Charles A. Toupin

Anyone can tell the lap time difference between the r6 and RR?

Thanks

C.

Plavan

Reviving this thread. Are people still doing the silly mounting procedure that was recommended by Toyo? Or have things cleared up to where you can mount them normally?

Andrew D.

I'm still following the Toyo recommended procedure. Have they issued any instructions to the contrary?

Plavan

Not sure. That's why I was asking. Probably going R7's anyway now. I want to be able to rotate tires.

philstireservice

It is still recommended.



In regards to the new R7 - just beware they are even wider than the R6 ...

Greg Phillips

They are only cheater tires if you are not running them :^)

Greg

ausgeflippt951

Wanted to bump this thread because I've been running these for the past couple years on my 951. Great tire. In many ways, they're essentially a faster version of the RA-1. More compliant, predictable, consistent, and with a larger grey area than the Hoosiers R6/R7. Also appear to have ~40% more life than the Hoosiers but are easier to maintain and stay consistent from heat cycle 1 to HC 15.

Obviously, they're also not as fast. They're a nice sweet spot between the Hoosiers and the NT01/RA-1/R888s.


In looking at the data, I've found that while the RR approaches the Hoosier R6 in lateral grip, the largest deficit is longitudinal G's: they just don't have the grip under braking that the Hoosiers do. This has always been the biggest deficiency of R-comps: proportionately, braking is the weak spot.

As a point of reference: with either a full or radial slick, most cars' max longitudinal G's will be ~95% (+/- a couple/few percent) of the max lateral G's. With an R-comp, it's closer to 90%.


While the RR is a slick, it's more similar to the R-comps in that regard.



In sum: Great tire. I've been running the 255/40R17; I'll be upgrading to the 275's here shortly.

dempseyonline

Collin,

I'll be using these for the first time and am about to have some mounted. Do you know if there is still some "special" mounting procedure and can you explain or provide link to instructions? I saw mention of that in this thread, but earlier link doesn't seem to work.

Also, what's been your experience with good hot pressures and/or tire temp using pyro?

Thanks,
Scott

Plavan

Yes- they still have the dumb mounting process.

Martin S.

I am such a NT-01 HO. At Buttonwillow a few weeks ago (It was hot, in the 90's), I was very pleased with the NT-01 overall grip and turn it, on 245/40/18 fronts and 275/35/18*** rears on a 3,200 Lb car. The more I pushed the car in the corners, the tires continued to be predictable (I am only going to push so far, don't want any off track excursions). I was in the 2:10 neighborhood, Track Config 1, CW with the bypass. I think if I really pushed it harder (faster through the NASCAR turn), i could have knocked off at least a second, possibly two. I have yet to crunch the AiM data...shame on me. But I will this week.

And note, these tired have at lest 20 heat cycles...to the point where I am replacing them. I hope Jack is wrong when he feels the NT-01 are not what they used to be.

***the first two (2) session I ran on 225/45/17 and 275/40/17, the car was significantly slower...these tires were old as well. Adding 20mm of width to each front wheel was transformational.

ausgeflippt951

Hi Scott,

Yes, unfortunately they still have the same mounting procedure. I have a request out to Toyo to check whether they can be flipped Right/Left now; you didn't used to be able to. Haven't heard back from Toyo. I should follow up.

Toyo Mounting Procedures -- Consumer Advisory


As for hot pressures, I've always found my car liked higher pressures than everyone seemed to run. RA-1's, for example, worked better (and the temps supported this) at around 37.5psi.

The RR's are similar, if a bit higher. With my Longacre gauge, I run 38psi.


This should just be used as a starting point; my car really changes over 0.5-1psi so I'd strongly recommend enlisting help with the tire temps on your car. Not to mention the fact that your gauge will likely read differently than mine.

Also worth noting is that certain tracks like slightly different pressures; for example Mid Ohio's infamous RF tire wear can be partially mitigated by running a pound or two higher. Lime Rock also tends to like a staggered (left/right) setup (especially if I don't have the luxury of being able to change spring rates).

Trj

Love them on SPB

mglobe

FWIW, I mount the tires according to toyo's reccomendation the first time they go on the car. After that, when it comes time to move tires around I don't worry about orientation. So far I've seen no seam separation issues at all.

winders

The 16" Goodyear bias-ply slicks I used to run on my GT car had the same kind of initial mounting/use rule. Once the tires had been run hard, you could mount them anyway you wanted. Basically, getting them hot would cause the rubber to "weld" together in certain spots on the tire. If this was not done, theoretically, the tires could come apart.

multi21

I'm not a fan of the RRs for spec racing. If one of the main objectives of spec racing is to try and maintain a handle on costs, why go from the RA1 to the RR especially with the limitations on mounting and rotation? The Nitto NT01 would be a better choice for spec racing (Nitto is owned by Toyo).

Here are some RRs that were mounted on the rims but not yet put on the car. Already had a splice or separation....