PCF08 - Squealing on Track
#16
We figured that the old rotors weren't absolutely true, and so pads never did seat properly and off-gassing wasn't consistent. ???
#18
Rennlist Member
You got black flagged at the track for noisy pads?
#19
Race Car
Really?
Read it again:
When there is a black flag, the drivers on the track come into the hot pit or go to their pit. While the the OP was in for the black flag, the starter talked to the OP about the black flag situation and mentioned his pads were squealing loudly.
Read it again:
When there is a black flag, the drivers on the track come into the hot pit or go to their pit. While the the OP was in for the black flag, the starter talked to the OP about the black flag situation and mentioned his pads were squealing loudly.
#20
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks for clarifying.
Anyway, I just got around to watching that HOD track day video in the earlier post. That's exactly what I'm hearing when braking with the PFC 08's.
I guess as someone else said some squeal and it just depends.
I hear it throughout the day, not just after a first session when things may be cold.
Anyway, I just got around to watching that HOD track day video in the earlier post. That's exactly what I'm hearing when braking with the PFC 08's.
I guess as someone else said some squeal and it just depends.
I hear it throughout the day, not just after a first session when things may be cold.
#21
Rennlist Member
Right. See the distinction upon re-reading while not being flat out at work.
Can see why I made that assumption when scanning quickly. Hence my surprise. We can have a whole session black flagged but also a single driver/car can be brought in individually with a black flag.
Can see why I made that assumption when scanning quickly. Hence my surprise. We can have a whole session black flagged but also a single driver/car can be brought in individually with a black flag.
#23
Banned
#24
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Maybe, prob not. I'll test it out though. I'm currently running "naked". I removed the shims from my caliper.
I'm taking a 3-4 week break from DE so I'm planning to put my stock pads back in. When I reinstall the PFC's I'll add the shims back and spray a little CRC on the back of the pads. With the heat, I figure the stuff would just melt away anyway. FWIW, I have the aerosol CRC brake quiet, I'm not sure if its as effective as the goo type.
I'm taking a 3-4 week break from DE so I'm planning to put my stock pads back in. When I reinstall the PFC's I'll add the shims back and spray a little CRC on the back of the pads. With the heat, I figure the stuff would just melt away anyway. FWIW, I have the aerosol CRC brake quiet, I'm not sure if its as effective as the goo type.
#26
Rennlist Member
I've never had track pads squeal once they're up to temperature, including PFC08's. Sounds like you need to pull the wheels and take a closer look. Also, don't just look at the outside pads with the wheels on and assume the inner pad is the same thickness. I've seen rotors stick where the outside pad looked fine but the inner pad was worn down.
Nope. I thought the PFC08's didn't have to be bedded. I put them in with brand new Sebro Coasted rotors.
I drove maybe 100 miles of regular city/highway street driving. Then drove 100 miles highway and tracked them for a day.
Then drove maybe 40 miles city/highway during the week, drove 40 miles highway to a track day on Saturday and they still squealed after session 5 (25min session) braking from 110 to 50 or so.
Maybe i'm braking incorrectly? I'm braking straight, getting my braking done before turning in...
I drove maybe 100 miles of regular city/highway street driving. Then drove 100 miles highway and tracked them for a day.
Then drove maybe 40 miles city/highway during the week, drove 40 miles highway to a track day on Saturday and they still squealed after session 5 (25min session) braking from 110 to 50 or so.
Maybe i'm braking incorrectly? I'm braking straight, getting my braking done before turning in...
If you push the pedal harder, they'll squeal less. Seriously, the squeal is a high frequency vibration enhanced by any clearance between the piston, pad backing plate, friction surface, rotor and mounting ears. Without freshly resurfaced (or new, if specified) rotors and scrupulously clean components, it's hard to completely eliminate this.
ive been doing a method of bedding for over 15 years now and havent had a squeal since and thats pagid orange to black and PFC11, 01s and Raybestos, ST41, etc etc. however the hardest project was used rotors with EBC orange on a street high performance car with big brembos and 14" rotors. but, in the end, i was able to beat the squeal. with new rotors, not so much of a problem.
a little easier bed in process witih slotted or drilled. but ive been able to use both the -11 and 01 with no noise on flat rotors.. did that for over 10 years. street and track duty... always race pads
the way to get them to stop squealing is to bed them from the beginning this way. the 5 x 100mph to 50mph slow downs just doesnt cut it. you need ride the brakes with the gas gently for about 2 miles but on and off. you will feel fade happen quickly and be obvious. thats the cue that temp is rising on the rotor. you burn off the rotor paint , and some of the surface material of the new pad..... then, you hit the hyway. 70 to 80mph down to 55mph and add gas and brake at the same time til you feel fade. rest about how long a straight is at a track near you and re apply. (about 7 -10 seconds). do this repeatably. they will get very hot. allow about 2 miles at freeway speeds to cool them off and that should do it.
this does two things.. burns out some of the binding agents , and wears the pad surface to the pad surface.... if its a used rotor, there is a longer process that mates the two together well.
(note: do the fast part on an open hyway or track where there are no cars around)
Ive done this with all sorts of pads , rotor materials, sizes and calipers and have NEVER had a squeal on the track or street.
#28
Rennlist Member
I think the pagid orange has a pretty stiff/deep chamfer already, and it didnt seem to mater. they would squeal until i did the bed in process i talk about . funny thing, they seemed to squeal more at the track at temp than on the street. but i would think that technique might certainly help a little too.
#29
doesn't work
you can fully bed them in correctly and the cold/street squeal comes back a short time after...nature of the pad. Chamfering does help a little bit as Craig stated, but they are LOUD on street...if it's a dedicated track car and only driven on the street to get to the track then it's probably going to be quiet...
the way to get them to stop squealing is to bed them from the beginning this way. the 5 x 100mph to 50mph slow downs just doesnt cut it. you need ride the brakes with the gas gently for about 2 miles but on and off. you will feel fade happen quickly and be obvious. thats the cue that temp is rising on the rotor. you burn off the rotor paint , and some of the surface material of the new pad..... then, you hit the hyway. 70 to 80mph down to 55mph and add gas and brake at the same time til you feel fade. rest about how long a straight is at a track near you and re apply. (about 7 -10 seconds). do this repeatably. they will get very hot. allow about 2 miles at freeway speeds to cool them off and that should do it.
this does two things.. burns out some of the binding agents , and wears the pad surface to the pad surface.... if its a used rotor, there is a longer process that mates the two together well.
(note: do the fast part on an open hyway or track where there are no cars around)
Ive done this with all sorts of pads , rotor materials, sizes and calipers and have NEVER had a squeal on the track or street.
you can fully bed them in correctly and the cold/street squeal comes back a short time after...nature of the pad. Chamfering does help a little bit as Craig stated, but they are LOUD on street...if it's a dedicated track car and only driven on the street to get to the track then it's probably going to be quiet...
the way to get them to stop squealing is to bed them from the beginning this way. the 5 x 100mph to 50mph slow downs just doesnt cut it. you need ride the brakes with the gas gently for about 2 miles but on and off. you will feel fade happen quickly and be obvious. thats the cue that temp is rising on the rotor. you burn off the rotor paint , and some of the surface material of the new pad..... then, you hit the hyway. 70 to 80mph down to 55mph and add gas and brake at the same time til you feel fade. rest about how long a straight is at a track near you and re apply. (about 7 -10 seconds). do this repeatably. they will get very hot. allow about 2 miles at freeway speeds to cool them off and that should do it.
this does two things.. burns out some of the binding agents , and wears the pad surface to the pad surface.... if its a used rotor, there is a longer process that mates the two together well.
(note: do the fast part on an open hyway or track where there are no cars around)
Ive done this with all sorts of pads , rotor materials, sizes and calipers and have NEVER had a squeal on the track or street.
#30
Rennlist Member
doesn't work
you can fully bed them in correctly and the cold/street squeal comes back a short time after...nature of the pad. Chamfering does help a little bit as Craig stated, but they are LOUD on street...if it's a dedicated track car and only driven on the street to get to the track then it's probably going to be quiet...
you can fully bed them in correctly and the cold/street squeal comes back a short time after...nature of the pad. Chamfering does help a little bit as Craig stated, but they are LOUD on street...if it's a dedicated track car and only driven on the street to get to the track then it's probably going to be quiet...
try it and you might be surprised. the squeal never comes back and infact the only squeal ive ever heard was the EBC orange on a used rotor. that was the most challenging process but i was able to bed them and they are not squealing now, ever. (98% street )