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Old 07-18-2016, 02:55 PM
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dogger15
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Default GN vs Tag

I know a lot of folks on here are big fans of GN trailers. I looked into going that route, but opted for a tag instead. I have never owned a GN or fifth wheel which is why I'm curious to hear what the GN fans say about this.

The issues I had were cost and weight. I would have to get a 34' GN to equal the same amount of usable floor space I have with a 26' tag. That extra 8' adds at least an extra 2000 lbs and around a $10,000 premium in
the ATC CH405 series trailers with similar equipment.

My 26' tag comes in around 3750 lbs empty while a 34' GN would weigh somewhere around 5700 lbs. The target weight for my tag is 8000 - 8500 loaded which would put the GN at 10,000 - 10,500 lbs.

My question is whether the better towing manners of a GN are worth the cost and weight penalty for the occasional users (perhaps once a month), like I assume most of us on here are?
Old 07-18-2016, 03:10 PM
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pmason
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Also interested in peoples thoughts on this one, I have had a 24ft tag for the last ~5 years and was thinking of switching to a GN, probably 36ft so it could fit in shop.

Part of my thinking is to try and use the first 6~8ft + over the hitch as a living quarters.
The other part is I was thinking a GN would be easier to maneuver than the tag.
Old 07-18-2016, 06:02 PM
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jwasilko
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I've recently gone from a box truck (that held one car) plus an open trailer that held a 2nd car to a 3-car 44' gooseneck.

The gooseneck hauls great on the highway, but you have to be very careful about it 'inside tracking' on tight corners. Basically, every turn is super super super super late apex :-)

The gooseneck area gives great space for tires, generator, air compressor and other stuff.


Old 07-19-2016, 10:59 AM
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Trailers of the East Coast
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Gooseneck trailers are a great way to capitalize on wasted space, and they generally are much better "behaved". Weight distribution is better, generally distributing about 20% of gross trailer weight directly over the axle as opposed to 10-12% behind the axle on a properly loaded tag trailer. This tends to reduce sway and give a more "planted" feeling on the road.

They are, for folks new to gooseneck trailers, a little more of a handful due to the coupler being over the rear axle instead of behind it; they track more directly behind the truck and you have to swing everything wider to compensate.

Maneuverability is much better, as well as backing once you get used to the different feel. Range of motion for the truck is much better as well, with most folks with standard and longer beds able to get 90 degrees to the trailer or more.

The only two real downsides are, of course, having to install the hitch in your truck (which isn't such a headache with low profile systems like the Pop-Up or B&W turnover ball hitches) and clearance issues with short bed trucks. The clearance issues can be mitigated with set-back couplers to some degree, but we find that folks with a sub-6' bed length generally get very up close and personal with the rear corners of the cab in tight maneuvering spots.

Generally we sell mostly tag trailers up to about 28ft, and it kicks over to goosenecks after that (36ft+). ATC will build anything you want, however.

Let me know if I can help you spec one out.

- Matt @ TOEC

Last edited by Trailers of the East Coast; 07-19-2016 at 11:21 AM.
Old 07-19-2016, 12:25 PM
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ned911
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When I go enclosed it will be a GN with a tapered nose so I can use my short bed 2500HD. Plan to put a shower/restroom and sleeping area in the GN. Thinking 32'-36' overall.
Old 07-19-2016, 01:56 PM
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dogger15
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The only two real downsides are, of course, having to install the hitch in your truck (which isn't such a headache with low profile systems like the Pop-Up or B&W turnover ball hitches) and clearance issues with short bed trucks. The clearance issues can be mitigated with set-back couplers to some degree, but we find that folks with a sub-6' bed length generally get very up close and personal with the rear corners of the cab in tight maneuvering spots.
Thanks for providing some very useful info.

I really do like the fact that most of the "hitch" weight is centered over instead of behind the rear axle. I'm sure this is the biggest contributor to the better towability of a GN. Like I said in my previous post, I'm just not convinced that improvement is offset enough by the extra weight and cost you also get. I went back and forth between the two option because I really like the idea of a GN. I just wasn't convinced it was the best choice for my situation. Besides I am dumping enough money into a new truck, new (to me) cup car along with some costly upgrades, and a new trailer. In the end it was all a matte of priorities. If it comes down to spending on a more expensive trailer or spending on the cup car, the car wins every time.
This thread was more about the pros and cons of a GN and whether (after knowing all the "bennies"), I could justify the cost on a GN upgrade at some point in the future

When I go enclosed it will be a GN with a tapered nose so I can use my short bed 2500HD. Plan to put a shower/restroom and sleeping area in the GN. Thinking 32'-36' overall.
I would probably lean toward the 36' with what you have in mind. A shower/restroom and sleeping area would take up a considerable amount of space.

A 32' GN only gets you 24' for your car. I guess you could come up with a design that incorporated the upper deck into some kind of living quarters,
but I wouldn't think doing that would leave you much room for anything else.

The gooseneck area gives great space for tires, generator, air compressor and other stuff.
That's one heck of a GN stacker. With that much room inside, you could include a pool table and hot tub.
Old 07-19-2016, 02:29 PM
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A sink/toilet/shower can be squeezed into about 4' of box length if done in a "corner" configuration set to one side of the trailer, but a lot of folks find they want some cabinets for storage, sink/microwave/coffee pot room, etc. and wish they got a little more space. By the time you put a partition wall w/door in to separate the spaces, the smallest "living quarter" I see in most race trailers is about 8'.

If you want a 24' garage (about 20' of clear floor if you do an L-shaped cabinet at the front to house a generator), you'll end up in the ~40' overall range.

- Matt @ TOEC
Old 07-19-2016, 04:20 PM
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ned911
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Was thinking of not enclosing the "living space". Just 1 open space.
Old 07-19-2016, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ned911
Was thinking of not enclosing the "living space". Just 1 open space.
The common complaint I get from folks that have been doing that is sharing the airspace with the car/chemicals resulting in some fumes & smells that are hard to put up with, especially as it settles into your bedding/sleeping bag/whatever you choose to sleep on. Climate control is an issue as well, especially in summertime. A partition wall with a door won't add a lot of cost and will make things a lot more comfortable for you in the long run.

My two cents, though. ATC will build it however you want it.

- Matt @ TOEC
Old 07-20-2016, 12:59 AM
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Difool
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I have nothing useful to add but that won't stop me from posting this classic 5th wheel!


Use one race car to tow the other in the trailer. Something breaks, just swap them. What could go wrong?
Old 07-20-2016, 05:48 PM
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dogger15
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Looks like something lifted right off of Top Gear, Caravan Edition.



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