Brake pads for 997.1 S, RS29 or has the world moved on?
#16
Track demands--largely moderate braking (WGI, Mosport, Mid-O)
Car--low (120) hp fwd on streets (B'stone RE71R)
Preference--excellent performance, reasonably long-lasting with dust that doesn't harden like concrete on rims when wet
Skill level--debatable, but lots of seat time
Pad--Carbotech XP12
--many people I know love the 08--hope it works well for you. Years ago I used 97s but the dust when wet was brutal to remove if you allowed it to dry (like Hawk Blues--yikes); I'm sure they've come a long way since.
Gary
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
I bought the PFC08s but man do they squeal on the street.
Not the fronts so much but the rears!! It's beyond embarrassing.
Less brake dust than the Pagid Yellows, I guess that's a plus ...
Anybody want to buy barely used PFC08? :-)
Not the fronts so much but the rears!! It's beyond embarrassing.
Less brake dust than the Pagid Yellows, I guess that's a plus ...
Anybody want to buy barely used PFC08? :-)
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
I did, no change.
I still have the dampening pads in there and some brake goo in between so the dampening pads are more or less "glued" to the brake pads.
Will try to remove the dampening pads and see if that changes anything.
I still have the dampening pads in there and some brake goo in between so the dampening pads are more or less "glued" to the brake pads.
Will try to remove the dampening pads and see if that changes anything.
#20
Rennlist Member
its all about break in... you need to do some of the things ive talked about in other threads.. basically getting the rotors very familiar with the pads. the rears lag in this process, because the bias is always less than half of the pressure and heat under threshold breaking. sure you can get them hot, but you need the pressure too. i do a technique with the rears that many do not. it has to do with jacking the car up safely , and running the car and using the brakes and the accelerator to bed the rear pads. something you really cant ever do on the street, so it becomes a crap shoot if they will bed properly. this technique assures proper bed in of the rears.
#22
Rennlist Member
#24
Drifting
Pretty sure it's supposed to squeal, it's an endurance race pad. Run street pads on the street.
#25
Addict
Rennlist Member
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If you like the Pagid RS14 compound you may want to take a look at the new RST3 compound. Higher friction level and more stable at higher temps. Becoming very popular.
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Your Porsche Parts Superstore
Parts | Tech-Session | Facebook | Youtube
Jason Burkett
Paragon Products - Porsche Parts & Accessories*- 800.200.9366
Tech Session - Porsche Tech & Info*- 361.289.8834
jason@paragon-products.com
#26
Drifting
I've had good luck with Hawk DTC-70 and 60 on my GT3 as well. I run 60's with sticky street tires or NT01's and 70's with HoHo or Pirelli DH's. Good initial bite and fade resistance and I got about 2 full sets of use before my oem cross drilled rotors began to crack.
I've since switched to slotted/blank rotors and the wear is still pretty good. Plus they are priced pretty reasonably compared to PFC and Pagid. I get about 9-10 days on a set before I toss them with about 3mm left.
I've since switched to slotted/blank rotors and the wear is still pretty good. Plus they are priced pretty reasonably compared to PFC and Pagid. I get about 9-10 days on a set before I toss them with about 3mm left.
#27
I ran 08s on my 997.2 and my car sounded like a freight train. On track, I was by far the loudest car in my run group. Watching in-car video I could hear them. LOL. They were absolutely bedded in properly and I ran them an entire season along with a summer's worth of street driving. I really liked them, regardless of the noise.