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Wanted to buy 356 C

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Old 06-01-2017, 09:37 PM
  #16  
140.6er
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Thank you for correcting me, meant B not C. I spoke to the owner after the EBay deal fell through. Not sure what he ended up getting for it but it was beautiful.
Old 06-01-2017, 09:38 PM
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I'm still looking for a 1965C in the $60 to $70 range.
Old 06-12-2017, 10:49 PM
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Nice Super 90 if it checks out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/282521713530?ul_noapp=true
Old 07-10-2017, 08:40 PM
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zoomie50
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Nice SC being sold to downsize from 4 356s to 3 http://bringatrailer.com/listing/196...356sc-coupe-2/
Old 07-10-2017, 09:56 PM
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Those leakdown numbers concern me a bit, though.
Old 07-11-2017, 06:46 AM
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K964
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Originally Posted by zoomie50
Nice SC being sold to downsize from 4 356s to 3 http://bringatrailer.com/listing/196...356sc-coupe-2/
Car was previously listed at 2 Shores for $99k, and obviously did not sell. Not sure how much dealer padded the price.
Old 07-24-2017, 04:27 PM
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/122603668962?ul_noapp=true
Old 07-24-2017, 08:32 PM
  #23  
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That green one is outrageous. Side chrome strips really set it off. Fantastic car.
Old 07-24-2017, 08:35 PM
  #24  
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The black Detroit area car had some paint issues but looked like a very solid older amateur restoration with very few miles since redo. Originally Bali Blue. Nice car for what it sold for. I almost drove over to look at it.
Old 09-28-2017, 07:29 PM
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Big Al HURT123
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Just seeing this thread now. Like others have stated I'm also looking for a driver 356. I keep going back-and-forth between AB or C. I initially wanted a C since it has a 12 V battery disc brakes and better suspension. However I think nothing beats the lines of A. I was just wondering what should I budget if I were to get an A or B to convert it to a 12 V, disc brake and torsion bars.
Old 09-28-2017, 09:00 PM
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12 volt was an option but all 356s were 6 volt from the factory unless the optional 12 volt was ordered. Aftermarket kits to change front brakes to disc. Hard to find and expensive to convert to C discs front and rear. 12 volt conversion is also not cheap but very easy to do in comparison. A series are quite a bit more expensive than C series. No reason to change torsion bars. Standard 12 Volt didn't start until 911/912.
Old 09-29-2017, 02:02 PM
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Thank you.
Old 10-07-2017, 02:50 PM
  #28  
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Default '64 356C coupe for sale soon

Hello Guys,
This is my first post in the 356 section, and unfortunately, it's not a particularly happy situation that brings me here.

I have been a member of the 356 Registry since 1996 (not all that long by Registry standards). I have a '64 C coupe #218041 that I have owned since 1997. When I bought the car it was a driver with many overall needs, but it had never been apart and was original except for a lacquer re-paint in 1970. By '97 this paint was cracking everywhere. This was a car that I had known since 1971, when I had my first Porsche, a '69 Irish Green 912 coupe.

There have only been three owners of this car- I'm the third. I slowly began the restoration, with the a plan that focused on getting it to strong driver condition, leaving the paint and body either until I was forced to deal with it, or I went kaput and handed the problem to the next owner. I was hoping for the latter.

There were long periods of inside dry storage, and one short period outside. I finally got it far enough along that I could drive it in late 2005, but then the motor expired (due to a missing or disintegrated wrist-pin circlip). When that happened in the summer of '06 I was not in position to undertake a full motor re-build. Back it went into storage until the motor was re-built in 2011. By this time the paint was in really bad shape, but then again, so was I, so it was kind of a race to see who would expire first. By early 2014 I had managed to give the car everything he needed except for the body and paint. Being in a better financial position helped me to rethink the meaning of my relationship with him, so I held my breath and had the body restoration commenced.

My guess is that many of you here in 356-land know whereof I speak. Body and paint restorations on even what appears to be a very solid 356 are not for the faint-of-heart, the impatient, or those without a willingness and ability to commit "deepest-pocket-funds" to the resurrection. That last word is meant seriously. You really do have to commit to and believe in the rebirth of your 356. I did find a competent shop near where I was working part-time in Peabody, Massachusetts (just north of Boston).

Many, many thousands of dollars later, the shop has finally acknowledged they do not have time to finish it. This is really too bad, because all of the difficult work has been completed very nicely. Essentially, the shop has expanded into major commitments for easier and more financially rewarding contemporary repair work. Actually, this has been beneficial to me; I found a wonderful metal fabrication shop south of Boston where the very small crew of real artisans loves to do 356s. They should be ready to take over and finish the body, starting in November. From there, the arrangements have been made for paint prep, painting and then, of course, reassembly. I have previously helped others reassemble their 356s, but I was not the skilled labor. I'm leaving this one to the best guy around the Boston area.

Naturally, as all of this proceeds, I am getting older and more decrepit, as my car is looking forward to his second life. It is easy to see that he will far outlast me, which is really what most of us want for our little cars. My children have no interest in cars, so my "calling," so-to-speak, is to preserve this Porsche for the next person, who will hopefully care for him a long time, then pass him on again. I am an important piece of this car's life, but that is all I am.

While I would like to be able to say that I completed this restoration, it is beginning to look like that cannot happen. I'm pretty old, but more to the point, more than pretty worn-out. So, I have decided to try to get every piece of the car together for photos to see if there is someone who would like to finish this project.

The good news is that there are no questions or mysteries left as to the condition of the body. Everything else on this 356 has already been done to the highest standards: complete motor re-build, complete suspension rebuild, total brake system rebuild, new full correct leather interior by Autos International (all four complete seats sent to them) correct new German square weave carpet, gearbox excellent, am/fm/sw radio rebuilt by Wilford Wilkes, original German Berlin Talbot mirrors, original steering wheel excellent. The three main gauges should be restored, though they work fine, two restored clocks (one for C, the other with sweep second hand), five German Lamerz chromed steel wheels (5.5x15) should be re-chromed, jack, full tool kit and actual original C owner's manual for this car. Car is also numbers matching: COA applied for. One last thing: I have every single invoice, receipt, etc. for this car from 1969. This includes the complete ownership time of the second owner, as well as mine. We do not have anything from the first owner, a dentist from Schenectady, NY who purchased the car as new.

I'm attaching a few very recent photos of the body on its rotisserie, showing it minus the front clip. The front clip is finished, but was removed to make it easier to get at the inner nose panels. The longitudinals are not yet welded in place, nor are the front and rear floor panels yet in the car. The battery box lower panel was cut out, though it was not really bad. New panel needed for that.

I won't be advertising the car for sale until I've had a chance to take photos of every part that was removed from the body. I have a good estimate of the $$ it will take to finish this car to the level of 2+, or possibly 1- condition. It is a worthy candidate to take to #1 condition, but then nobody could drive it. I also have a few suggestions for whoever takes over from me: this is by far the best and easiest time to convert everything to 12 volts. Also, I cannot imagine leaving the partial flow oil filtration system on the re-built motor, when full-flow oil filtration is easily available. As to the original steering wheel, I personally like the idea of having the rim converted to wood, as opposed to the present plastic.

Finishing even this amount on a 356 restoration project is not to everyone's liking, but given the finished value and the amount of money required to be invested to complete it, I know that my asking price will leave the next owner having a competed 356C coupe for a great deal less than what it will be worth. I want there to be every possible incentive to finish it correctly. If it stays in the northeast US maybe I would even be allowed to drive it one time, briefly. That would make me happy and sad at the same time. These little cars need to be preserved to live beyond any of us.

Oh yes: When I removed the leather dashboard cover, I found two nickels down in a defroster vent. One was 1946, the year I was born. The other was 1964, the year this car was born. A girlfriend of the second owner dropped them down there. The car's name is Bartleby. For those of you who may be interested, the name comes from a Herman Melville short story: Bartleby, the Scrivener: A Story of Wall-Street.

Original color is Slate Gray, Red Interior. Never changed.

Norm
Eastern Massachusetts

Last edited by kwikit356; 05-16-2020 at 05:09 PM.
Old 10-07-2017, 03:29 PM
  #29  
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If you are selling on rennlist you must post a price.
Old 10-07-2017, 10:44 PM
  #30  
kwikit356
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Default Asking Price To Be Posted in Vehicle Classifieds

I fully understand that any car for sale on Rennlist must have a price listed. As my recent post was intended to be in anticipation of listing this car for sale in the Vehicles For Sale classifieds, I did not put in my price.

More importantly, from my perspective at least, is that I have not actually seen most of the important parts of this car for over two years. I have no particular reason to think that any of them have gone missing, or have been damaged, but I want to be certain before I put a value on the car. I have had parts of older 911s that were in supposedly secure winter storage mysteriously walk off, probably because someone else with a car in the facility needed a particular hard-to-find part.

Having stated the above, I will certainly comply, hopefully by this coming Tuesday, with a correct listing in the classifieds. I apologize for any misunderstanding of the rules on my part.



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