oil weight for 944 race / track only car - what do you guys use ?
#16
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Currently using VR1 20w50 as well.
#18
Burning Brakes
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Hmm, I bought at least 5 cases of that Valvoline VR1 20w50 when autozone had the big sale but I have reserved that for use in my air cooled 911 which is my daily driver. I thought the ZDDP was a big issue for the valve / cam / rockers in those cars but I've never really seen people raise much concern in the 944's. Am I wrong?
I have been running just plain old castrol (dino) 20w50 in my track only 944. Last summer at the august Mid Ohio event, I had lifter tapping after running really hard right after lunch but i've not had any issues with that since. Typically, I change change the oil after each track weekend because the oil is cheap at wall mart(13 bucks for 5 qt jug) but I swap filters every other event. I think the odometer shows 150 ish miles, sometimes more, from a weekend of 4 HPDE sessions per day with NASA. Would figure the # will go up soon as I am running races since races get more track time then DE does.
I got into the whole multi viscosity vs single viscosity debate with a co worker / ex "old school" drag racer. well.... Everyone has an opinion.
I ran mobil 1 20w50 in my ducati racebikes for years because they have a tendency to flake the chrome plating on the cam rockers(desmo).
Maybe I shall just stick with what i am doing.. But keep the opinions coming, good reading materials
Tom
I have been running just plain old castrol (dino) 20w50 in my track only 944. Last summer at the august Mid Ohio event, I had lifter tapping after running really hard right after lunch but i've not had any issues with that since. Typically, I change change the oil after each track weekend because the oil is cheap at wall mart(13 bucks for 5 qt jug) but I swap filters every other event. I think the odometer shows 150 ish miles, sometimes more, from a weekend of 4 HPDE sessions per day with NASA. Would figure the # will go up soon as I am running races since races get more track time then DE does.
I got into the whole multi viscosity vs single viscosity debate with a co worker / ex "old school" drag racer. well.... Everyone has an opinion.
I ran mobil 1 20w50 in my ducati racebikes for years because they have a tendency to flake the chrome plating on the cam rockers(desmo).
Maybe I shall just stick with what i am doing.. But keep the opinions coming, good reading materials
Tom
#21
Valvoline VR1 20w50
I'm racing my 4th season on a stock '84 short block from a junkyard, which has never been rebuilt. I changed out the rod bearings a while back and they were all the originals and in great shape. The VR1 oil has proven itself in ridiculously bad conditions many times over, and in quite a number of 944's. I don't think we've had anyone in my region ever blow up an engine on VR1 either.
I'm racing my 4th season on a stock '84 short block from a junkyard, which has never been rebuilt. I changed out the rod bearings a while back and they were all the originals and in great shape. The VR1 oil has proven itself in ridiculously bad conditions many times over, and in quite a number of 944's. I don't think we've had anyone in my region ever blow up an engine on VR1 either.
#22
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I've been using RedLine 40WT Racing Oil. I think it stands up better to the constant RPM/abuse. I've noticed better oil PSI using it as the motor heats up.
As mentioned, with the base 2.5L 944's, oil level is best slightly overfilled. If possible, consider adding an oil catch-tank. A certain amount of sloshing does occur at high-g driving, and is normally sucked into the intake via the air/oil separator. That's why plumes of exhaust smoke result when you overfill a bit too much. I've routed my AOS vent to a catchbottle that I can monitor and drain as necessary.
As mentioned, with the base 2.5L 944's, oil level is best slightly overfilled. If possible, consider adding an oil catch-tank. A certain amount of sloshing does occur at high-g driving, and is normally sucked into the intake via the air/oil separator. That's why plumes of exhaust smoke result when you overfill a bit too much. I've routed my AOS vent to a catchbottle that I can monitor and drain as necessary.
#23
Rennlist Member
On the 'overfill' syndrome there is enough of a school of thought that this is in fact detrimental and more likely to lead to aeration/foaming from what I remember. I'll have to dig it up. Of course dry sumping is available and while not cheap, nor are engine rebuilds...plus you do get some extra hp thrown into the bargain.
#24
Rennlist Member
I've used M1, Valvoline VR1, and Brad Penn, and the best (in my experiences) has been the VR1, by a fair margin.
I hesitate about using full-synth in such a (relatively) old motor, but did use the Mobil 1 for quite some time. And, as everyone here said, once oil temps climbed above 230 or so, I experienced a significant pressure drop, both max and at idle.
The Brad Penn works better than the M1 but not as well as the VR1.
The VR1 20w50 is great stuff. And, it's the cheapest of the bunch! Oil pressure is so much better, even at oil temps of 260. As an added bonus, oil consumption has decreased significantly. After a 30 min session, I'll only need to add a minimal amount of oil, whereas with the M1 I sometimes had to add as much as .25-.5 quarts (IIRC).
I hesitate about using full-synth in such a (relatively) old motor, but did use the Mobil 1 for quite some time. And, as everyone here said, once oil temps climbed above 230 or so, I experienced a significant pressure drop, both max and at idle.
The Brad Penn works better than the M1 but not as well as the VR1.
The VR1 20w50 is great stuff. And, it's the cheapest of the bunch! Oil pressure is so much better, even at oil temps of 260. As an added bonus, oil consumption has decreased significantly. After a 30 min session, I'll only need to add a minimal amount of oil, whereas with the M1 I sometimes had to add as much as .25-.5 quarts (IIRC).
#25
Rennlist Member
On the 'overfill' syndrome there is enough of a school of thought that this is in fact detrimental and more likely to lead to aeration/foaming from what I remember. I'll have to dig it up. Of course dry sumping is available and while not cheap, nor are engine rebuilds...plus you do get some extra hp thrown into the bargain.
#27
Rennlist Member
Do you mean, mid-fill? I.e., once you've already got one type of oil in it, using a different brand to finish filling?
Sorry if I don't understand. But, if that is your question, then no, there's no harm in it.
Sorry if I don't understand. But, if that is your question, then no, there's no harm in it.