Garrett T3/60-1
01-23-2004 | 05:22 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 13,778
Likes: 5
From: New Zealand massive
Garrett T3/60-1
http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gartur.html
Ok, Garrett T3/60-1 and will put in a stage 3 wheel for $650. Sweet. So should I got for the .48 or 6.3 a/r? Whats up with fitment issues in our cars? Tony G? Luke? Is this the hifi version in disguise? I am not sure, but I thought the hifi meant it was a smaller version. Anyone? Shoudl I go just oil cooled to save some weight and use a timer?
Ok, Garrett T3/60-1 and will put in a stage 3 wheel for $650. Sweet. So should I got for the .48 or 6.3 a/r? Whats up with fitment issues in our cars? Tony G? Luke? Is this the hifi version in disguise? I am not sure, but I thought the hifi meant it was a smaller version. Anyone? Shoudl I go just oil cooled to save some weight and use a timer?
01-23-2004 | 10:50 AM
#4
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,101
Likes: 0
From: Taiwan
I think the 60-1 compressor housing
might be too large to fit under the standard
manifold. We are running a 60-1 HiFi which
flows about 95% of the 60-1. The 60-1 HIFI
normally is fitted with a TO4B housing.
might be too large to fit under the standard
manifold. We are running a 60-1 HiFi which
flows about 95% of the 60-1. The 60-1 HIFI
normally is fitted with a TO4B housing.
01-23-2004 | 01:23 PM
#5
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles
NZ
I'd get it with the .48 a/r if it were my car (and given your list of mods).
Should spool up nicely.
Getting a 60-1 to fit might require some work. A 60-1HiFi will clear with no problems.
Of the (3) 60-1HiFi compressors I've owned... all have been different than a T-04B housing. At first glance.. they look the same. But the 60-1 HiFi is thicker and slightly larger than the T04B.
You might have seen people that machine in a 60-1 HiFi wheel into a T04B..
TonyG
I'd get it with the .48 a/r if it were my car (and given your list of mods).
Should spool up nicely.
Getting a 60-1 to fit might require some work. A 60-1HiFi will clear with no problems.
Of the (3) 60-1HiFi compressors I've owned... all have been different than a T-04B housing. At first glance.. they look the same. But the 60-1 HiFi is thicker and slightly larger than the T04B.
You might have seen people that machine in a 60-1 HiFi wheel into a T04B..
TonyG
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01-23-2004 | 03:41 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 13,778
Likes: 5
From: New Zealand massive
That turbo just sounds like the best fit. So should I just get oil cooled if I use a turbo timer? I like the idea of more parts removed from my car. With respect to the fitment, does it just bolt on so to speak? Do I need to machine anything or whatever?
01-23-2004 | 04:17 PM
#9
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles
NZ951
Turbotimers are non-sense.
Once you stop the engine, the heat to the turbo is removed. The turbine stops.
A non-spinning turbine requires no oil.
Use common sense. Get off the race track, and let it idle down for a couple of minutes.
Change the oil ever 2000 - 3000 miles and the stuff that actually causes the oil coking is removed from the system and only use a true synthetic oil with the minimum operating range of the oil as needed (ie., a 10-30 is better than a 10-40, etc...)
This is what is quoted in Corkey Bell's book. It makes sense as well.
A water cooled turbo is a good idea. I typically run one, although now I'm not. If the car was a dedicated race car, it would be water cooled for sure.
If you can get a turbo at the prices quoted by cheepturbo.com, and it's oil only, I'd go oil only... especially at those prices.
TonyG
Turbotimers are non-sense.
Once you stop the engine, the heat to the turbo is removed. The turbine stops.
A non-spinning turbine requires no oil.
Use common sense. Get off the race track, and let it idle down for a couple of minutes.
Change the oil ever 2000 - 3000 miles and the stuff that actually causes the oil coking is removed from the system and only use a true synthetic oil with the minimum operating range of the oil as needed (ie., a 10-30 is better than a 10-40, etc...)
This is what is quoted in Corkey Bell's book. It makes sense as well.
A water cooled turbo is a good idea. I typically run one, although now I'm not. If the car was a dedicated race car, it would be water cooled for sure.
If you can get a turbo at the prices quoted by cheepturbo.com, and it's oil only, I'd go oil only... especially at those prices.
TonyG
01-23-2004 | 09:45 PM
#12
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 0
From: Gulf Shores, Alabama
I would also consider the T04E 50 trim compressor with .63 A/R T3 housing that they have on that site. That is very close to the Turbo that I have, the difference being that mine is a 46 trim compressor. 549.00 is a killer deal since I paid 850 for mine from TEC.
01-23-2004 | 10:59 PM
#14
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 136
Likes: 4
From: PA
Originally posted by superjet.1
Dont forget to put in the oil restrictor or she will smoke like hell. The .48 trim spools nicely for a street car and loke tony g said stay with a full synthetic no blends and youll have no problems.
Dont forget to put in the oil restrictor or she will smoke like hell. The .48 trim spools nicely for a street car and loke tony g said stay with a full synthetic no blends and youll have no problems.
