Rick

Experts...

I'm hoping to get some guidance on the appropriate value for a car that I'm looking at. The car is a 1962 356 Cab S90, matching numbers, non-original paint color. The gaps look very good...no signs of rust and it's described as a "good condition driver" car.

Thanks much,

Rick

Greg D.

Today's market, hard to tell...

A friend jsut got one for $42K but it was a steal according to him...
50-70K is my guess... Closer to 50 if a driver, closer to 70 if more concours...

Pedro356C

I'd say Greg is right on...

ked

a matching #s S90 cab is a desirable combo. to put a real figure on it requires an expert evaluation of the car + a current feel for the market. recently, I've seen (w/ my own eyes) non-concours C cabs asking 6 figures. it's easy to say, but true - have a pro check out the car, do more market research (contact guys in the biz), & if you want it, negotiate based on the knowledge (& establish a clear vision of your intent). good luck!

carreraberry

I believe this is the car your checking out?

Here's my initial impression from pics and brief conversations with seller (have not seen car in person), although would love the experts to chime in to help us better evaluate as I remain intriqued:

> Current owner has had car for 3 years, very nice gent and responsive, new to 356s
> Restoration work is over 15+ years old, so likely to be in need of some TLC
> Current owner does not have receipts or pics on any of the work in progress from original restoration, only one or two receipts from local oil changes ... I know I would have grabbed every piece of documentation from prior owner I could
> Pics are 3 years old from original Canada owner who was a registry enthusiast.... should not be too different, but I have not gotten any pics of it from current owner... Canada is not California as being kind to 356's :>)
> Color is not correct to build sheet / factory documentation, and also not standard Champagne Yellow - much more rich tone... owner indicates that its cracking in places, and he indicates could be bondo repair work ... my question is whether the paint could crack just with age, and if it does indicate quick resto work in past? Magnet test best way to tell on quick inspection? What would a good paint (not concourse) run?
> Interior and most everything else looks nicely original
> Car was european, then canada, then US .... wondering if current owner went through import properly, or if that's even an issue? ..he indicates he drove it down from Canada, still in kms on speedo, so know it has not been converted to DOT specs..... I had to get clearance and papered on a race car import recently, but don't know if this is case from Canada to US on an older car? Any title or other issues if not done correctly? Any valuation or other perceived issues being Euro vs. US?
> Overall opinion on 62's vs. 64/65 Cs ..... should we be holding out for the later cars as a weekend driver?

carreraberry

At highest end, Autosport Designs has a non-90 65 that is priced in stratosphere:
http://www.autosportdesigns.com/Sale...s.aspx?ID=1365

Any justification for a price this high?

ked

Any justification for a price this high?
"...a 100 percent nut & bolt restoration."
cost + profit jump to mind.

{btw, any 356 can be a nice weekend driver, if in proper condition - remember, they were daily drivers when new - even the pre-As. "all things being equal", later cars are more refined - pick yer poison... or pleasure. & no issues on 356s being US or Euro - only minor differences back in the day & there was lotsa post-delivery transiting going on even then.}

carreraberry

The owner and I met up on Saturday to view the car. I really appreciated that he had the car all set for viewing and right on-time as we had established.

The car was as described by owner (who again could not be nicer), so pleased in some areas, and disappointed in others - as you likely would be for a driver in this range.

On plus side, quick inspection proved numbers matching S90. Engine was clean, correct and seemed strong, and all mechanicals were in order on a quick test drive. Suspension and brakes seemed fine.

Equally, interior and cab top were done right, seemed original, and clean and not in need of much work. Guages, turn signals and most else worked - did not test radio.

On negative side, body needs work. No visible rust on top side, but about a dozen large cracks in paint and signs on most panels of waves - my guess is bondo (Owner did not have pictures of restoration, and prior owner saying no rust / bondo - but ... clearly looks that way to me). In my non-expert opinion she'll need a body off down to metal to do right. All chrome needs to be redone as well.

For me, the complete body off was more than I and my wallet want to tackle at this time.

Greg D.

Body off ??? That's not a karmann ghia ;-) It's a unibody shell ;-) But good call...

Rick

Carreraberry - any signs of rust in the floors, longitudanals, battery box, etc.? Per the prior owner, none of these items were replaced when the restoration was done 12-15 months ago.

BTW...your assessment is very accurate with what the prior owner described except that he did indicate he believed there "may" have been some bondo work instead of doing things properly. He indicated that the car got painted before he had a chance to really inspect...hence the bondo & some gaps that aren't quite right.

Cheers,

Rick

carreraberry

On topside, my non-expert inspection tells me that most panels had bondo in that besides dozen large cracks in paint in areas, rest of panels had waviness to them. Shame to do a paint job and spend the $ without proper prep....results in premature failure - Makes me cautious.

Took a quick look underneath with flashlight, without jacking car. There were no visible signs of rust underside, however, it looked as I only can describe as "mighty thick" underneath..... thicker coating than I have seen on others.... so hard to tell what's solid / original or not. My guess is that it was not done to "code" and will need attention.

Suspension parts in quick check looked good and cleaner than most, so again, my non-expert inspection on mechanicals seemed OK.

On engine numbers, be sure to check all of the ids as I only did a quick spot check. Sure on main body number, and at least one engine id.

Pedro356C

To check for bondo, all you need is a simple magnet...try the whole body...if bondo is present, magnet will tell...

Good luck...