30
Ambient air might add some additional cooling, but only a little since calipers run hundreds of degrees hotter than your coolant will (should) ever be. Getting 200 degree "hot" air on 600-700-800 degree calipers is like a frickin AC unit right on them There is some direct airflow back as well, but most of the air is passed through the radiator. A side benefit to this is better airflow through the radiators, which has brought operating temps down slightly as well.
-td
#5
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Thread Starter
It's a decent compromise since I still street the car as well. I like it 100X better than stock and 10X better than my ROW M030. When it becomes a full on track car, I'm getting remote 3-ways, but for the price and functionality, PSS9 works.
-td
-td
#6
Rennlist Member
Nice job.
You don't use data acquisition, do you? Being able to analyze brake pressure and deceleration G forces may teach you ways to be more efficient on the brakes - that may help keep temps down, too.
You don't use data acquisition, do you? Being able to analyze brake pressure and deceleration G forces may teach you ways to be more efficient on the brakes - that may help keep temps down, too.
#7
Rennlist Member
Ok enough said that sells me right there I have cut way too many track sessions right in the middle of the action because my car was about to go past the point of no return.
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#8
Race Car
I too got to the point last season where I was boiling Motul 600. I was planning on just running cup car ducts and installing them / removing them at the track so I didn't break them off on the street. this might be another good addition.
Thanks for the tip.
I saw a car last year at NASA Nationals that had a really great setup running cup car ducts AND 3" hose through the front trunk area, through the tub and directly onto a backing plate on the rotor. However I'm not going to be drilling holes in my tub anytime soon so this looks like a better solution.
Andy
p.s. That wheel well is supposed to be silver just like the rest of the car
Thanks for the tip.
I saw a car last year at NASA Nationals that had a really great setup running cup car ducts AND 3" hose through the front trunk area, through the tub and directly onto a backing plate on the rotor. However I'm not going to be drilling holes in my tub anytime soon so this looks like a better solution.
Andy
p.s. That wheel well is supposed to be silver just like the rest of the car
#9
Rennlist Member
I'm surprised at the brake overheating issues. I used to have them on my '87 track car, but have never had any hint of them on my 996 even at CMP, which is very hard on brakes. Perhaps it's a pad issue - which pad are you using? Some pads seem to transfer more heat to the calipers than others. Also, as one poster suggested, it could be an issue of technique. No one wants to hear that, of course, but it's definitely something you may want to look into.
#10
Race Car
I'm surprised at the brake overheating issues. I used to have them on my '87 track car, but have never had any hint of them on my 996 even at CMP, which is very hard on brakes. Perhaps it's a pad issue - which pad are you using? Some pads seem to transfer more heat to the calipers than others. Also, as one poster suggested, it could be an issue of technique. No one wants to hear that, of course, but it's definitely something you may want to look into.
However if this cooling mod is effective and doesn't take much money or effort I don't see how more cooling will hurt anything.
Andy
#11
Rennlist Member
Agreed. And it sounds like the items you listed could all work together to lead to some overheating. It still might make some sense to have another experienced driver ride with you during your next track event to make sure there aren't any issues with technique. I did this several years ago and found it worthwhile. In general, I always try to get another instructor to ride with me once during a track weekend - always nice to get another perspective.
#12
Sorry for the off-topic. I just had to ask since I saw the setup and it seems you're at the border of street and full-time track, especially since you're having brake cooling problems.
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Of course, the issue may still be technique, but assuming that I'm not a retard (all the time) the overheating issue still had to be addressed. The overheating problem primarily manifests itself on one particular track with 5 heavy braking zones with little cooling time - this track is notorious for killing brakes. Compounding the problem was also switching to more agressive pads (PFC 01/06/07) from Pagids.
It still might make some sense to have another experienced driver ride with you during your next track event to make sure there aren't any issues with technique
-td
#14
Ironman 140.6
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You could also try the cup brake ducts. They will collect more cooling air than the GT3 ducts. They have worked very well on my 986 and I don't have issues with them draging over curbs on the street.
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