polcan

Hi all
I bought 1988 S4Auto last November.
PO gave me a lot of his bills what was done to the car.
One of them was WP/TB job().He did only 2000km after that repair and was moving to USA so i got the car for $7000.00
Car was in good shape,passed E test and safety but was making a bit of
whining noise .After reading a lot about WP failure consequences decided
to open it up and check.Here is what i find.
TB belt looks new
Water pump is not leaking
New tensioner pulley
Cam gears are a bit worn out

and the worst part,--> my harmonic balancer is rubbing against tensioner
pulley screw
Is it possible they put(pulley) up side dawn?
The big tick washer should be in front or behind pulley?


It does not let me upload pic hmmmmmmm

Mrmerlin

the order of parts that fit to the crank .

1. Thrust washer with the curved rim edge facing the engine
2. Timing belt drive gear
3. Thrust washer with the curved rim edge facing the front of the car.

Looks like this from a side view.

GOOD front thrust washer)GEAR(rear thrust washer

BAD front thrust washer(GEAR) rear thrust washer

NOTE these thrust washers act as belt guides so to keep the belt aligned, IF the washers are turned around they will grind the edges of the belt.

4. Crank damper in position so you can read the numbers while facing the engine..
5. A/C pulley
6. Front belt pulley
7. Thick washer with the counter bore facing the crank snout (the smooth side facing the bottom of the bolt head)
8. Crank bolt.

If the tensioner is hitting the rear of the damper then the tensioner bushings are bad.

you cant install the tensioner arm backwards as it wont fit the tensioner pin

polcan

Hi Merlin
It looks right on crank,have both washers facing as you described.
On the other hand that tensioner pulley screw is sticking to far back.!!!!!
Belt looks straight .Can i send you pictures via e mail? it is not letting me upload them here
Thx

the flyin' scotsman

is the bolt too long?.........send pics to me if you want

polcan

Hi
need your e mail
I don't think bolt is too long,i think PO put washers opposite side
Thx

Bill Ball

I made this very mistake once. There is a spacer that SHOULD go on the tensioner pin, shown as part 32 below. It can fall off during belt removal, AND if not noticed till later can end up back in the wrong place. I thought it looked like it belonged on the tensioner roller assembly (It fit perfectly on the bolt), I think under the bolt head (not sure). The roller assembly drawing confused me - you need to study it and the part names closely and not put this "extra" washer there. Got exactly the same rubbing you did until I found my error.

Mrmerlin

check your RL e mail

928 at last

If you become a member, you can do a lot of things you can't as a user.
Looks like you're local. If you want me to have a look, let me know.

the flyin' scotsman

IF the washer that Bill identified is missing let us know......many have old OEM tensioners in the parts bin after installing the Porkensioner

polcan

Thx all
In my opinion washers on bolt #5 were backwords.I.m talking about bolt #5 and washer #4 that is on the other side of pulley.On my tensioner tick washer is on the outside .I believe washers #4 and #6 were flipped.They must not be the some thickness.
I.m in Aurora Ontario ,any locals can help ?
Thx again

Mrmerlin

pictures of the offending washer,

This washer needs to be moved from the front of the stack to the back,

The bolt should be replaced ,

and damper should have a some paint sprayed on it to protect it from corrosion.

A new belt should also be fitted

Also measure the width of the belt as it appears that the belt teeth have also been worn down on the front edge,
though the thrust washer appears OK it may be wise to replace both of them to guarantee they are straight,

Look at the other parts of the belt run ,
I dont like the front edge of the belt teeth being worn to a step, something else is wrong.
I wonder if tone of the thrust washers could have been installed backwards to cause the belt teeth to be damaged

Landseer

I'd be strongly consider replacing the water pump as well with one of the 2 known good replacements (talk to 928sRus), though maybe not the cause of the belt scalp. And dis/re-assembling the tensioner apparatus with new seals.

Might be best to redo the whole job at this point. Belt will need to be replaced anyway.

Mechanic did bad work. Now its time to rework all of it. Too risky not to on a 7K car. You already made the call, wisely, follow the logic thru.

Mech / PO might very well have utilized a rebuilt or ebay 99 dollar pump. Issue is not leakage, its migration of impeller into block where it performs undesirable machine work.

Mrmerlin

I agree with Chris a new WP and total inspection of the all the belt run parts are in order

polcan

Thx All
Thank you mr.Merlin for posting my pictures.
I.m going to give Roger a call and start all over.
Should i go with Porkensioner at this time?do you guys recommend it?
Salute

Imo000

Do you want to keep the factory timing belt tension warning system operational?