chancecasey

Hey guys - thinking about heading to the track for the first time in many years now, now that I finally have another car I can do it in. I picked up a 2011 Cayman S about a year ago, only mods is it is lowered and sprung stiffer, and GT3 front - hubs? - or something people do to dial in more camber. Is it hubs?

The PO did some HPDE in it so I'm going to just trust the current suspension setup will be an OK starting point.

Tires are good to go, Michelin Super Sports, fronts still had 7/32 tread, even wear and I just replaced the rears which were at 3/32, now 10/32.

Brakes - OEM drilled showing cracks, none over 5mm or connecting holes, but definitely cracked and grooved and my plan is to get Sebro slotted rotors (only non-drilled rotors available on Pelican), and I GUESS OEM pads, but open to slightly more aggressive pads - however wife will flip out if I make "our" car squeak - if the only major issue with OEM is having to change them sooner I'm OK with that. Car is at 56,000 miles, not sure of brake fluid status. All maintenance has been done on time, including a fresh oil change 1000 miles ago. Suggestions?

PASM - so, just turning off the little button in the cockpit doesn't completely disable this? Seems like even with it off I cannot throw the car around at all. Is that why I read about a yaw sensor killswitch mod?

P.S. I will probably be lucky to do 6 hours of seat time a year, so not exactly a gruelling demand on the car I would think.

Frank 993 C4S

If it's really your first time in many years, I wouldn't overthink it. Just make sure your car is fit maintenance wise, i.e. have your brake fluid flushed, make sure you have at least 50% pads left (OEM is fine), buy a torque wrench and a good tire pressure gauge - then enjoy!

If you need new rotors, drilled is fine for the occasional DE provided you replace them before cracks connect the holes or a lip forms.

For your own sake and those around you, I wouldn't worry too much about switching off stability management initially. If you are smooth, it will not be very intrusive and won't hold back the learning experience. Instead, start thinking about safety equipment like roll bar, fire ext, etc....

ProCoach

What Frank said. Congrats! You have a nice ride to do this with!

zedcat

Agree with others. Flush brake fluid, check pads (oem fine for restarting) and have fun. Are you by chance headed to COTA? I see you're in Austin. If so you should have more than 50% pad remaining. I like near new - more than 75% for a weekend at COTA.

Did you mean PSM (stability) or PASM (suspension)? If PASM, put it in sport mode. If PSM leave it on to start. After warming up and getting a feel for the car, consider off but back it down a little. Even with quite a bit of time in a 987 I do first session of a weekend with PSM on. On the mod for additional camber it is most likely GT3 lower control arms. You can check by jacking up a front wheel and take a look at the lower arm. If it is a 2 piece arm with shims in it's a GT3 type control arm.

photo of gt3 lca shim

chancecasey

Yes, PSM, sorry. I've driven with it switched "off" before, but seems like it's not really off just "lessened"... but I haven't pushed it all that hard yet so I don't know. I will get seat time with in ON first. Control Arm is what the PO said is GT3, yes again. I will check it - thanks for the tip!

I would love to do COTA at some point, but planning on trying TWS a while to get my "track legs" back under me. Big difference in price and availability.

chancecasey

So in the interest of "keeping it simple" and not driving the hell out of it right away, would surfaced rotors be a terrible idea if they were still above the porsched minimum thickness? They do have lips and concentric waves that I won't run with, but surfacing would obviously punt the cost of new rotors down the road a bit.

zedcat

TWS is a great track. Much easier on brakes than COTA! I'll be at the TWS PDS events Jan 28/29 and Feb 18/19.

ProCoach

A long as they finish above minimum thickness, good to go, IMO.

I'm less concerned than the others with a lip at the outer edge or surface irregularities, but those things make bedding in a new set of pads (OEM recommended) a lot harder, so your resurfacing of the rotors is a good idea.

Frank 993 C4S

IMHO, the issue with the lip is that you can't really bed new pads with those rotors and you shouldn't really be bedding new pads with new rotors. Resurfacing is fine as Peter says above.

Hella-Buggin'

Keep the PSM on. It will save you when you bite off more than you can chew. At some point you'll start to feel it intruding and when that intrusion outweighs the number of fear of potential saves, then turn it off.

Manifold

I suggest having a good driver, who you trust, drive it for two or three laps to make sure the car doesn't have any handling evils.