Dale Gribble

996 Guys...Carry On.

993 Guys and other old timey car drivers, have a look at the following article that was posted in Hot Rod Mag entitled "When Good Cams Go Bad".

There has been discussion before on the need of ZDDP and other anti-wear additives in oil. Not sure if this article came up before, but the findings are very interesting.

http://www.racingheadservice.com/Inf...ID=-1228096506

There was a extensive discussion over on the RX-7 board on this issue as well (yes I know the 13B and Flat-6 are different but engine wear principles are fundimentally the same), and since my laptop is dying right now, I'll just note that if you are interested the long-term health of your engine, there are oils that have more ZDDP in em than otherwise (apparently oils marked for racing are exempt from the additive restrictions).

Alternatively, as the article mentions, "If running API SM/GF-4 street oils, consider adding a 4 ounce bottle of GM camshaft and lifter lube Part Number 12345501 at every oil change." GM no longer offers a ZDDP additive product but apparently this stuff is the cat's ****. http://www.zddplus.com/ (no affiliation)

I'm sure on the main 993 forum there's a couple of motor builders who've noticed differences in bearing and cam wear over the years. LN Engineering did an article on the subject as well.

No HTwo O

This is why I use Mobil V-Twin 20W50 in the Turbo.

The Stig

I stopped using Mobil 1 recently and switched to Brad Penn 20W50. Let's see what happens.

No HTwo O

What do you expect to "see"? Brad Penn is a good oil. Do you do UOA's? This is one way to "see" changes.

The Stig

I expect to see less oil consumption, maybe fewer leaks, maybe more consistent oil temp and pressure? Maybe that's wishful thinking. I don't carry out UOAs.

I find it difficult to find the correct Mobil 1 grade locally. When I do find it, the local suppliers ask me to "come out to the woodshed" when it's time to pay up. That's one of the benefits of living in a country with retail oligopolies.

Brad Penn, even delivered to my door, is much cheaper. So far, oil temp and pressure has been much more consistent.

Adamant1971

I use rotella.

No HTwo O

Cool. That's good. Keep in mind Brad Penn is a semi-synthetic oil, not full. May need to change it a little sooner. Also, consider doing UOA's in the near future. Pretty cheap. About $20/test.

ronnie993tt

+1 on the V Twin. The oil testing results achieved by the guys on the 993 Turbo site makes it a no-brainer.

ibeaudoin

For very high zddp, I'm using Amsoil Dominator 15w50 Racing oil.
Phosphorus 1424 ppm, Zinc 1575ppm
They also have the Z-Rod oil for street purpose.
Phosphorus 1320 ppm, Zinc 1440 ppm

You can find the Amsoil ZDDP TSB here that shows the amount of Phosphorus and Zinc Level:
http://www.amsoil.lube-direct.com/wp...appet-Cams.pdf

Ian

theiceman

not news to any of us not running hydraulic lifters.

I run Brad Penn and Kendal GT-1 ( bothe are green strangely enough and im betting from the same drum

in a pinch I use valvoline VR1 racing. I consume less than a quart over 5000km .

I personally wouldnt go near mobil one with this vintage car ..

Matt Lane

A thought to keep in mind, the true racing oils (Motul 300V for example, and this Amsoil one too, I suppose) often do not have detergent packages that permit long drain intervals. Great if you're racing and changing oil every event, but may not make sense if you put on many street miles. I know the 300V is one of the best oils money can buy $$$, but is pretty much shot well before 3K miles.

If I did few miles, I would use 300V and a once a year drain before storage. I have decided to use Brad Penn instead, it's almost a quarter of the price and I won't be irritated to dump 11 litres twice a summer.

Dale Gribble

Matt,
Holy **** man, I can't imagine pissing away 11 liters of 300V...that stuff is almost as bad as RE Amemiya Super G @ 30$/liter.

You do make a good point on the use of pure racing oils vs. street.

There's another SAE paper otu there that suggests the total content should be ~.10-12% ZDDP. Too much of it is also a bad thing so don't go dumping in gallons of this stuff.

www.bobistheoilguy.com is a fun forum to read up on, but like all things (Rennlist included), don't flip out about every little detail, otherwise you'll never enjoy your cars lol.

Clive,
Where do you get your brad penn? Valvoline sometimes goes on stupid cheap sale at wal-mart making it excellent value.

88 951S

As an FYI my father sells ZDDPlus additive that is very fairly priced at his company that caters to car restoration locally. The company name is B&G Restorations and they are two older car guys so don't go looking for a website. They don't do computers. PM me if you are interested and I can get info for you.

No, I do not get a commission or anything just thought I would let you know it is available locally.

Radio996

An oil related thread that did not go personal after 5 posts! Nice!

Alternatively, Zincofax works wonders as an additive. One and half scoop right in the oil filter does wonders. Although they keep insisting on misplacing them at Wal-mart in the wrong section...

911RufRT

Motul 300V is much cheaper in the US at about $28 per 2 litre can. I just purchased a bunch off ebay including their transmission oil Gear 300 - shipped it within the US and grabbed it myself just across the border. The seller on ebay I use sells a package including 6 litres of 300V and 3 litres of Gear 300 for $116 but you can add additional 2 litre cans for $28 each.