Gulpilen

Hello,

I wonder if the oil from the turbo wich has a hose 1,5 cm in diameter is a problem when removing the oilstick tube wich hole is only app 0,9 cm?

Will it be Ok, Idont want the choke the turbo with poor drainage.

A picture to show progress!

PorKen

Obs! That'sa big turbo!

The tube has it's own threaded boss which screws into the pan, could you rework the threaded part to accept a larger pipe?

Otherwise, dump the oil level sensor, and use that opening for the drain?


Oil level sensor delete cover - part# 928 101 204 00

tammons

I have run 2 up front turbo setups. I used a #8 jic aeroquip hose to a jic fitting welded onto the oil breather tube for an oil drain. A #8 hose is 1/2" but the jic fitting ID is around 3/8" and i never had any problems. I just sold a car with a similar setup to yours, but with a smaller To4 with the crossover in the back and a custom PS manifold. My old setup was twins similar to what you did, and it created a massive amount of heatsoak into the front of the engine. The engine was really caged by piping and heat.

Off topic a little - Count on buying a massive radiator. I used a stock 3 core fluidyne in my last car and that worked pretty well, but I did not have a huge intercooler blocking the air. That may take some doing to get it to work and run cool. I hard lined my big rad hoses out of stainless.

Some more things to watch are your Alternator will cook, so you can count on replacing that once a year.

Also i got about 16 months out of my timing belt before it stretched about an inch. Thats something you will have to check and change more often too.

Another thing I did was scoops that fed air into the engine compartment and popped the back of the hood up to let some of the hot air out. Oh and get some really good hood insul, and personally I would wrap everything with heat wrap. You are not going to believe how hot the entire front end of your car will get. Even the fenders on mine got very hot.

Oh add S4 brakes if you dont already have them and maybe an oilcooler.

Now that that is over, turn it up to 12 psi and hang on. You are going to have one wicked ride when its through.

If you want any pictures of my old setups let me know. It may give you some ideas and save some aggravation.

Pm me anytime. I have done something similar twice. Both very fast.

Tony

Not directed at you Tammons..but still no dyno charts or perf figures from turbos.
WILL SOME ONE STEP UP TO THE PLATE?

IMHO, id leave any turbo in the mirror.

Dennis Wilson

Recomend another line be teed off the return line and run to the oil separator. Porsche found on the early 931's (79 & 80) that crankcase backpressure interupted the flow of oil to and from the turbo. A dealer modification was performed on the early cars and the 81 had the factory installed relief line.

Dennis

m21sniper

LOL, that's a big assed turbo unit.

What trim is the compressor?

Gulpilen

The trim? It can deliver more air than I can use. It is from a volvo truck!
Thats the only volvo part....

Oil separator? What/Were is that? I need the return to bee under the turbo at most 30 deg.

I would like to put it tho the test on a "plate", later! Im sure It will kick som b*ts at the track anyway! My driving has to be improved - later chapter.

Isnt the "oil breather tube for an oil drain" pressurised? I really would like some pictures of your draining Tammons, jonteh@chello.se!!! I got some Ideas from your pictures before aswell. 12 Psi? Isnt 10 Psi max for the S4 engine? S4 breakes -got them!

You got me thinking- my radiator could be to small.....were in the USA can I buy a good radiator for this?

Btw Im thinking of buying map ecu, any comments?

Oil level sensor - where is that one, and is it above the oil (important)?

Jonas

sweanders

Hej Jonas!

You can buy one of the DEVEK radiators! Lets put together a group buy for the Swedish 928 crowd!

m21sniper

"The trim? It can deliver more air than I can use."

Nah....really?

So i suppose asking you if the compressor map matches up with your rpm range would be pretty much a waste of time huh?

Gulpilen

Hej Sw!

I looked at Deveks radiator but its to exp for me (to fine). Im more looking at a radiator with no inbuilt oilcooler and so. Looked at ebay and found corvette race al rad for 330$? Is that an option (30x20 inch)?

Thats true that I have not dun the proper calculations. I got the turbo - then I started to build. I guess It will work fine with som tuning and if it will be a problem.....to change the turbo is not hard.

/Jonas

DFWX

There is alot of mystery about turbo matching to motor/rpm - don't laugh at the guy. Some people are born knowing everything of course, but most people learn as they go. I face the same questions with my 928 with a turbo already on it. What numbers should I be looking for in terms of turbo replacement options?
I also am looking for a 90 degree "T" elbow (1 into 2 that makes opposite 90 degree turns) to run piping down both sides of the motor (not just one as now) to allow more efficient water-to-air intercooling in the small allowed space.
Mark

tammons

Not directed at you Tammons..but still no dyno charts or perf figures from turbos.
WILL SOME ONE STEP UP TO THE PLATE?

I am sure you will get some soon with the two new twin builders stepping up. The fact is that any turbo or super charged 928 motor will blow transaxles, so I never really thought I needed to test that limit.

The trim? It can deliver more air than I can use. It is from a volvo truck!
Thats the only volvo part....

Before you go too far with your build I would call or Email majestic turbo and get there opinion on that turbo. It probably will work fine, but I would imagine it will spool in the upper RPM ranges. I ran some numbers on a ford powerstroke deisel turbo on a 928, and it had a small turine section with a huge compresser wheel. The numbers I ran on it looked pretty good, but a lot of it was guestimation. It is not a common turbo housing and is sort of a hybred. In the end I figured if it was lightened and the turbine wheels clipped it would be a very efficient turbo in the upper RPM ranges.

Oil separator? What/Were is that? I need the return to bee under the turbo at most 30 deg.

I would like to put it tho the test on a "plate", later! Im sure It will kick som b*ts at the track anyway! My driving has to be improved - later chapter.

Isnt the "oil breather tube for an oil drain" pressurised?

No

I really would like some pictures of your draining Tammons, jonteh@chello.se!!!

Sent them

I got some Ideas from your pictures before aswell. 12 Psi? Isnt 10 Psi max for the S4 engine? S4 breakes -got them!

Oh, I did not realize you had an S4. It depends on the octane. The compression ratio is really too high to run safely with 93 octane at high boost levels and fuel and timing even become more critical. Whatever you do dont run the stock ignition.

You got me thinking- my radiator could be to small.....were in the USA can I buy a good radiator for this?

Fluidyne

Btw Im thinking of buying map ecu, any comments?

Buy a Tec III. I can tell you exactly how to set it up. Its expensive though.

Oil level sensor - where is that one, and is it above the oil (important)?

The oil is a small amount above the top of that opening when the car is sitting still, but when it is running the oil level should drop down quit a bit. The oil breather tube is also bolted down right at that level in that same area and I never had any problems. Its alway better to go into the drain with as much angle as possible, but in both my last setups, the drain tubes were downhill and went to a 90 degree jic fitting in the tube and that worked fine.

Herr-Kuhn

Two K-24s and 8-9 psig yielded 265 RWHP and 355 ft-lbs torque through 3-spd A/T 4.5 liter on a 100F day...literally, the dyno room was 98.5F and we made 3-4 pulls with minimal air flow across the charge cooler. No detonation or pinging with back to back pulls. Those K-24 turbos are quite small (picked to help spool times because of the A/T). With K-26 I expect a lot more power on the 4.5 liter cars...the turbine major is 0.2" larger. Also, as you know a hot day can take a 30-40 HP toll on any forced induced V8 out there. I'd expect to see 290-310 WHP on a cooler day...easily. A little below what I wanted to see, but respectible nonetheless...besides who can argue with 350+ ft-lbs right up the middle? Still, 0-60 was 5.2 seconds and 1/4 mile 13.6 @ 108 MPH. Not bad for a 3-spd A/T 4.5 liter car.

As you already know, twin IHI RHB-6 on a stock 4.5 will make 300 RWHP and 350 ft-lbs on 8 psig and 370 HP and 385 ft-lbs on 12 psig. Proved that 2 years ago...almost 2 years ago that is. With K-26 and Euro camshafts with modest boost levels I expect very close to or over the 400 rwhp range on the Callaway...but there won't be much Callaway at that point.

Tony...I'd watch comments like that one above...I'm not done yet. Yes, you might pull a turbo car to 40 MPH, but after that the exhaust driven turbine really shines. I'd say the tables would turn hard the other way at that point. The only thing in my way now is some time and money (and maybe Tony when I go to pass . After I get past the time issue we will see what a twin turbo 5.0 liter 32-V engine can produce. Let me say the compressors I am selecting will easily support in the 600-650 HP range without overworking whatsoever, and I don't think those power levels are at all out of reach with the right hardware...pistons, manifolds, turbos, intercooler, fuel and ignition management... The limiting factor will be the driveline on this build. There is bound to be a lot of torque and I don't want to kill my trans or drive shaft. I'll probably go conservative on the boost for everyday driving, with dial up from the cockpit for proving the point of what can and will be done. I'd like to lay out the design details for everybody, but I simply won't do it. My ideas are unlike anything else ever done on a 928 and I need to keep those out of the reach of the copy cats...I've already had people tell me they were looking to mock up my manifolds for the 4.5 liter cars off of my photos. I won't lay out my details on the 32V build for this very reason. Thus far the only innovation I have seen is Tammon's turbo cars, the above single turbo car (can you tell I'm a turbo nut?) and of course Andy's screw kits are a real piece of engineering for sure.

Now...I have to get home and do some final body work on my Audi...Friday it gets sprayed with its new tri color Glasurit and I haven't even touched prepping the bumpers and trim...100 hours of paint prep work...what was I thinking?

tammons

The rad I used was a fluidyne 3 core.

It was one of there stock 3 core cores, with custom end caps and the tubing as I specified. You send them a drawing and they build it per. Also had them put in a tap for the bleed hose. I think it was $550, but I had to build a support setup for it.

If you look at their core sizes and figure a 2" tank, you will see the one I used. I was trying to leave enough room to sneek the IC tubes around the side. You dont need that so you could go for bigger end tanks, or a longer core. With the turbo in front, you need all the radiator you can get. the stock 2 core size is not enough.

Seems like it was a ford configuration, but I had them turn up the bottom tube 45 degrees. Both outlets were 1.5" and i made SS hardline tubing for the big rad feeds. I had them expanded to 1.75" where they meet the engine.

http://www.fluidyne.com/index.htm

Jim Nowak

Ah ha, you did dyno Goldmember!!! Since the results were not what you expected, you didn't post the dyno charts for fear it would hurt your sale.