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Nitrogen shock recharge

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Old 01-31-2015, 03:41 PM
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JPS
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Default Nitrogen shock recharge

So I know I need the regulator and all that. But for the tank, I want to go small. Can I use something like this that is for paintball guns? Is the connection the same?

http://www.hustlepaintballgear.com/p...0EIaAh8r8P8HAQ
Old 01-31-2015, 05:19 PM
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J richard
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Scuba tank
Old 01-31-2015, 05:21 PM
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The best little setups I've seen are these http://powertank.com/products/sfID1/29/productID/438

Not cheap, but it has everything all together - tank, regulator, hose, shock tool, and refill setup so you can easily refill the small tank from a bigger one.
Old 01-31-2015, 09:36 PM
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Dave DE
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I suggest checking with your local gas supplier, as they may sell tanks as well. There are some pretty small tanks available that are intended for use with inert gasses. Also, if you have a 'normal' tank, it allows you to swap your empty tank for a pre-filled one rather than have to drop yours off and come back later to pick it up - at least that is how my local supplier works.
If they don't sell tanks, at least you can find out what type of tank they are willing to fill.

Here's an example of a 20 cu ft tank, to give you an idea of what I'm talking about. I've seen nitrogen in smaller bottles than this.
http://store.cyberweld.com/shielgascyl22.html
Old 01-31-2015, 11:50 PM
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Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
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Originally Posted by Matt Romanowski
The best little setups I've seen are these http://powertank.com/products/sfID1/29/productID/438

Not cheap, but it has everything all together - tank, regulator, hose, shock tool, and refill setup so you can easily refill the small tank from a bigger one.
That's perfect. That tank should last for years before needing a refill.
Old 02-02-2015, 11:37 AM
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That's perfect. That tank should last for years before needing a refill.
Given I drive to the track, and am already limited in space, I'm looking more for a tank that would last a season, not years.
Old 02-02-2015, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Romanowski
The best little setups I've seen are these http://powertank.com/products/sfID1/29/productID/438

Not cheap, but it has everything all together - tank, regulator, hose, shock tool, and refill setup so you can easily refill the small tank from a bigger one.
THIS, little briefcase sized kit is a good option.

Spend the money once, have it all in a nice neat package and forget about all the rest. Others will lament the cost and lampoon the lack of DYI, but this choice turned out to be a good one.

Just too easy, although if a guy has a trailer, all he really needs is a N2 bottle and pressure gauge. Bleed with the gauge (doesn't take much) and fill with pressure set at the regulator.
Old 02-02-2015, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JPS
Given I drive to the track, and am already limited in space, I'm looking more for a tank that would last a season, not years.
If you can find a local resource that will fill those tanks I'm sure it can be made to work.

Like others have stated, most of my local sources do fills via a tank exchange system. 20 cu /ft tank will last for quite some time if just used for shocks, but it was the easiest option for me so that's the direction I went.

I too drive to and from most track days in my car. I don't bother taking my nitrogen rig to the track with me I make whatever adjustments I want to make before an event and leave the rig at home and turn ***** at the track not adjust pressures.
Old 02-02-2015, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by AudiOn19s
I too drive to and from most track days in my car. I don't bother taking my nitrogen rig to the track with me I make whatever adjustments I want to make before an event and leave the rig at home and turn ***** at the track not adjust pressures.
And yet altering canister pressures can be a great tuning tool. Why would a guy spend money on these dampers and not learn to take advantage of ALL the options they give.
Old 02-02-2015, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by KaiB
And yet altering canister pressures can be a great tuning tool. Why would a guy spend money on these dampers and not learn to take advantage of ALL the options they give.
Preeee-cisely!

True words and pure wisdom right there.
Old 02-02-2015, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by KaiB
And yet altering canister pressures can be a great tuning tool. Why would a guy spend money on these dampers and not learn to take advantage of ALL the options they give.
I've spent hours and hours with my shock guy. He has an impressive resume of building and tuning shocks on all sorts of stuff.

What I understand from him is canister pressure adjustments should be a last ditch resort when adjustment ***** and sway bar changes don't get you where you want to be with the car. Only then use canister pressures to simulate more or less spring in a car and only as a band-aid until springs can be changed based on results and canister pressures put back to optimal.

Otherwise they are designed to work within a specified window and should be left there so the shock can do it's job.

When I first went to him and told him I ran my rear canisters at 225psi all the time because I liked the balance best his immediate response was: Throw another 50-100 lbs of spring at the rear and put the canister pressures back down to 150-175 so the shock can do it's job.
Old 02-02-2015, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by AudiOn19s
I've spent hours and hours with my shock guy. He has an impressive resume of building and tuning shocks on all sorts of stuff.

What I understand from him is canister pressure adjustments should be a last ditch resort when adjustment ***** and sway bar changes don't get you where you want to be with the car. Only then use canister pressures to simulate more or less spring in a car and only as a band-aid until springs can be changed based on results and canister pressures put back to optimal.

Otherwise they are designed to work within a specified window and should be left there so the shock can do it's job.

When I first went to him and told him I ran my rear canisters at 225psi all the time because I liked the balance best his immediate response was: Throw another 50-100 lbs of spring at the rear and put the canister pressures back down to 150-175 so the shock can do it's job.
Correct. There are two camps in shocks absorbers. One says use the canister pressure to substitute for spring rate. The other camp says use as little canister pressure as you have to so the pistons don't cavitate (on the order of 50-75 lbs) whenever possible.

The first camp also puts large diameter hoses that are very long on their shocks. The second camp is moving back to canisters mounted on the shock body itself.

I think both ways can work and the first camp/manufacturers probably have a slightly large window in which the shocks work. The second camp has won more championships, on more diverse cars, with more technology, than the first.
Old 02-02-2015, 03:38 PM
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I saw a guy at 48 Hours use a small tank like that with a wand on it to inflate the air jacks on a Cupcar. It was very cool.

Last edited by Viperbob1; 02-02-2015 at 08:25 PM.
Old 02-02-2015, 03:49 PM
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Wand?
Old 02-10-2015, 05:17 PM
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I'm thinking maybe this tank (6 cubic feet model)+ this regulator.


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