Deleted heater blower? How happy have you been with the change when it was raining?
12-21-2009, 06:40 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Deleted heater blower? How happy have you been with the change when it was raining?
Searched the archives and couldn't find anything. I'm thinking of deleting my heater blower and either getting an RSR heater delete kit ($76 with 15% discount, http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-RSR...ctinfo/M05.07/) or the RS heater tube ($225 with 15% discount, http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-RS-...oductinfo/M09/). Rennline is The main concern I have with the first one is that I'll have no ability to demist the windshield during rain races. Using a towel to wipe the inside of the windshield will not be an option due to the fact that I will be harnessed in. Because of this, I'm considering the second option (RS heater tube), but this option might be too asthmatic in effectiveness. Maybe not.
So, I have two questions:
-For those of you who have completely blocked off the heater (RSR heater delete plate), have you ever wished that you had the ability to demist the windshield in the rain?
-For those of you who are using the RS heater tube, have you ever wished that you had more ability to demist the windshield in the rain?
Keep in mind that this is a "street-legal", 99% track car, so my heating requirements are usually minimal.
Thanks for any help!
So, I have two questions:
-For those of you who have completely blocked off the heater (RSR heater delete plate), have you ever wished that you had the ability to demist the windshield in the rain?
-For those of you who are using the RS heater tube, have you ever wished that you had more ability to demist the windshield in the rain?
Keep in mind that this is a "street-legal", 99% track car, so my heating requirements are usually minimal.
Thanks for any help!
12-21-2009, 06:55 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Page 8 of the 2009 rules, Paragraph 1, subparagraph I addresses allowance of this modification.
CAR CLASSIFICATION
STOCK — CLASSES A THRU L
Any vehicle in the stock classes, including “prepared” vehicles, must compete with full road equipment and, with the
exception of exhaust/emissions, be street legal as designed by the factory, capable of being registered for street use in
the condition of the car when presented at scrutineering, and capable of being driven to and from the event. “Euro-spec”
cars will automatically progress up one stock class.
1. Engine
A. As delivered from factory. No modifications after the air filter or before the exhaust headers.
B. Stock, for the year, fuel injection must be retained, except carburetors may be substituted for mechanical
fuel injection.
C. Electronic fuel injection must retain stock DME and KLR chip (if applicable).
D. Turbocharged cars cannot exceed factory specified maximum boost, nor can any of the stock turbocharger,
turbocharger plumbing, or boost control components be replaced with non-stock components or altered in
any way that could affect performance.
E. Exhaust system is free providing the engine meets any local noise limit requirements.
F. Machining for balancing purposes only is allowed.
G. Air conditioning belts, condensers and air injection systems may be removed. Hoses must be retained
and secured.
H. Radiators are free in water-cooled cars. Radiators must be installed in the stock location.
I. The heater blower on the motor may be removed from air-cooled cars. Plates or ducts to close the openings for
the heater flex ducts are allowed.
J. Oil coolers are free.
K. Baffling of stock dry sump oil tanks or wet sump engine oil pans to prevent oil starvation is permitted.
L. Any dual mass flywheel may be replaced with a single mass, ferrous material (magnetic) flywheel. The clutch
disk must be the stock diameter. Suggested substitutions are:
• ’90-’94 911 or RS America may use 964 RS flywheel
• ’95-’98 993 may use 993 RS flywheel
• 968 may use 944S2 or 968 Turbo S flywheel. The matching clutch and bell housing is allowed.
M. Any ignition trigger which uses a standard distributor with stock style cap and rotor to deliver the charge to the
appropriate cylinder is permitted.
N. Valve springs, retainers and clips are free.
O. Any spark coil and CD unit is allowed, so long as it is not capable of changing ignition timing or offer any other
performance advantage. The stock engine revolution limiter and function must be retained.
P. An underdrive pulley on the crankshaft for the power steering belt may be used in Boxster/Cayman.
Otherwise, underdrive pulleys are a “prepared” change.
STOCK — CLASSES A THRU L
Any vehicle in the stock classes, including “prepared” vehicles, must compete with full road equipment and, with the
exception of exhaust/emissions, be street legal as designed by the factory, capable of being registered for street use in
the condition of the car when presented at scrutineering, and capable of being driven to and from the event. “Euro-spec”
cars will automatically progress up one stock class.
1. Engine
A. As delivered from factory. No modifications after the air filter or before the exhaust headers.
B. Stock, for the year, fuel injection must be retained, except carburetors may be substituted for mechanical
fuel injection.
C. Electronic fuel injection must retain stock DME and KLR chip (if applicable).
D. Turbocharged cars cannot exceed factory specified maximum boost, nor can any of the stock turbocharger,
turbocharger plumbing, or boost control components be replaced with non-stock components or altered in
any way that could affect performance.
E. Exhaust system is free providing the engine meets any local noise limit requirements.
F. Machining for balancing purposes only is allowed.
G. Air conditioning belts, condensers and air injection systems may be removed. Hoses must be retained
and secured.
H. Radiators are free in water-cooled cars. Radiators must be installed in the stock location.
I. The heater blower on the motor may be removed from air-cooled cars. Plates or ducts to close the openings for
the heater flex ducts are allowed.
J. Oil coolers are free.
K. Baffling of stock dry sump oil tanks or wet sump engine oil pans to prevent oil starvation is permitted.
L. Any dual mass flywheel may be replaced with a single mass, ferrous material (magnetic) flywheel. The clutch
disk must be the stock diameter. Suggested substitutions are:
• ’90-’94 911 or RS America may use 964 RS flywheel
• ’95-’98 993 may use 993 RS flywheel
• 968 may use 944S2 or 968 Turbo S flywheel. The matching clutch and bell housing is allowed.
M. Any ignition trigger which uses a standard distributor with stock style cap and rotor to deliver the charge to the
appropriate cylinder is permitted.
N. Valve springs, retainers and clips are free.
O. Any spark coil and CD unit is allowed, so long as it is not capable of changing ignition timing or offer any other
performance advantage. The stock engine revolution limiter and function must be retained.
P. An underdrive pulley on the crankshaft for the power steering belt may be used in Boxster/Cayman.
Otherwise, underdrive pulleys are a “prepared” change.
12-21-2009, 07:25 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Mark, I may have found a solution. I had the same problem with fog on the inside of the windshield. I ended up buying a film applied to the inside from Pro-tint for anti-fog. I ran it in a race at Tbolt NASA. Never had a problem with fogging, but while leading the race, my computer got wet again. Doooohhhh! I can send you the info. PM me when you have a chance.
12-21-2009, 07:27 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
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All that stuff is completly out of mine. No problems yet. I am switching to Lexan so we will see. I know my buddies have problems even with their heat. I just rain x the outside and inside and have had no problems. You could rig up a NACA duct to blow air across the wind screen on the inside. I only have about one rain race a year and really try to avoid them...
12-21-2009, 07:37 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Mark, I may have found a solution. I had the same problem with fog on the inside of the windshield. I ended up buying a film applied to the inside from Pro-tint for anti-fog. I ran it in a race at Tbolt NASA. Never had a problem with fogging, but while leading the race, my computer got wet again. Doooohhhh! I can send you the info. PM me when you have a chance.
All that stuff is completly out of mine. No problems yet. I am switching to Lexan so we will see. I know my buddies have problems even with their heat. I just rain x the outside and inside and have had no problems. You could rig up a NACA duct to blow air across the wind screen on the inside. I only have about one rain race a year and really try to avoid them...
Hmmmm, maybe I should just leave the blower in . . .
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12-21-2009, 09:01 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Gasser, Lexan and you will have fog fest. Mark, It was easy to add ( I was skeptical too). Damn stuff works. Rainx does not do much on a cold wet track for fog. I tried the rag on a stick method, not cook in a race. I will look up what I used. You must follow the instructions to the letter. They also make tear-offs for the outside of the lexan with a tint on them.
12-21-2009, 09:15 PM
#9
Addict
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Hey;
For what most of that stuff weighs, I've not usually found it worth the effort to remove. When it rains or is cold... I think you know the answer there.
For what most of that stuff weighs, I've not usually found it worth the effort to remove. When it rains or is cold... I think you know the answer there.
12-21-2009, 09:25 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
I think I was the only car at Road Atlanta this year with heat, my window was clear by the end of the out lap, and this was with a non-functioning blower motor and the archaic SC/Carrera ventilation system. It was a monsoon all weekend, and I was glad to have it. THIS will give you an idea of how useless a towel was.
It also rained on the GT group twice at Mid Ohio, and the technician maintaining the C4 car in the garage next to us applied Dawn dishwashing detergent to the inside of the windshield. He said you put it on pretty thick, then buff it out like car wax. The driver said it worked like a charm. YMMV.
Just curious Mark, why are you so keen on removing the blower? You'll still have to make the same weight regardless of what you remove, although not having all that stuff back there does make certain maintenance items more accessible.
It also rained on the GT group twice at Mid Ohio, and the technician maintaining the C4 car in the garage next to us applied Dawn dishwashing detergent to the inside of the windshield. He said you put it on pretty thick, then buff it out like car wax. The driver said it worked like a charm. YMMV.
Just curious Mark, why are you so keen on removing the blower? You'll still have to make the same weight regardless of what you remove, although not having all that stuff back there does make certain maintenance items more accessible.
12-21-2009, 09:25 PM
#11
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The short answer: no. When I had a car closer to stock and I used the bypass tube, on rainy days and the front window would fog terribly and was not safe.
12-21-2009, 09:27 PM
#12
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Mark, I don't have any heater or blower in my car and it can be a royal pain to clear up if the windscreen fogs. It is not just in the rain. It can happen if humidity is high and reaches the dew point. If you can meet your target weight w/o removing it I think you will be better off.
I'm going to look into the anti-fog film Bob suggested for my windscreen and goggles.
I'm going to look into the anti-fog film Bob suggested for my windscreen and goggles.
12-21-2009, 10:16 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
12-21-2009, 10:47 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Mark, The product I used is Protint New Vision anti-fog kit. I cut to size myself with razor knife. I made a template by placing it on the outside first before removing the protective layer and applying it on the inside. Key is to not be fanicy and cover the area you need to leaving an inch or so on the perimeter.
12-21-2009, 11:08 PM
#15
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You can use what I do. A 12 volt hairdryer. Retail price $15. Hard wire it in using longer wire and use a dash mounted toggle to turn it on. You can mount it under the dash and blowing up through your original derfroster vents. Just fabricate a way to mount it under there.