New Member--Looking For First
#1
New Member--Looking For First
Hello All,
New member to the board here. Although I have been lurking for some time and haven't pulled the trigger on my first Porsche yet, I have been an avid follower enamored with these beautiful works of art since my teens in the early to mid 80s. This board is a wealth of information and this tight knit community is incredible.
As my handle indicates, I reside in DFW, and am looking for my first purchase. I tend to lean towards the "purist" moniker. While, I truly appreciate all models, trim, and spec add-ons, I probably for nostalgic reasons am predominantly interested in air cooled 911s with original specs. While I am not opposed to some motor, tranny, or handling enhancements, I prefer them to be cosmetically stock specs.
I am looking for a 1989 (HS grad year and the first one i drove) Carerra 3.2 or 964 w/Targa and whale tail. I believe both of these have the G50 that I think came out in 1987. Preferably in something close to Prussian Blue. Perhaps Azure, Baltic, or Dark Blue since I think Prussian was last offered in 1986. I can be a bit flexible on interior, but black, slate/silk grey, or champagne all are awesome.
With all of my digging I have found a few issues with this classic which can probably be found on any 25+ yo vehicle. I assume some of these are probably more prevalent than others and only a few sound like relatively expensive fixes. Not sure if 5 and 6 were applicable in '89 but if any of you have information to the accuracy or additional comments, they would be well received and greatly appreciated.
01: Watch for leaks in brake master cylinders.
02: Flexible fuel line that runs from tank to engine can rot and leak, even causing fire. Have it inspected and replaced.
03: Heater blower motors tend to fail.
04: Targa tops leak if seals aren’t in peak condition; replacement is expensive. If ignored, this can cause rust in floorpans. Keep an eye on coupe sunroof seals, too, for the same reasons.
05: Engine oil return tubes may leak on 1984-1986 models.Engines in good shape will still consume a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. The engine’s dry sump holds 13 quarts.
06: Talk about old-fashioned: a mid-1980s car that still requires a valve adjustment every 15,000 miles. Major services are every 30K.Alternators can fail in 40,000-50,000 miles, overcharging batteries and/or melting wires. Watch for surging power accessories, lights. Replacement costs about $300 plus labor.
07: Carreras rot most in floorpans and around doorsills, but rocker panels and suspension pickup points are other places to check. These conditions are more prevalent in Targas and Cabriolets. Anti-corrosion measures improved on 1987-1989 Carreras.
08: Hydraulic clutch introduced in 1987 suffered teething issues. Fixes now well known by dealers and specialists, and updates will cure the problem. 1987-1989 clutches may rattle if rpm is too low on takeoff. This is normal. Replace the rear crankshaft seal during a clutch job. The part is inexpensive and labor is minimal once the transaxle and engine are separated.
Thanks a lot guys and if any of you are in DFW, would love to meet up at some of the socials so will be getting involved with the FW and Plano C&Cs as well as the Maverick Chapter of PCA. Please feel free to PM me and we can correspond.
Have a great week.
-jb
New member to the board here. Although I have been lurking for some time and haven't pulled the trigger on my first Porsche yet, I have been an avid follower enamored with these beautiful works of art since my teens in the early to mid 80s. This board is a wealth of information and this tight knit community is incredible.
As my handle indicates, I reside in DFW, and am looking for my first purchase. I tend to lean towards the "purist" moniker. While, I truly appreciate all models, trim, and spec add-ons, I probably for nostalgic reasons am predominantly interested in air cooled 911s with original specs. While I am not opposed to some motor, tranny, or handling enhancements, I prefer them to be cosmetically stock specs.
I am looking for a 1989 (HS grad year and the first one i drove) Carerra 3.2 or 964 w/Targa and whale tail. I believe both of these have the G50 that I think came out in 1987. Preferably in something close to Prussian Blue. Perhaps Azure, Baltic, or Dark Blue since I think Prussian was last offered in 1986. I can be a bit flexible on interior, but black, slate/silk grey, or champagne all are awesome.
With all of my digging I have found a few issues with this classic which can probably be found on any 25+ yo vehicle. I assume some of these are probably more prevalent than others and only a few sound like relatively expensive fixes. Not sure if 5 and 6 were applicable in '89 but if any of you have information to the accuracy or additional comments, they would be well received and greatly appreciated.
01: Watch for leaks in brake master cylinders.
02: Flexible fuel line that runs from tank to engine can rot and leak, even causing fire. Have it inspected and replaced.
03: Heater blower motors tend to fail.
04: Targa tops leak if seals aren’t in peak condition; replacement is expensive. If ignored, this can cause rust in floorpans. Keep an eye on coupe sunroof seals, too, for the same reasons.
05: Engine oil return tubes may leak on 1984-1986 models.Engines in good shape will still consume a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. The engine’s dry sump holds 13 quarts.
06: Talk about old-fashioned: a mid-1980s car that still requires a valve adjustment every 15,000 miles. Major services are every 30K.Alternators can fail in 40,000-50,000 miles, overcharging batteries and/or melting wires. Watch for surging power accessories, lights. Replacement costs about $300 plus labor.
07: Carreras rot most in floorpans and around doorsills, but rocker panels and suspension pickup points are other places to check. These conditions are more prevalent in Targas and Cabriolets. Anti-corrosion measures improved on 1987-1989 Carreras.
08: Hydraulic clutch introduced in 1987 suffered teething issues. Fixes now well known by dealers and specialists, and updates will cure the problem. 1987-1989 clutches may rattle if rpm is too low on takeoff. This is normal. Replace the rear crankshaft seal during a clutch job. The part is inexpensive and labor is minimal once the transaxle and engine are separated.
Thanks a lot guys and if any of you are in DFW, would love to meet up at some of the socials so will be getting involved with the FW and Plano C&Cs as well as the Maverick Chapter of PCA. Please feel free to PM me and we can correspond.
Have a great week.
-jb
Last edited by dfwtrader; 10-17-2016 at 02:15 PM. Reason: spelling
#4
You're doing good research, but you're getting a bit myopic. You might get a car and never have any of those 6 issues, but 20 other ones. Or none at all.
Step back a bit. Any old car will need service. Have money in a reserve fund.
These are time tested platforms, and you don't need to get embroiled into specific failures.
When something breaks, fix it, or get it fixed.
Unless you're going to pay a dealer $50k for creampuff from another state, you will need to be flexible in your laundry list.
Get a PPI, if possible. Go test drive a few for sale, and you'll get a sense of good and bad condition. Pay more for a good condition car.
Step back a bit. Any old car will need service. Have money in a reserve fund.
These are time tested platforms, and you don't need to get embroiled into specific failures.
When something breaks, fix it, or get it fixed.
Unless you're going to pay a dealer $50k for creampuff from another state, you will need to be flexible in your laundry list.
Get a PPI, if possible. Go test drive a few for sale, and you'll get a sense of good and bad condition. Pay more for a good condition car.
#6
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I totally agree with sugarwood's comments, especially his last few points except that I would reorder the points and insist on a PPI.
I suggest
1) Go test drive a few for sale, and you'll get a sense of good and bad condition
2) Get a PPI on whichever car(s) you really like. If the owner, even if it's a dealer balks at letting you get a PPI from someone else, walk away. Things like a leaky cylinder(s) or other problems that can be very costly or catastrophic wlll most likely not be obvious during a short test drive.
3) Be willing to pay more for a good condition car.
4) And, as sugarwood wrote, have a reserve fund for repairs which might be needed in the future or for any enhancements you might want to do.
In the past 20+ years, I have had a 993, 996-based GT3, 997 C4S and currently own a '14 Boxster S and a '87 911 which I bought this summer. That car, while the least powerful of any of the cars, puts the biggest smile on my face when driving. Have fun searching and good luck with whatever you end up with.
I suggest
1) Go test drive a few for sale, and you'll get a sense of good and bad condition
2) Get a PPI on whichever car(s) you really like. If the owner, even if it's a dealer balks at letting you get a PPI from someone else, walk away. Things like a leaky cylinder(s) or other problems that can be very costly or catastrophic wlll most likely not be obvious during a short test drive.
3) Be willing to pay more for a good condition car.
4) And, as sugarwood wrote, have a reserve fund for repairs which might be needed in the future or for any enhancements you might want to do.
In the past 20+ years, I have had a 993, 996-based GT3, 997 C4S and currently own a '14 Boxster S and a '87 911 which I bought this summer. That car, while the least powerful of any of the cars, puts the biggest smile on my face when driving. Have fun searching and good luck with whatever you end up with.
#7
All, thanks very much for the input. That is very sensible perspective, and I appreciate the color. I have all the boxes checked as far as your suggestions, and will try not to be over concerned with the possibility of systemic issues.
Thanks again
-jb
Thanks again
-jb
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#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Do not be hesitant to ask the current owner any/all questions you can think of, get prior service records. Do not fall in love with any car until you own it!
#9
Yeah understood on the age thing. I own several older cars, '34 Plymouth, '64 Chevy Pickup, '65 Mustang, '67 Vette, but being domestic and able to work on them with ease, it was easier not to get bogged down with this or that "might". You and sugarwood pointing out that I was getting bogged down, was very insightful and helpful.
-jb
-jb
#10
DFW, in many ways, these galvanized cars are easier to work on than American cars. If you're an experienced wrench, you're golden. Get a $100 Bentley, and you clearly know how to use forums like Renn and Pelican. Time to test drive some cars and see if you like what you experience.
#11
I've bought a number of classic cars over the years and the best advice I can give is to know the model, look at as many of them as you can in person and take them for a drive so that you'll start to have a sense of what is right and wrong. Spend more on good cars and ones with as complete documentation as you can find. If the car has a history of regular service you are looking at a car that was cared for and you'll probably be in good shape.