I have excessive battery discharge.
#1
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I am going to use Clark's Excessive Battery Discharge diagnostic suggestion of hooking up a multimeter to the battery and pulling all of the fuses and relays (one by one). Anyone done this with success? Any other tips? Thanks. Michael
Last edited by UncleMaz; 05-29-2007 at 08:52 PM.
#2
Hey Man
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Originally Posted by Ninefofo
I am going to use Clark's Excessive Battery Discharge diagnostic suggestion of hooking up a multimeter to the battery and pulling all of the fuses and relays (one by one). Anyone done this with success? Any other tips? Thanks. Michael
#3
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Thanks Steve.
#5
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I wish they had a pill to get rid of this parasite.
A couple of questions: What number should I sent the digital amp meter at the battery? Also, what is the best way to test non-fused items (e.g. alternator, etc.) with the meter and at what settings? TIA
A couple of questions: What number should I sent the digital amp meter at the battery? Also, what is the best way to test non-fused items (e.g. alternator, etc.) with the meter and at what settings? TIA
#6
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Check driver's doorjam overhead light toggle. If thats stuck "in", it will drain your battery and youll search for weeks for the problem.
When you turn the car off, you have accessory power until you open the drivers door. If its stuck in and you open the door, the car thinks you never got out of the car and accessory power remains until battery croaks.
When you turn the car off, you have accessory power until you open the drivers door. If its stuck in and you open the door, the car thinks you never got out of the car and accessory power remains until battery croaks.
#7
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Thanks. I will check that too.
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#8
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My battery drain issue turned out to be dirty contacts on the driver door side switch.
Indicators were: overhead interior light did not turn on when door was open, could move power windows up and down when door was open.
Very common issue.
And a dead battery
Removed one screw, pulled out switch, removed leads (clip or tape something onto the wires so they don't fall back into the car), clean all contact points, reattach leads, put back in car, replace screw.
10 minute* fix, cost $0, thanks to Rennlist search!
* includes looking for fine grit sandpaper in the basement, searching for a spray can of contact cleaner, moving the minivan out of the garage so I'd have space to open the door wide, etc.
Indicators were: overhead interior light did not turn on when door was open, could move power windows up and down when door was open.
Very common issue.
And a dead battery
![ooops](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon501.gif)
Removed one screw, pulled out switch, removed leads (clip or tape something onto the wires so they don't fall back into the car), clean all contact points, reattach leads, put back in car, replace screw.
10 minute* fix, cost $0, thanks to Rennlist search!
* includes looking for fine grit sandpaper in the basement, searching for a spray can of contact cleaner, moving the minivan out of the garage so I'd have space to open the door wide, etc.
#9
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Originally Posted by Ninefofo
I wish they had a pill to get rid of this parasite.
A couple of questions: What number should I sent the digital amp meter at the battery? Also, what is the best way to test non-fused items (e.g. alternator, etc.) with the meter and at what settings? TIA
A couple of questions: What number should I sent the digital amp meter at the battery? Also, what is the best way to test non-fused items (e.g. alternator, etc.) with the meter and at what settings? TIA
clark's says .065 as a max but with autoranging you'll see 6.50 with ma out to the side.
i just did this and the toughest part was getting the fuses out without breaking them. i did have a couple fatalities.
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