Jas0nn

I want to reconfigure the electrical cutoff I have in my racecar so that I have a switch inside the car (for me) and a remote pull near the hood for an emergency worker.

I've seen setups that will allow for two remote pull's, but not any that will allow for a switch in one place and another remote pull that's independent of that switch in another.

My transponder drains the battery and I would like that control inside the car. The alternative is running two separate remote pulls off a switch near that battery and having to open the hood before each run to turn it back on.

Has anyone seen something like this?

winders

Why not rewire the transponder so it is on switched power?

Matt Romanowski

Sounds like a surefire way to forget to turn it on.

I suggest the Cartek Battery Isolater. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=11466

winders

The term "switched power" usually implies "switched on when the ignition is switched on".

I didn't suggest putting the transponder on its own switch.

winders

Of course you do.....

KaiB

For all the times I've strapped myself in on a hot day, in a hurry to get out, and left the damn switch beneath the hood open...

THAT looks like an answer!

winders

I like the function too....but not $385 like it!

Then again, I rarely open the kill switch.

Matt Romanowski

What's that mean?

Jas0nn

I'm embarrassed that I never even considered that. Smart. I guess I could run a standard switch off the battery and two remote pulls, after all.

Matt's suggestion is awesome - but I want to stick to a simple, mechanical system.

winders

Yes! Why spend $380 when changing up the existing wiring will do!!!

winders

Funny that you would pick this post to comment on and not the one that pointed out that you incorrectly disparaged my suggestion to wire the transponder up to switched power. Do I need to define "switched power" for you again?

What did my comment mean? It means that I have noticed you seem to like the expensive solutions to problems.

Matt Romanowski

I didn't mean to disparage your comment. Sorry if you took it that way. I read what you wrote as to wire the transponder to it's own individual switch, which I would consider a good way to forget to turn it on and lose a session. If you meant to wire it to the kill switch, then that is what I would do and assumed everyone did. I've never done it any other way in race cars I've worked on/with.

As to the expensive solution, he asked for something that would work for two switches so that he had one inside and one outside. You can rig up pull cords and other stuff, but sometimes there are better solutions. I consider this the battery isolator a better solution. Two switches where ever you want them, able to be reset at either. They work really well and keep you from having to climb out of your car to turn the power on once your strapped in. Different strokes for different folks.

winders

I wouldn't wire the transponder to the kill switch. That makes no sense. I would wire it so that it gets power any time the ignition switch is on (that's typically called switched power). The transponder doesn't need power if the car can't run.

Yes, and you picked the most expensive possible solution. Most racers I know don't regularly open the kill switch. They switch their cars on and off using the ignition switch. I only open the kill switch when I am done racing for the weekend or I am working on the electrical system. It sounds like the OP only opens his kill switch regularly because he has the transponder wired to "constant power". Wire it to "switched power" and the problem is solved with no cash outlay.

Matt Romanowski

I guess we'll have to disagree. As far as I'm concerned, ignition circuits only have ignition on them. Wiring anything else with it is asking for trouble IMHO. We also have drastically different experiences in how people wire and use their race cars. Maybe it's my experience working with FC and FF cars, but the kill switch is used quiet a bit, not just at the end of the weekend.

As to the price of the unit - sometimes things that work really well are expensive. Different strokes for different folks. If you don't see value in it, that is ok, lots of other folks do.

winders

So you are telling me that, in your experience, the only circuit that is on "switched power" is the ignition circuit. All other circuits get power all the time unless the kill switch is open?